On all the Quantums I've worked on, the water pump belt adjustment was accomplished by a split pulley on the water pump, not crank. There was also a split pulley on the crank, but it adjusted the tension of the A/C belt, not the water pump. 1982-1985 1.6TD would be what you are looking for. All the Audi vehicles with the 1.6TD that I've seen had the same belt drive system as the Quantum.
Early rabbit of some form used that split pulley shim BS, might have been gassers, or PS pumps, it was something I avoid whatever the app was but I've seen them.
Pcars same bit on that excuse for a cooling system/alternator belt before the moved into the 90s.
Not a fan.
Spokerider, I'll clear off the dust and get some pics sometime soon. If you need em sooner rather than later bug me about it.
The more I think about it, and finding a pic of the AAZ as a bare long block when I got it, everything on there is 1.6 stuff and it works fine.
Crank pulley is different, it came with the AAZ, they made it an actual balancer I think.
I have the AAZ crank in the machine shop now, hopefully the nose repair goes well and it's not a bubba job. This guy has been in business 37 years, but had not done a vw crank before....I am trusting that it all comes down to the skill and judgement of the machinist doing the work, and not just having the fancy C&C machine, etc, which he does not have.........
I had taken the crank to an auto machine shop first to get their opinion on the repair and he declined doing it, said he didn't have the set-up to grind the flat on the crank. He did say I should have the crank checked for trueness after the repair has been made.......grrrr, more $$. I prolly should however. I would think the vw shop that rebuilt the engine [ in 2008 ] would have done that, but it may get distorted with this current machining.
About the new crank bolt......red Loctite or oil before torqueing? Bently says oil, but I see guys are using red Loctite.
About the new bearing cap bolts I just bought.....they are the "new" style, [ as opposed to the partly threaded shank ] with a fully threaded shank. Torque to 48 ft/lbs and turn a further 90 deg?
Also, looking for any tips on locating piston #1 TDC for installing the timing belt. This engine is going into a Samurai, so I don't have the vw flywheel for the timing mark reference. Suppose I could get a vw flywheel just for this, but I have no vw trans either. I do have a dial gauge and magnetic base.
Only use red loctite if you hate the person you are selling the car to...
You can use a clear hose (from the #4 GP hole) with some fluid in it.
Check this out:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=34145.0Works perfect.
If your lucky you can find a tube with an OD that fits into the GP hole. I re-threaded a brass hose barb.
IMHO, loctite is a band-aid for a properly torqued "new" bolt on a properly machined crank.
About the new bearing cap bolts I just bought.....they are the "new" style, [ as opposed to the partly threaded shank ] with a fully threaded shank. Torque to 48 ft/lbs and turn a further 90 deg?
Also, looking for any tips on locating piston #1 TDC for installing the timing belt. This engine is going into a Samurai, so I don't have the vw flywheel for the timing mark reference. Suppose I could get a vw flywheel just for this, but I have no vw trans either. I do have a dial gauge and magnetic base.
You can't use the newer style bolts in place of the older style bolts. The new full-thread bolts will be too long and bottom out in the block... As I said, you should have gotten studs...
About the new bearing cap bolts I just bought.....they are the "new" style, [ as opposed to the partly threaded shank ] with a fully threaded shank. Torque to 48 ft/lbs and turn a further 90 deg?
Also, looking for any tips on locating piston #1 TDC for installing the timing belt. This engine is going into a Samurai, so I don't have the vw flywheel for the timing mark reference. Suppose I could get a vw flywheel just for this, but I have no vw trans either. I do have a dial gauge and magnetic base.
You can't use the newer style bolts in place of the older style bolts. The new full-thread bolts will be too long and bottom out in the block... As I said, you should have gotten studs...
Well I don't know which main cap bolts the engine originally came with, old or new style, as I didn't strip it down and rebuild it, and even then I don't know if the guy rebuilding used new bolts or the original ones when he reassembled the bottom end. The bolts that I just removed are fully threaded and have an 85mm long shank. The vw dealer parts guy sold me 80mm fully threaded bolts......said they were correct for my 1993 aaz.
Studs, better, ok, but I really don't know which to get, and if there are clearance issues with the windage tray, they cost 2 to 3 x the vw bolts, mail order for me, etc. If 2 guys have had bottom end failures out of how many that have done rebuilds using new bolts or even reused the old bolts? The vw parts guy says he almost never sells main bolts, but sells many rod stretch bolts, and claims that the main bolts are re-useable. At least I'm going with new bolts. I ain't done spending $$ on the motor yet
.......the K03 turbo is original, as is the injection pump, both with 219000 kms on them. Hopefully I can bolt'em on and use them.
At least the oil pump is good.....took it apart yesterday to clean and measure backlash. The oil spray nozzles were not installed with any sealer, so I removed and reinstalled with Lepage 1194 Liquid Gasket and blue Loctite on the retaining bolts.
You can use a clear hose (from the #4 GP hole) with some fluid in it.
Check this out: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=34145.0
Works perfect.
If your lucky you can find a tube with an OD that fits into the GP hole. I re-threaded a brass hose barb.
IMHO, loctite is a band-aid for a properly torqued "new" bolt on a properly machined crank.
Thanks for the link, the TDC tube method looks easy to do.
I wouldn't bother checking the crank after machining. For tdc in my sidekick I used a dial indicator with the head off then made an arrow that bolts to the block and made a mark on my pulley.
I wouldn't bother checking the crank after machining. For tdc in my sidekick I used a dial indicator with the head off then made an arrow that bolts to the block and made a mark on my pulley.
That's kinda what I was thinking, except the head is already on. Maybe use the dial indicator on the bottom of #1 con rod cap?