Author Topic: Water pump enquiry! (Read 7429 times)

MontanaGTD · « **on:** January 17, 2007, 04:58:21 am »

Ok in replacing the water pump it looks like the alternator retainer bracket has to come off - along with that the moving of the fuel pump first - is this right or am I just being thick?

jtanguay · « **Reply #1 on:** January 17, 2007, 05:17:15 am »

hmmm i'd consult the manual, but from general examination, i'd assume that the power steering pump would come off, and that the water pump could be removed from beneath the car. i fail to see why the alternator has to come off, but then again.. i've never change the water pump on a diesel before.

wolfsburgnut · « **Reply #2 on:** January 17, 2007, 06:19:13 am »

Everything including the PS pump and alternator have to come off. That way you can get the WP housing off too and that makes getting the WP out of the housing a lot easier.

Peter

burn_your_money · « **Reply #3 on:** January 17, 2007, 03:39:20 pm »

Definitely take the housing off with the pump. Those bolts that hold the pump and housing together tend to break so you may as well get two birds at once and take them off as one piece. I don't own any of those fancy C or S wrenches, I just use a swivel on my ratchet and eventually it comes off. It is defiantly a horrible experience though

PS, alt, and alt bracket need to come off. I also have yet to work on a car with AC so I can't comment, although I'd imagine it needs to come off too

jtanguay · « **Reply #4 on:** January 17, 2007, 04:15:49 pm »

man if the a/c bracket has to come off... omfg!!!!!!!! i removed the one off my parts car and man... what a PITA!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the guy said the a/c worked great so i've conserved the a/c lines for now.... still in the process of disassembling bits and pieces... when the weather gets warmer out she comes!

wolfsburgnut · « **Reply #5 on:** January 17, 2007, 04:29:14 pm »

To get the bolts out that hold the WP to the housing I trick I use is to get some pentetrating oil such as WD-40 or some candle wax and use a propane torch to heat up the bolts so the oil/wax goes into the threads. ONLY USE A 1/4" RATCHET. Otherwise you will bust all the bolts off, so go slow and steady. Alternatively, I know that a local parts store, Altrom, sells the housing and WP altogether for under 100 bucks Can. If you can find a similar deal over there, its worth the money. I've done 6 WPs now and not one of them was worth the 70 bucks I saved from just buying the pump.

Peter

MontanaGTD · « **Reply #6 on:** January 18, 2007, 09:29:54 am »

Mines a late '91 UK car so it doesnt have PAS or A/C!

nkb · « **Reply #7 on:** January 19, 2007, 10:43:32 pm »

i dunno about the 1.6's but my 1.9 i can remove just the water pump itself and the rest of the housing stays on the motor, just have to remove the belts and a few pulleys

burn_your_money · « **Reply #8 on:** January 20, 2007, 03:41:24 am »

you can do that on a 1.6, but IMO it's more work

Doug · « **Reply #9 on:** January 20, 2007, 05:40:05 am »

Peter, do you have the address and phone number of Altrom?

wolfsburgnut · « **Reply #10 on:** January 20, 2007, 06:44:01 am »

Doug, the altrom web site is www.altrom.com The one I go to is in London, and they are the best! They sell to me over the counter and they know there stuff they have 2 former VW parts managers that work there. They also give me wholesale price. The other ones I've heard they don't sell over the counter. You can go to any UAP/NAPA store and look up the parts on altrom's web site and specify you want that part number from Altrom. The price you see on the web site is the price you pay, and not more, some UAP/NAPA stores may try to rip you off. The one in London is on Exeter road, if you want more info I can get you an address, it escapes me right now.

Peter

Doug · « **Reply #11 on:** January 20, 2007, 08:27:59 am »

Thanks, Peter, I am always looking for alternative parts places. I think that some of the components for the most recent rebuild came from Altrom through a local shop. I have seen also that carquest has a similar connection to Worldpac which who knows may be connected somehow to Altrom. Alot of these companies spin themselves off to different distributors to broaden their market. London is too far for me to go but I do have a local NAPA here so I will check them out.

insdtanoodles · « **Reply #12 on:** January 20, 2007, 08:52:26 am »

I have orderd tons of stuff from altrom and all I have done is walked into my closest napa and gave them a list of the part numbers for what I want from altrom.

duffer · « **Reply #13 on:** January 25, 2007, 09:03:10 am »

I've bought quite a bit of stuff from Altrom
(metal brake lines and such)

One thing that concerns me, they seem to
be selling the SAME intake and exhaust
valves for both the 1.6 N/A and the TD
(ME & MF) engines. I think the valves
are made by "Osvat".

Any views on the quality of "Osvat"?

I bought "TRW" valves (exhaust and intake)
and they had different Part #s for the N/A
and the TD. A lot more expensive too.

Doug · « **Reply #14 on:** January 25, 2007, 10:48:10 am »

Okay I guess that I misread your post about the valves. My book shows the MF and ME engine valves to be the same for the 1.6 diesels post '85. Prior to that there may have been a difference? Could that have accounted for the price difference? I have just done the valves on a MF engine. Seems to me that I installed Italian made valves (name brand esapes right now but it is a big one, I can find out if you want). The packaging was all sealed, logo-ized and hologram stickered to convince me that it was what it says it was. Cheap parts knock offs on older foreign engines is a real issue as the quality is often not there. I have looked at some of these on line parts sellers and it seems like several of them are using the same data base. Is that coincidence or by design? I just bought a Ruville rear bearing kits for the car a few days ago from CarQuest (Worldpac) and as I suspected the FAG bearings were from S. Korea and the caps/pins from Taiwan. Does it matter? Will they be as good as the Timken, made in England two decades before? I just don't know. I think that they will be better than the CTC FAG bearings that had country of origin "China" on the box which was printed in Mexico. Are you confused yet?