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#15
by
tSoG-84bit
on 05 Mar, 2007 12:55
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From what I can recall it does NOT have the Y connector from air intake box to valve cover. I am damn near positive it didn't. fortunately we dropped it off but he won't be getting to it until tomorrow at the soonest. Unfortunately it isn't a local place for me, and I don't have the number. I will be making a few phone calls tonight. thanks to you folks.
tSoG
<update>
due to the fact that I am two hours away I can't go pick it up to take it somewhere else, so I called my dad to see what his thoughts were. I guess he has a history with this guy and he wants to trust him, and wants nothing to do with calling him out or taking it somewhere else. I found a picture of the engine compartment from the previous owner. If I can figure out how to post an image that will get added. Since I am in college and my dad is pretty much footing the bill 'til I can afford to pay him back there isn't much I can do to other than not have my car for 6 months, or take it to this guy.
no luck with the picture, I have to get to class, and don't have photobucket yet. upload something for you all later.
thanks again everyone for your input
</update>
here is the engine bay. from this image it appears that the Y connector and hose to the block is NOT installed, correct?
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#16
by
tSoG-84bit
on 05 Mar, 2007 16:11
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Sorry for double posting, but I got a picture uploaded and added it to my last post.
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#17
by
somolovitch3
on 06 Mar, 2007 08:17
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All of the above is good.......My 81 NA 1.6 Diesel ran away to the point of installing a cut-out switch on the shifter. After having the IP rebuilt, it does not do it any more, and it still uses a quart of oil every 50 or so miles. Can you say massive crankcase blow by? (I am talking a 1/4 inch of oil in bottom of air cleaner box.) The pump lower mounting lug had busted off, alowing way to much side trust on the brearing, wallowing out the body of the pump. New pump body, all the other good stuff for to rebuild to specs, and yes a few fists full of $$$= good pump, no runaway, better milage, and still lousey MPQ. I tried the drip into can trick, did not make any difference.
Sure, try everything you can for as least money as you can...Plan for to rebuild/buy new pump. BTW, I ran a '79 1.5L Diesel Rabbit under similer conditions (except for the oil consumption) for 3 yrs without doing anything but adding a cut-off switch. And got 44 MPG in town and 55 MPG on the highway.
Who knows?
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#18
by
tSoG-84bit
on 06 Mar, 2007 12:51
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thanks somolovitch, but can you explain the cut out switch a little more in depth. I am not sure I understand what you mean. I guess I am going through with it, and hoping that he does what he says he is going to do, and that it works... wish me and the rabbit luck I guess.
tSoG
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#19
by
burn_your_money
on 06 Mar, 2007 13:32
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I'll assume that the cut off switch he is referring to is hooked up to stop solenoid power so that you can cut the power to the stop solenoid on the pump thereby cutting off the fuel supply.
Turning the car off should have this same affect though
Where abouts do you live?
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#20
by
RabbitJockey
on 06 Mar, 2007 14:45
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have you tried putting a cam splash guard in?
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#21
by
tSoG-84bit
on 06 Mar, 2007 16:03
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the car currently resides in North West Pennsylvania. Weather has been irrelevant to the runaway, other than being cold. It ran fine for 700 miles on the trip back North, when we bought it. It got cold, and runs away every trip after... about 30 miles. Car continues to run with key in OFF position. Engine temp has shown no relevance. Car ran away at low and high temps, in 0*F and 40*F, snow, rain, and dry. I am unsure of a cam splash guard being installed, but I can say that one hasn't been installed in the short time it spent in NW PA. How does a cutoff switch stop runaway when turning the key off will not? Please forgive my lack of understanding, but I would like to, if you don't mind explaining.
tSoG
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#22
by
burn_your_money
on 06 Mar, 2007 16:26
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I'm also not grasping how a shut off switch on the pump will help with runaways... :?:
What color is the smoke when it's running away?
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#23
by
tSoG-84bit
on 06 Mar, 2007 17:28
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well, if you classify smoke into three categories (black, white, and blue) I would put this in the white with a little bit of blue. I wouldn't know how much blue constitutes blue smoke, but, to me at least, it doesn't seem like this compares to an old gasser starting up with a puff of blue.
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#24
by
itzdshtz
on 06 Mar, 2007 18:27
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The hose that is on your car is the old style. I don't think that a cut out switch will work in this case, I had a customer that had a runaway, she turned the key off but the engine kept on running. She got out of the car and watched the engine destroy itself.
If you can, install a splash guard in there like Trev0rbr suggested and try to test run it without the hose on the valve cover.
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#25
by
burn_your_money
on 07 Mar, 2007 02:16
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try to test run it without the hose on the valve cover.
Use a catch can, it'll be messy
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#26
by
tSoG-84bit
on 08 Mar, 2007 23:06
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I finally should have some free time next week, enough to go back PA and check up on things. Thank you everyone for your input. I will update when I find something out.
tSoG
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#27
by
itzdshtz
on 15 Mar, 2007 20:56
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#28
by
jtanguay
on 16 Mar, 2007 05:18
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try to remember that if your engine starts running away to high hell the best thing to do is to leave it in gear and dump the clutch... otherwise kiss your motor goodbye! just some useful information in the event this happens to you and you panic (which usually only happens to women..)
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#29
by
burn_your_money
on 16 Mar, 2007 12:25
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The last runaway diesel I bought was left to rev itself to death, I got a good deal on it, considering it has a freshly rebuild tranny
