ok, im officially a TD, now i want more boost - page 1 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• ok, im officially a TD, now i want more boost by 2mAn on 06 Jan, 2007 11:08
• already modified the BOV thingi so im runnin 8psi. where can i get the stuff needed to modify my LDA and also my wastegate? and how much psi should i be running after all that. obviously once thats done i wanna run more fuel too, any tips? im dynoing the car next week so im trying to get as much done prior to that. thanks
• #1 by RabbitJockey on 06 Jan, 2007 11:50
• what type of turbo do you have?  all you need to modify the lda with is a flat head screw driver  if you need help i can take mine apart and take pictures, maeka  diy
• #2 by RabbitJockey on 06 Jan, 2007 11:50
• don't run anymore than 15 psi. even though i did lol  :roll:
  
  
  how do you like the td?
• #3 by RabbitJockey on 06 Jan, 2007 12:54
• here it is hopefully this helps
  
  http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=48634#48634
• #4 by DVST8R on 06 Jan, 2007 13:51
• Quote from: "2manVR6"

  already modified the BOV thingi so im runnin 8psi. where can i get the stuff needed to modify my LDA and also my wastegate? and how much psi should i be running after all that. obviously once thats done i wanna run more fuel too, any tips? im dynoing the car next week so im trying to get as much done prior to that. thanks

  
  
  Ok iirc you have swapped a TD in and have a PP 2.5" down pipe, and 2.5" exhaust?
  
  What do you have for Gauge's?
  
  If you DO NOT have an EGT gauge leave the tuning until you do.
  
  Once you have the gauge in here is a list of what tools you need to tune that pump/turbo combo to their ragged edge:
  
  - Flat blade screw drivers one big one small
  - 13mm wrench
  - 11mm wrench
  - nice sharp chisel (or some other way to remove the max fuel screw collar)
  - bench grinder, or a file if you have forever
  - pump timing tools
  - manual boost controller (either ball and spring or homemade electric, my preference being the second, the bleed ones react slow and overshoot a lot.)
  
  Now there is already a link in this thread to my old post of making power, but a here are a few more tips I have learned over the last couple of years since I first wrote that.
  
  HG's are an iffy thing, I have always had great luck with stock ones and stock bolts all the way up and past 35psi. With that being said my latest motor is running a 1.9HG and I have studs sitting in my basement. After years and years of doing this I think most HG failures are cause by overheating and not by excessive boost. In any case be aware that this maybe an issue for you when you start cranking it up.
  
  There is a ton of potential power in the boost pin, there are two ways of getting at it, the cheap way is to hack the crap outta your existing pin. Hillfolker has a great post, with pic's on that. The better but more expensive way is to get an "OLD SMOKEY, or clone" these pins are made from scratch and there max setting is deeper then the back edge of stock pin. Summit Racing sells these "BLY-42190" for ~ $186USD.
  
  Next use the intake manifold as the pressure source for your boost controller, I have found after a ton of trial and error, that it provides the most constant source of pressure making your response far more linear then if taken of the turbo, just block of the turbo boost reference port and run it from the manifold, it works much better this way.
  
  *****OKAY HERE IS THE BIG ONE*******
  
  You are not tuning a gas motor, more boost means nothing!
  Fuel is what you want! add air (boost) just to clean up and cool down the fuel that you are burning, anything more is just redundant.
  
  So if you are truly wanting to tune your TD, your title to this thread should have read "ok, im officially a TD, now i want more fuel"
   
  Have fun with it.
   
• #5 by RabbitJockey on 06 Jan, 2007 18:18
• i wouldn't use a chisel, a small screw driver did it rather quickly for me
• #6 by 2mAn on 06 Jan, 2007 22:18
• ok for gauges i have 3 vdo gauges in the stock mk1 location and they are: voltage, boost and oil temp. i also have a autospruce egt gauge.
  
  i want to get everything setup ASAP because i will be dynoing next weekend and i want to have a ~15psi setup when i  so that i can adjust the fuel at the dyno and moniter the a/f ratio and egt's while on the safety of a dyno.
  
  later, i will dyno again with the same setup with an intercooler. after that i will be saving to have giles mod my pump for max fuel, then i wanna boost at least 20psi from the t3.
• #7 by Turbinepowered on 06 Jan, 2007 23:14
• Why bother with the A/F ratio? It's gonna be lean anyway, even if you're blowing heavy black smoke out the tailpipe. Diesels burn lean.
• #8 by 2mAn on 07 Jan, 2007 00:25
• Quote from: Turbinepowered

  Why bother with the A/F ratio? It's gonna be lean anyway, even if you're blowing heavy black smoke out the tailpipe. Diesels burn lean.

  
  
  ahhh now im starting understand it... that explains why a pyro gauge is so important. so if it runs lean and still blows smoke, is that smoke unburned fuel??
• #9 by jtanguay on 07 Jan, 2007 05:14
• you are one with your td... you are a td... now drive!
  
  you are now officially... a td!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  :lol:
• #10 by RabbitJockey on 07 Jan, 2007 07:23
• many people that it's unburned fuel, it's not, unburned fuel is white and leaves the car the same way it was injected.  the black smoke is actually partially burned fuel.  it's chemistry look it up lol.
• #11 by RabbitJockey on 07 Jan, 2007 07:24
• just get your wastegate set to 15 psi, and get as much fuel into it with out too much smoke and you'll do good
• #12 by DVST8R on 07 Jan, 2007 12:54
• Now I am a little leary doing this as I have already described exactly what you need to do, in a big long post that has been linked on this page. The reason for my apprehension is that you still are thinking of tuning this as a gas motor not as a diesel. As such your basic understanding of what is going on when you increase the power is lacking, this is what causes blown motors, more then anything else.
  
