TDI Misery

[Darkness_is_spreading]

Well my friend has called on me again to help him fix his 98 TDI, I wil list  the fixes to his motor:  New MAF, Newer turbo K03,  crank keyway fixed,  new head  and newer IP  VE (electronic).  Also there is a new timming belt,  new fuel filter,  and inline pump to supply IP


So  first off  the car starts with out hesitation every time,  idle is a nice smooth pur( claky diesel pur),  when motor is revved up the motor takes forever to make power.  

 Road test in 4th gear,  very hard to make power,  I forgot to ask if he could hear the turbo but I assume because the turbo is newer and that it is not smoking like a wild animal at higher revs that the turbo is working.    

So I think the problem relies on the timming of the IP, and maybe the electronic garbage down the line which may be failing.  
I am wondering if I should grab  my 1.6 TD pump ( hopefulyl get a 20mm shaft pumpwith the 10 mm plunger)  and do a  TDI-M conversion.  

Then time the pump  and have the car running,   but do you think there is an easy way to make the TDI reset itself, ie   disconnect the battery for a few hours and allow the cpu to go into learn mode.  

I would like to make this a TDI-M because it is very simple and reliable....  Tell me what ya think

[addautomotive]

Check the catalytic converter, could be plugged.

[jtanguay]

Check the catalytic converter, could be plugged.

yea TDI's are pretty dirty machines what with EGR and all... IMO there shouldn't be cats on diesels... just really hot screaming turbo's instead

[Darkness_is_spreading]

I went to see it last night, and wow  was it running like ass,   the cat is not plugged. The first problem I noticed last night is that the wiring has be rigged 4 times over.  

I seen  splices here and there with different gauge wire using those quick crimp connectors,  he running a 10 PSI inline pump to the fuel filter and then to the motor.    So to get the beast started,  I have to run power to the inline pump to pressureize the fuel to the IP,  ( and it just hit me....  IF the pressure is too high this may thorw off the dynamic timing of the pump).... anyways  IMO  and based on the pictures you will see soon,  that  my friend and his amazing VW mechanic ( who knows diesels    :?: )  will soon find out that there problem started with putting the car back together........      

So now for options,  I did some research and found that  this is the TDI-M  beauty motor,  it has an electronic VE pump,  and I think it will be a perfect project for TDI-M.  

I read some posts on TDI-M  and If I have a 17 mm shaft pump ie 9mm(plunger)   then I install the  timming gear with keystone,  and set it to TDC and then time the motor from there.  

My problem is  how do you time the IP,  I read  http://vwdieselparts.com/ipump.htm,   and I understand how to set the motor to TDC,  then preload the gauge to 3 mm and then rotate the motor until the gauge stops moving(counter clockwise),  then adjust gauge to 1 mm.   Then crank back to TDC and read the gauge,  if it is not with in 1.00-1.05 then it's out,  or 0.86-1.00 for NA motors.
 
http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/jag/vw/engine/fi/timing.html

But my problem is I can ony preload to 2 mm before the gauge cannot move any further,  so on another site I found that you can preload the gauge to 2 mm at TDC, then  lock it and rotate counter clockwise until the gauge stops moving.   Ok then  0 the gauge and rotate back to TDC and then check to make sure it is within spec ie 0.86-1.00 mm or 1.00-1.05 mm for TD motors. If not in spec loosen the bolts and adjust until the gauge reads between the above spec.  

Now IYO  do you think this is correct,  I believe I understand the timming procedure,  I just want to refine and perfect it.

[Vincent Waldon]

The "preload" just makes sure the dial indicator is touching down on the plunger and has enough room to travel... 2mm or 3mm of preload makes no difference... the important part is to zero the gauge once it stops moving, then rotate backwards to TDC... the correct reading is 1mm(ish) from the gauge being zeroed, not from the 2mm or 3mm preload.

Or am I misunderstanding your question ??

[Darkness_is_spreading]

No that answers my question I just needed some clarification,  this should go well I hope to install the mechanical pump  this Friday onto the TDI.  

I found out that the Mechanic was a hacker,  he spliced wires here and there with those quick connectors,  anyways  enough bashing on this hacker who calls himself a mechanic.   I am going to go with the TDI-M swap in the 97 Jetta, I am have concluded that I will use the 1.6 TD pump with 9 mm plunger,   but I wonder if I should source out a 10mm  1.6TD pump.

So if anyone has a decent pump that they would like to sell 10mm or larger then I am all ears because this guy need to get this car going.  I figure I can get the car going with the 17 mm shaft pump and just turn up the max fuel screw. Therefore just adjust the idle and max RPM to limit grenade point,  and  keep the efficiency in the motor.

[jackbombay]

Has the QA been moved/replaced/leaking QA seals replaced on the pump? What is the  IQ currently set at? Whats the timing set at? Have you logged boost pressure?

[Darkness_is_spreading]

Pump is newer to my knowledge but there is not visible leaks or raw diesel smell comming from the motor.  Also timming must be close but you are right the timming could be off.  I did not check for boost leak, but I did make a make shift boost gauge from a 30 PSI  pool gauge.

The more I dig into this car, the more I want it to TDI-M, and therefore remove the electronics crap, ( do get me wrong I love electronics but Time is not on our side today, so TDI-M it is going to be).    TDI-M is also very reliable because you have one control source being the pump and boost pressure to the LDA.  

I also want to get this car off my friend after he gets tired of diesel,  and I will know it will run for a very long time.