Well since we don't have one on this board yet I supose I will answer this one so people have something to search for. That and I just wrote out the novel for another board so ignore the refrences to the 4x4's and other engines
:roll:
What this didn't cover as I had already covered it during this persons build up are the upfront costs. **These things must be in place b4 any thing you start to mod.
1. ***Exhaust from turbo back at lest 2.25" mandrel bent 2.5" is ideal, 3" is doable but takes alot more fabing.
2. Gauges. egt gauge, boost gauge, are the minimum, if you are going to do the govener mod then add a tach to that.
3. Intercooler, a poor intercooler is worse then none at all so choose wisely ( I am not the authority on intercoolers so someone else will have to jump in here.
4.**optional but highly recomended**1.9L metal HG, and arp, or raceware or, jan b's cheap head bolts or studs.
****WRITE DOWN EVERY ADJUSTMENT YOU MAKE, SO THAT IT IS EASY TO RETURN TO STOCK SETTINGS FOR EMISSIONS OR WHATEVER****
Ok lets start with the max fuel screw as even with out extra boost these motors can still definatly use extra fuel, so for this mod just break off the coller (either remove completly form pump and then remove or find the seam and pry it off with a well pointed flat blade screw driver. Then start turning it in until ether you chicken out, or your idle goes above 1200 or so with the idle screw turned right out (with the exhuast and intercooler setup you have if you run enough boost to burn this fuel (ie around 15-20psi) you will run lower egt # then a stock vwtd.
From here lets move to the the top of the pump under which is located the starwheel the diaphram and the anroid pin.
On the very top is a cap with a 13mm lock nut around a torx screw (i think its a T-25) this is referd to as the smoke screw as it adjusts low rpm / load fueling by turing it clock wise you increse the fuel and normally the smoke and visa versa, a good place to start is about two turns in.
Now lets remove the four screws holding the cap down pull off the cap and you will see a large rubber diaphram **(there should be a puch mark on the metal center take note of the direction it is pointed), with some wiggling and sometimes the added help of a flat balde screwdriver prying on the metal center this should come out with a spring and a nylon washer, at the bottom is the ecentric cone that the anroid pin rides on, if you look around the cone you will see exactly where the pin rides (ware mark) now take the nylon washer and compare the its thickness to the the amont of pin travel to the top of the cone, remove that much from the washer so the pin now can travel to a hair shy of the top of the cone. Incase you havn't realized the amount that pin travels is the amount of fuel avalible under boost so now when we replace the cone and the diaphram we will replace it so that the pin is now riding on the steepest section, BUT before we replace it lets look down into the hole where the starwheel resides. The star wheel adjustment sets the spring tension on the fuel load delivery rate diaphragm. If your star wheel (under the AFC spring) is set too high, the delivery rate pin won't move downward as it should with increasing boost levels. Turning the star wheel up (counterclockwise) increases the spring pressure, and slows the delivery rate. I'd suggest turning the star wheel down (clockwise) in 1/4 turn increments until you smoke, then back off (counterclockwise) till smoke is gone to your satisfaction, or smoke on under power, a black haze, not a black soot cloud. The retaining lock spring doesn't have to be removed, the star wheel will rotate with a small screwdriver gently placed and pried between the wheel and it. Note the location of the wheel, mark it, and count any turns for reference. Remember: Star wheel down=less spring resistance=increased fuel delivery rate.
Ok so far all of the above mods have been free, just basic tuning built into the motor. These next mods may or may not be free depending on your skill and the tools you have.
First We Now need more Air so its time for a manul boost contoroler this can be anything form a fish tank bleeder valve, to a full on greddy electronic boost mangement system. personally I like the grainger valve its cheap, works well and is reliable, here is a link to all sorts of boost contorllers
Boost Controlers once again this could be free or it could cost $600.00 depends on what you have and what you want.
Next is injection pump timing, ***IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHEN THE LAST TIME THE TIMMING BLET WAS CHANGED DO IT NOW WHILE YOU ARE DOING TIHS** With that being said you don't have to actually remove the timming belt to do this, but you do need the proper dial gauges, If you don't have them take it to sombody that does, get it set for 1.00mm - 1.05mm factory is .95mm incse anybody cares. once again if you have the tools this could be free if you don't it probably will cost you something.
Finally this last mod is not all that hard but, is high on the pucker factor which is why most people let a shop do it (preferabley at the same time as the mod listed above) this is the govener mod. The govener on this motor start kicking in about 2800 rpm with a limit to about 5450 rpm, now this mod will change your motor from night to day. Imagine if you will your driving along in a normal family car and as you press on the gas you get more fuel so the more load the engine sees and the faster you rev it the more fuel it gets, obviously to a point. no imagine that you are driving that same car and some one has put a govener on it that starts taking away fuel at 2800rpm and by the time you reach 4000rpm even with your foot flat on the floor you it is cutting out the fuel by 80%, now I know you wouldn't except it in a gas motor so why would you in a diesel. The reason I use this analogy is when most people hear rpm mod they think of getting more rpm's and that is partly true you now can take your motor to what ever rpm you think it will hold, however it start to run out of top end breathing at about 5500rpm, though people have had to 6000rpm. The point is that there is a lot of extra power and dirveability with this mod.
Now for the actuall mod, on the cover of the pump (below the boost enrichment device we previously discussed) are four allen screws and a spring assembley it is imparitve that the spring assembly go back to gether exacly the same and on the exact same postion on its shaft so take pictures mark it draw it, what ever you hav eto do to make sure it goes back together the same. (Normally If I am working on a pump Ido this all at the same time I.e. I will pull out all of the above listed pieces and have everything layed out and marked) Now once you are in there you will see a spring assembly that has three parts a very soft idle spring **leave this one as is** an intermidiate spring and a long main sping. These springs are set so that once the idle spring has been compressed it starts to work on the intermidate spring and once that has been taken car of it starts on the main spring, now this main spring is long enough that you never actually get to the end of it in the real world. Here is the options for this mod, you can:
1. replace the intermidate and main sping with a solid piced of tube or strong wire ect... somthing that doesnt compress (I have even heard of fuel line :shock: )
2. you can place shims (read washers or what have you) in the intermidate spring placing it in coilbind and preloading the main spring by about a 1/4"
3. or you can just replace the intermidate spring with something solid, and preload the main agin by about 1/4"
then re-assemble and double check the spring asembly on the outside cover.
Now go and dirve your new beast you will quite litteraly smoke any stock gti 16v, or 8v, and will probably even keep pace with a well moded gti
And if this still isnt enough let me know and we will talk injectors, propane, nitrous, bigger turbo's, or twin sequntials, head swaps, cams and pump mods to take care of the fueling needs :grinpimp: but all of those cost money.
The most you should spend to get all of the above done is about $350 cdn, (THIS IS NOT INCLUDING THE ** UPFRONT COSTS** SEE ABOVE) that is including replacing the timing belt and buying a manual boost controller (ebay is a great source lots of ricers to cater too :flipoff2: anyone will work don't worry if it says for a specific brand its just controlling air flow)
And that about wraps up stage one. (or mabey novel #1 :roll: )
Some one correct me If I am wrong, but I belive that at this point you are in the 120HP neighbour hood and depending on how much you can fab and the kind of deals you got along the way it will have cost you anyware from about $200.00 - $2500.00
One more thing to add if your not going to do the gov. mod yourself send your pump to Giles and have him work his magic all at the same time it will save you in the long run of doing bits and picese here and there, that and your pump will be ready for more then any stage that any of us have taken this motor to YET :twisted:
Topic: Need More Power (Read 23901 times)
