Techtonics Tuning 2.25" DP VS Passenger Performance 2.5

[2mAn]

Techtonics Tuning 2.25" DP $275

"This Downpipe fits the factory MkI and MkII Turbo Diesels in a MkI Chassis. 2.25" Stainless tubing will fit tt 2.25" exhaust. Also comes with custom short shift kit."
www.techtonicstuning.com

OR

Passenger Performance 2.5" DP $200

"Quality TIG-welded 2.5" downpipe for your MK1 (model year 1984 or earlier, including Rabbits) 1.6L TD with factory Garrett and Borg Warner KKK turbos. Reduces backpressure, decreases EGT, improves turbo spool up time. We recommend upgrading the rest of the exhaust to 2.5" for the best possible performance. The downpipe includes a flex pipe."
www.passengerdiesel.com

took all that info directly from the websites. im going to be swapping in a 1.6TD in my mk1 coupe in a few weeks and when i do it, id like to add a downpipe and exhaust at the same time. to me it seems like a clear decision, but id like some input from people who have actually used these products.... discuss....

[anarchyx34]

Havent used either of these products, but the PP downpipe looks like the better deal. The only thing I'm confused about is connecting it to the rest of the exhaust system with that funny looking flange at the end of the downpipe.  Seems like it would've made more sense to extend it a bit and use a slip/collar fitting like the TT pipe.

[935racer]

Call it biased but I'll add a few comments on my downpipes

The passenger downpipe has these advantages:
2.5" diameter, better flow, lower egts, quicker spoolup.
Wide radius bend right off the turbo, notice how the TT pipe is much like the factory version and quickly bends down immediately after the turbine outlet, this is not good for flow and creates extra back pressure, egts, and slows turbo spooling. The passenger pipe helps lower egts and makes for quicker spool up with its wide radius bend..
No need for a short shifter (although there is nothing wrong with adding a short shifter)
I have a flange on the end of the flex joint and another identical flange is included with the downpipe to weld to your exhaust, this makes the downpipe  a quick bolt in, bolt out affair, I really hate slip joint fittings, this way you have 4 bolts and you can remove it and install it with ease.
I have heard (just read on forums, no personal experience) that TT pipes are prone to cracking. I have not had a single downpipe failure that I have been made aware of to this date.

[935racer]

The PP Downpipe looks sexier too.   :wink:  :lol:

Andrew

I can sell you a piece of sch40 pipe as a package deal to beat off the ladies :lol:

[Black Smokin' Diesel]

The PP downpipe has a larger diameter, what looks like better flow and is cheaper. Add ceramic coating and it's still 10$ cheaper than the TT downpipe.

Oh and shipping will probably be cheaper since the PP product isn't as bulky.

I don't own either of the two but just because they are in Canada I'd personally go with PP.

[2mAn]

is the pipe stainless or aluminzied?

[burn_your_money]

Is TT in USD and PP in CAD?

[92Ecodiesel]

I bought and installed the PP 2.5 downpipe on my 1.6 eco diesel. I highly recommend it, well worth the money spent.

Doug

92eco soon to be a "real TD"

[Fisher]

The TT Down Pipe has the brackets for the support to the Exhaust Manifold, the PP Pipe does not include this.

[saurkraut]

Hey Dave,

would you do a DP without the flange, and a hunk of streight pipe to do a slip joint.

I do not have the same distain for slip joints that you have.  I find that if i slot the outside pipe of the joint, use copper antisieze, and clamp until the joint doesn't move, but not so tight that it crushes the pipe, I can easily undo them later, even after driving in winter on salted roads.  Don't forget to gob the pipe clamps with antisieze too.

I really don't like cutting rusty bolts on flanges of exhauste systems.

To each his own, i guess.

Might be in the market for a DP for my 1.5TD winter rabbit project pritty soon.

[935racer]

The TT Down Pipe has the brackets for the support to the Exhaust Manifold, the PP Pipe does not include this.

There is no need for a bracket, if a downpipe is properly welded there is no way under normal operating uses it will crack/break. I can literally hang one of my downpipes from the rafters in my shop and hang from the pipe and give it a good shake, no cracking, bending or breaking. And I havent had a single failure. TT's are known to crack at the flange.

[935racer]

Is TT in USD and PP in CAD?

My site has both CAD and USD, the $200 here for this downpipe is USD.

[935racer]

is the pipe stainless or aluminzied?

Neither, its mild steel, if you are worried about corrosion get the ceramic coating, it drops under hood temps, resists corrosion and looks great.

[935racer]

Hey Dave,

would you do a DP without the flange, and a hunk of streight pipe to do a slip joint.

I do not have the same distain for slip joints that you have.  I find that if i slot the outside pipe of the joint, use copper antisieze, and clamp until the joint doesn't move, but not so tight that it crushes the pipe, I can easily undo them later, even after driving in winter on salted roads.  Don't forget to gob the pipe clamps with antisieze too.

I really don't like cutting rusty bolts on flanges of exhauste systems.

To each his own, i guess.

Might be in the market for a DP for my 1.5TD winter rabbit project pritty soon.

You could use that same copper antisieze for the bolts as well, thats what I do, I just like the quick and easy installation, you can remove the downpipe in under 5 minutes. But yes I could leave the flange off of the end of the flex joint and weld on a straight piece for you.

[2mAn]

how long would it take to get a ceramic coated pipe to seattle? ill order before monday if it can get here in time