Blowby and high revving! Help!

[jtanguay]

burn_your_money,

How in the world do you loosen that 13mm nut? It's on there pretty good like someone has stuck some LocTite on the threads.

you need to break the collar first, then you can spin the screw... i think some people chisel it off or something like that.  just be sure to not hit it super hard... aluminum pump!

if all else fails don't forget my suggestion about that oil... i'd recommend it as a cheap fix.  just remember to let the engine warm up (30 seconds idle even when hot outside and half gauge before driving it hard!)  and in winter, you MUST change the oil or she won't start (ask me how i know...  :lol: )

[fatmobile]

Jimfoo wrote:

How about the residual fuel screw also?

Which screw is that?  Same as the max fuel screw I mentioned? Same as burn_your_money's "This screw"?

what if the rings were so bad that the oil was shooting past them??? worst case scenario of course...

 While the gasses are exploding and pushing the pistons down? Hard to imagine oil staying on the walls while all the gasses are pushing past the rings (on a car with low compression due to rings,... of course because excessive oil doesn't get past good rings).
 I suppose some oil could coat the cylinder walls on the next stroke, when the piston comes up to push exhaust out, then goes back down... but I picture it being blown back into the crankcase next time the pistons come down,... preceded by a big explosion and gasses rushing past the rings again.
 I think it's the gasses being pushed into the crankcase, forcing oil vapors  out the valve cover and into the intake that causes the engine to run on oil.
veg fuel wrote:

I've tried to loosen the fuel screw to see if it would calm down but that didn't work.

....How in the world do you loosen that 13mm nut?

 Oh, it didn't work because you couldn't loosen the lock nut? I thought you tried it and it didn't keep it from reving.
 That should fix it, if not check the injectors.

[jimfoo]

Jimfoo wrote:

How about the residual fuel screw also?

Which screw is that?  Same as the max fuel screw I mentioned? Same as burn_your_money's "This screw"?

It is the long horizontal one on the back side of the IP, behind the max fuel screw. It pushes against the throttle linkage. I have a good picture I printed out of all the screws descriptions, but I have no clue where I found it.

[saurkraut]

I don't know if we don't have a sticking throttle shaft yet.  On page one of this thread I covered: lubricating the throttle shaft, fuel screw, residual fuel screw, disconnecting the breather hose, oil baffle and more.

So far we have pulled the breather hose and we still have the phenom.

The phenom, from what I can discern is a high RPM hang up.  There is white smoke in the exhaust, but we don't have a full blown run away.  The full blast, E ticket at Disneyland run away may be on the horizon, but we haven't had it yet.

If this is a 1.5, their pumps are notorious sticking throttle shafts.

It would be helpful if we knew the throttle shaft was not sticking.

This can be verified by moving the throttle lever on top of the pump (ENGINE OFF) and see if it snaps smartly back to the Idle stop(residual fuel screw).

If is dosen't, apply liberal amounts of WD40 to the base of the throttle shaft and working it back and forth untill it moves freely.

If the throttle shaft is not sticking, the max fuel screw, or the residual fuel screw (idle stop) should be backed off.

To undo the Jam nut on the max fuel screw, use a 13mm box end wrench on the nut, while holding the screw with a long screw driver.  When the jam nut is loose, move the max fuel screw OUT 1/8 turn at a time.  Seat the jam nut and test the results.

Or, reduce the idle stop screw (residual fuel screw).  Pritty much the same procedure as the max fuel screw, except you can do it with the engine running: undo the jam nut, move it out.  The normal idle setting is pritty low.

If you move the idle stop screw (residual fuel screw) out too much, the engine may quit on decelaeration.

If you watch what your doing, and keep track of where you moving stuff, you can't really screw this up.  You can always put it back to where you were if you don't get the results you want.

If this does not fix it, the only other thing I can think of is an increadably dirty are filter, and shot intake valve seals.  If the air cleaner is dreanched in oil and plugged with dust and other crap, we may have high enough maniflod vacuum to pull some oil down very loose valve guides with shot seals.

[addautomotive]

+1

What he said!

Move on to checking for a sticky throttle.

[vegfuel]

Ok, Update on the Rabbit

With the engine off I pressed the throttle up to full speed and let it go. There is no resistance whatsoever. The accelerator cable is not even tight. I also noticed that the "residual screw" the one behind the max screw is turned out really far. What would happen if I turned it in? Would I have to adjust the max fuel screw then?

[saurkraut]

Try lowering the idle with the residual fuel screw.

If you have a really smooth idle now, its probably up there because the prev. owner tuned up the max fuel screw.  A little more fuel won't hurt anything.  And from what i can tell from your description, you not blowing big black clouds of soot.

Normal idle isn't really rough, but there is a little more clatter, or "nailing".
Back it down to where you think its a little low, snug the jam nut and take it for a test drive.

Oh, by the way, what is your oil consumption like?

[burn_your_money]

When you were testing the throttle shaft for sticking you did it from in the engine compartment and manually moving the lever right?

[vegfuel]

burn_your_money: Yes that is correct. I just pressed the lever on the IP.

saurkraut:

 Everytime I start it up it will heavely smoke for about five minutes. This smoke is never nice black soot, but always a greyish blue. It goes away after you let the engine warm up but I when you press on the throttle it puffs little clouds whether it's cold out or not.

[burn_your_money]

Are the little clouds white as well?

That could be coolant in the combustion chamer or incorrect timing, I forget if it's advanced or retarded though...

[dieselsnowmobile]

Sounds like your timing is retarded.  My Jetta's timing was retarded and it would do the exact same thing.  The retarded timing might contribute to your high reving problem.  I say it might becuase I noticed that with the timing retarded, the the engine took more time to idle down after reving up.

[jimfoo]

 Everytime I start it up it will heavely smoke for about five minutes. This smoke is never nice black soot, but always a greyish blue. It goes away after you let the engine warm up but I when you press on the throttle it puffs little clouds whether it's cold out or not.

In my experience with gas engines, blue smoke after sitting for a while is always valve seals

[vegfuel]

Here's the idle smoke

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=96856952&albumID=883033&imageID=5395076

And here is the smoke when the engine won't rev down or "runs away"

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=96856952&albumID=883033&imageID=5395499

[burn_your_money]

apparently I need to sign up to view your pictures. You should try www.photobucket.com

[vegfuel]

Yeah I was afraid of that,

here's the idle smoke:

[/url]http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s191/vegfuel/NatesPlace284.jpghttp://here's the "run away" smoke, not easy taking this pic with my foot on the pedal. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s191/vegfuel/NatesPlace295.jpghttp://here's more idle smoke:http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s191/vegfuel/NatesPlace287.jpghttp://