  Is your pyro pre-turbo?
  
  ****Disclaimer***** You May Blow your motor, With taking it outside of factory specs, this is just for information purposes*****
  
  - First thing, Pull your boost pin shave it like one of the pins found on this site / like the slash, shave it right from the deepest point to the base so it is no longer round. Bring the starwheel up 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Shave the nylon washer so you get full travel up the boost pin, you will be able to see the mark's on the boost pin, compare the distance from the end of the mark to the deepest part of the pin, shave the nylon washer that much. Place cut boost pin in with the deepest part of the cut facing the needle in the hole.
  
  - Now set boost controller for ~24-26psi (use intake manifold for the boost reference) higher if you are comfortable with the possible result, boost (at this level) doesn't kill these motors, too much heat does.
  
  -Back out the screw that limits the max rpm all the way. Adjust the throttle cable for max travel.
  
  -Break off the max fuel screw collar, add about an 1/8th of a turn at a time as the Idle raises back out the idle screw on the back side of the pump (opposite of the one that you just removed for the max rpm) Do this until you have backed out the idle screw all the way. ***************** YOUR PUMP CAN RUNAWAY NEAR THIS POINT ************
  as you make your adjustments block the wheels in the car, make your full fuel adjustment, get in the car start it rev it abit, if the RPM doesnt come back to idle ********SHUT IT OFF****** IF IT WILL NOT SHUT OFF***** SELECT 5TH GEAR AND STALL IT***** FOOT ON THE BRAKE AND DUMP THE CLUTCH*****
  
  -Adjust pump so that it has the max fuel you can get without it running away.
  
  -Set static timing for 1.05mm
  
  -Up until this point everything you have done has been external.
  
  -Do the Gov mod, this has been outlined with pics numerous times. Just shim the intermediate spring so it no longer functions and lightly preloads the main spring.
  
  
  -Go dyno your car, be careful as with no intercooler you will get high egt's if you run WOT for any length of time. You won't want to get above ~1500F degrees pre-turbo. If this was done correctly you should run with 16V easily and your clutch will not like you for long. If you drive hard 020's will not like you for long either.
  
  Get it, got it, good
     :wink:
• #13 by jtanguay on 07 Jan, 2007 15:18
• Quote

  Now I am a little leary doing this as I have already described exactly what you need to do, in a big long post that has been linked on this page. The reason for my apprehension is that you still are thinking of tuning this as a gas motor not as a diesel. As such your basic understanding of what is going on when you increase the power is lacking, this is what causes blown motors, more then anything else.
  
  Is your pyro pre-turbo?
  
  ****Disclaimer***** You May Blow your motor, With taking it outside of factory specs, this is just for information purposes*****
  
  - First thing, Pull your boost pin shave it like one of the pins found on this site / like the slash, shave it right from the deepest point to the base so it is no longer round. Bring the starwheel up 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Shave the nylon washer so you get full travel up the boost pin, you will be able to see the mark's on the boost pin, compare the distance from the end of the mark to the deepest part of the pin, shave the nylon washer that much. Place cut boost pin in with the deepest part of the cut facing the needle in the hole.
  
  - Now set boost controller for ~24-26psi (use intake manifold for the boost reference) higher if you are comfortable with the possible result, boost (at this level) doesn't kill these motors, too much heat does.
  
  -Back out the screw that limits the max rpm all the way. Adjust the throttle cable for max travel.
  
  -Break off the max fuel screw collar, add about an 1/8th of a turn at a time as the Idle raises back out the idle screw on the back side of the pump (opposite of the one that you just removed for the max rpm) Do this until you have backed out the idle screw all the way. ***************** YOUR PUMP CAN RUNAWAY NEAR THIS POINT ************
  as you make your adjustments block the wheels in the car, make your full fuel adjustment, get in the car start it rev it abit, if the RPM doesnt come back to idle ********SHUT IT OFF****** IF IT WILL NOT SHUT OFF***** SELECT 5TH GEAR AND STALL IT***** FOOT ON THE BRAKE AND DUMP THE CLUTCH*****
  
  -Adjust pump so that it has the max fuel you can get without it running away.
  
  -Set static timing for 1.05mm
  
  -Up until this point everything you have done has been external.
  
  -Do the Gov mod, this has been outlined with pics numerous times. Just shim the intermediate spring so it no longer functions and lightly preloads the main spring.
  
  
  -Go dyno your car, be careful as with no intercooler you will get high egt's if you run WOT for any length of time. You won't want to get above ~1500F degrees pre-turbo. If this was done correctly you should run with 16V easily and your clutch will not like you for long. If you drive hard 020's will not like you for long either.
  
  Get it, got it, good
     :wink:

  
  
  should be listed in the faq as:  How to Melt your Engine!
• #14 by RabbitJockey on 07 Jan, 2007 15:19
• how to have fun