Anyone interested in building a custom downpipe or header see my post in
For Sale / Needed
Cool! I need a couple tight u bends to make up a turbo downpipe. 2.25", SS.
Cost? shipping?
Thanks,
Larry
I've been working toward a stainless downpipe like fspGTD's.
http://home.comcast.net/~vwgtd/downpipe.htm Without the extra wastegate pipe.
I was working with the 2.5" stainless J bend, after working toward making it look something like the stock downpipe, I look over at this other downpipe I have and it is different. One is longer and sets the end of the downpipe farther to the passenger side. The other is shorter and ends up with it's gasket a little higher and might run closer to the shift lever (on a Rabbit).
I figure one is for a Rabbit turbo diesel and the other is for the A2 turbo diesel setup.
I think someone on here said the A2 turbo diesel downpipe wouldn't work on the Rabbit TD ... because it gets in the way of the shifter lever. They might have even said what the difference is between the downpipes but I can't find it on here now.
Since the Rabbit downpipe will fit more cars, that's the one I should copy Can anyone help me figure which downpipe is for the Rabbit?
you might want to consider a rebuilt if you're gonna do some extra mods. Some new rings definitely help!!!
thats my two cents
fatmobile - if you tried bolting an A2 1.6lTD turbo outlet pipe into an A1, it sticks back pointing into the firewall. I can't remember if the cast iron turbo outlet pipe itself interferes with the firewall, or if it just places the outlet into a non-usable location being right next to and pointing at the firewall. But that's basically the difference... the A1 turbine outlet pipe points straight down, while the A2 version reaches and/or points more towards the rear of the car.
The "toilet bowl" as you guys seem to like the call them, can certainly be enlarged considerably, to 2.5" or beyond. The hard part is re-creating the top half of the joint in tubular metal like hartmann motorsports did (as the stock one is cast iron.) Here is a view of the hartmann motorsports tubular upper part of the joint at 2.5"ID:
To enlarge the lower part, you just saw off the lower part of the "bowl", to make it have a bigger outlet. Here is pictured, one that has been enlarged to 2.5"ID:
It could be enlarged further yet (although I am not sure if it could make it to 3" I am not sure - maybe.) The limiting factor is the ID of the doughnut-shaped gasket, in the upper part of the joint.
fspGTD can you get any more of those manifold? like the one you have now? i have acess to welders and so on. if you could i would like one
I would recommend contacting Hartmann Motorsports in germany, and ask if they still make the A2 Golf GTD Downpipe. When I got mine, I had a friend living in Germany do the transaction with them for me.
http://www.hartmann-motorsport.de/
Well since you asked, I have gone though 3 versions of my current intercooler charge pipe setup. Version 1. 2" pool hose with 90 elbows routed about the longest way that you can imagine (from beside the alt. under the car across where the front bumper is up by the powersteering res. back towards the fire wall and then finally to the intake) net slightly better egt's then stock and max boost in third gear up 'test hill' (note same hill as I always use using same procedure as I always use to test my new mods) net result max boost of 23 psi @ approx 3900rpm. Next version same as above but using mandreal bent exhuast tubing welded with two silcone conectors for system flex. Net result max boost 23psi @ approx 3600rpm with about the same egt's (in safe area so didn't pay much attention) Third sytem back to pool hose with crappy 90 elbows but, now about a foot longer hot side and about 6 feet shorter cold side. Net result max boost of 23 psi @ approx 3200 rpm. Fourth version in progress about a foot shorter then 3rd with 2" mandrel bent exhuast tubing. In the mean time version no intercooler back to stock rubber elbow. Net result max boost of 24 psi @ 2900 rpm (and the car feels way quicker through out the rev range) egt's still in the safe area. Now considering leaving it like this till either I get my pump tweaked for alot more fuel, or till I can afford a sperco intercooler.
As for AntonUk, deepmud is correct you cannot swap the head.
As for deepmud the pumps they are swaping are still DI pumps but are fully mechanical, idi pumps do not create the pressure needed to opperate the DI injectors.
What range do you deem safe for EGT's? I've heard 1400, but not for more than about a minute. Any input?
I am never over 1300 pre turbo no matter what I do :? obviously lots of air flow and not enough fuel. However, personally I would feel safe running 1500 for short periods of time. And have seen as high as 1800 on the dodge on the dyno with no ill effects. (this was for no more than 5-7 seconds) all of these numbers are pre-turbo.