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Author Topic: cold start lever  (Read 2902 times)

November 17, 2004, 11:41:09 am

gropar

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cold start lever
« on: November 17, 2004, 11:41:09 am »
The cold start lever tends to be pulled back in when the engine is cold, and will shure be  if I step on the gas pedal...

When engine is hot, it is not as bad, yet I always hear a pretty load succion­/vibration noise coming out of that very same lever. Especialy at highway speed.

I had the pumps seals changed (could not afford a complete rebuilt  :roll:  ) and it is worst since then.

Any idea of what could be the problem?


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Reply #1November 17, 2004, 06:44:03 pm

jtanguay

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mine does the same thing
« Reply #1 on: November 17, 2004, 06:44:03 pm »
mine makes noise too, not sure if thats common or not.  But I do know that it is working properly (without cold start out my engine takes a few tries starting it before it will start properly)


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Reply #2November 17, 2004, 07:01:57 pm

QuickTD

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cold start lever
« Reply #2 on: November 17, 2004, 07:01:57 pm »
The cable will buzz and vibrate itself in if it makes contact with vibrating parts under the hood. The last cable attachment point on the engine should be the clip at the top of the water outlet on the front of the cylinder head. The remainder of the cable should not touch anything until it enters the firewall. If it touches anything re-rout it. Do not tie it to the clutch or throttle cables, this will make the problem worse.

Reply #3November 23, 2004, 07:47:46 pm

gropar

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cold start lever
« Reply #3 on: November 23, 2004, 07:47:46 pm »
thank you QuickTD : I undid a fwe clips here and there along the cable and it is less noisy.

Not silent yet -- I gess I'll have to re-route the thing  :x  --, but bether; or less-worst.

Still pulls in with strenght, though. But I gess it is an other problem...
1.9 IDI,
minimalist exhaust system; soon big FMIC and 15 psi boost.

Reply #4November 23, 2004, 10:18:29 pm

QuickTD

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cold start lever
« Reply #4 on: November 23, 2004, 10:18:29 pm »
The friction/detent mechanism for the cold start handle is located in the dashboard end of the cable. Replacement of the cable would probably stop it from creeping back in. Considering the amount of time the cold start handle is used I'd just live with it, the cable is fairly expensive.

Reply #5November 24, 2004, 06:43:53 am

Dr. Diesel

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cold start lever
« Reply #5 on: November 24, 2004, 06:43:53 am »
the other thing, depending on the model of pump, is that the cable may not be rigged properly. That is to say that it might not be pulling the arm all the way back into it's cold-start detent. You may have to adjust it where the cable is clamped onto the arm. Try loosening the lock screw, pull the cable out, and see if you can move the arm all the way to the driver side with a long screwdriver. You should be able to feel it 'click' into a detent and it should stay there while the engine runs. If it does, then I think the cable isn't rigged properly.
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Reply #6November 24, 2004, 09:17:36 am

gropar

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cold start lever
« Reply #6 on: November 24, 2004, 09:17:36 am »
QuickTD : live with it is not an option I like : the second I stop pulling on the handle, it goes straight back in the dashboard. Right now it is not that bad, but I prefer not to think of how it is going to be in january/febuary with -30 degrees. (Yet I will not spend 100$ on that thing...)

Dr. Diesel : I will shure try that!

The handle used to work great until a partial rebuilt AND the reinstallation of the pumpo (and cable). Maybe the seals replacement is not the cause of all this and that the cable adjustment could be!
I do feel the notches, but the action is not as clean as before.

I think I will first loosen the tightening screw, then pull the lever towards the drivers side, the pull the handle and finally lock the cable to the lever. That way, I will be shure that the pulled position of the handle matches the advanced position of the Timing advance lever.


Thank you all for the great tips!
I will soon work on this and give you a report on the results.
1.9 IDI,
minimalist exhaust system; soon big FMIC and 15 psi boost.

 

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