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#15
by
wyldman
on 04 Jan, 2007 18:10
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Well, plan A didnt work. Took it to aircare without touching anything and it failed by 5%. Drove around the block, disconnected the LDA and pulled cold start and tried it again, only failed by 3%. Boohoo. Guess I'll try an oil change on w/e and see what that does.
click to view larger
I thought the LDA disconnected would get me through looking at that one spike just after accelerating to 90kph.
This car is for sale BTW. Someone buy it and save me the hassle. Then I can drive my TDI.
http://vancouver.craigslist.org/car/256807563.html
discount for existing vwdiesel board members!
Back out the fuel screw,it will drop bigtime.
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#16
by
Lil' Stinker
on 04 Jan, 2007 20:46
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I'm having a similar problem, I failed the opacity test here in CT, but I think it's lower than 35%. I put together an in-tank science experiment of biodiesel and kerosene, based on another post that recommended kero for emissions and my own experience with bio giving less smoke. I also backed off the fuel screw a bit (not the one on top, but the one on the back of the IP) Anyway, it was much worse, like 70% opacity! Since then (last month) I've been running different blends of fuel, now at b10 or so, and it still smokes a foul cloud. Oh yeah, I'm in the high oil consumption crowd as well, about a quart every 100 miles, but much better on a fresh oil change. This was all after a vw diesel shop reset the timing for me. I'm looking at doing a quickie rering, although I'm not sure what the head is looking like.
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#17
by
jtanguay
on 04 Jan, 2007 22:44
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pretty much as mentioned before... you NEED to back out your fuel screw!!! do it until your car idles like CRAP lol... it will be shaking to death.. but at least you will pass!!!
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#18
by
somolovitch3
on 04 Jan, 2007 23:03
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Hope to get the truck back, well today, Haven't heard from shop about injectors yet. Might delay things a bit.-------like Bentlys ordered on Dec 8th that won't ship untill Feb 7th! Sorry about that last part :oops:
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#19
by
somolovitch3
on 06 Jan, 2007 20:38
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Maybe get truck back Tues. With rebuilt injectors/pump-timing set 1.02.
Cheaper to get block and set it up w/ new pistons or open up this engine and re-ring ?/ rebuid ?/ .......?
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#20
by
jtanguay
on 07 Jan, 2007 04:55
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cheapest quick fix would be just to re-ring the motor. best long lasting (very long lasting actually) fix is to bore/hone & new pistons & rings. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ though.... pistons alone are $320 from myke_w on this forum. which is a pretty good deal.
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#21
by
Doug
on 07 Jan, 2007 12:04
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I am doing a ring job right now on a 1.6 TD. Considered an oversize piston and rebore but the price is a bit large. Who is this mike guy? That price almost seems reasonable if it for a set of 4. One thing that I have noticed is that all the replacement valves, gaskets, rings and bearings are coming with holographic logos presumably to indicate quality so that the buyer has some assurance that these are not just cheap knockoffs cranked out of some Asian or South American sweatshop.
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#22
by
jtanguay
on 07 Jan, 2007 15:30
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yea those asians are notorious for reverse-engineering products and mass producing them with little quality control... i doubt that they can produce kollbenschmidt quality pistons though
although i'm beginning to think if there was enough demand for it, they might just try :shock:
myke_w is his username on the forum here do a search in the vendors section. i will be buying my pistons from him when i get the motor all honed and bored. its for the set of 4 with 4 rings and circlips.
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=5957
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#23
by
LeeG
on 09 Jan, 2007 10:00
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well, here is an update on my situation: I was buying oil and on a whim decided to buy a bottle of a oil additive touted to reduce smoke from oil consumption. I'm not normally drawn to chemical solutions for mechanical problems, but the reason I was going to switch to synthetic was to get a higher flash point and hopefully less oil burn. So I figured $6 invested in the interest of science....
Stuff is thicky, gooey and sticky (drips turn into streamers and fly in the wind like chainsaw bar oil). I did notice a reduction in smoke over the next couple days. In for a penny and all that, I decided to retest the car for aircare........and it passed. New reading was 18/30 as compared to 33/30 in above posts. Nothing else changed, same fuel, no adjustments. The car might have been more completly warmed up as I tested it after my morning commute. Last week I tested at lunch time after driving around a bit.
Brand I bought was Bardahl. I didnt get the one that promissed to swell seals to stop leaks, as I don't have leaks and dont want to have them.
YMMV
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#24
by
jtanguay
on 09 Jan, 2007 15:16
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bardahl is some good stuff. problem with the gooeyness is that it thickens up your oil (not so great in the winter time)
since you're selling your car it doesn't really matter, but the car should be warmed up longer than normal since the oil is thicker now.
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#25
by
LeeG
on 09 Jan, 2007 15:33
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oh yeah, the oil change is still planned, I didnt intend to leave that stuff in there.
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#26
by
jtanguay
on 09 Jan, 2007 18:59
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you can leave the bardahl in there or maybe not depending on how cold it is :lol: ... it won't hurt anything. i hate people who cut up additives... yes some of them are worthless but some are actually pretty good.
wynn's oil stop leak worked good in my older diesel in the summer time. yep no oil burning/leaking. it just increases the viscosity of the oil! that basically means being more gentle on the motor before it has a chance to start up. most of the additives will actually 'stick' to metal surfaces in case anyone is worried about low oil flow at start up.
winter came around and i switched to synthetic... oil didn't burn and seemed as though no oil leaking.
if all you're after is to help an old diesel motor live longer, then why spend $$$ on a rebuild when all you need is to add a good additive? you can easily squeeze another 5 years with some additives
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#27
by
somolovitch3
on 14 Jan, 2007 10:24
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:twisted: Update: Got truck back Wed Jan 10 (spent $1142 on Injectors/IP rebuild/Pump timing to 1.02mm/Valve-Crank-Pump timig/you name it)
Went to emissons PASSED 30% power at 8.6% ,FAILED WOT at 46.9 %.
Went to county where they gave me a waiver do to improvement and the fact that I spent more than $750. Who-raw, WE is RAW.
Put some Bardal StopLeak/NoSmoke in on Thus. We will see.
Thanks for all the help!
(Even the hijerkers helped!) :roll: