Author Topic: Yeah back on the road (Read 5434 times)

Darkness_is_spreading · « **on:** October 29, 2006, 07:14:11 pm »

Well finally finished my front end, top to bottom :lol:

I was prefiring my motor to build up oil pressure, and I forgot to disconnect the pump fuel cutoff switch, and I didn't prime the GP. I went to start the motor and cranked for 2 seconds, stoped, then crancked again for 2 sec and she almost fired up on me.

The motor has 365 k running with Rotella T 15W40, and is usually drive normally, unless the time calls for smog bomb or rippin. Without doing a compression test, would the idea of a motor being able to fire up on a cold night, be a good assumption that the compression is decent on the motor. I should just rip the compression tester out and check, but wanted some input from you guys. Also the blowby is only a problem or shows up when I beat the living hell out of the motor, but I have withdrawn from this habbit because I want the motor to last a little longer.

jtanguay · « **Reply #1 on:** October 30, 2006, 04:52:30 am »

if your car starts up no problems without GP and around -5 or -10C then your car has great compression

Darkness_is_spreading · « **Reply #2 on:** October 30, 2006, 06:56:39 am »

Excellent

RabbitJockey · « **Reply #3 on:** October 30, 2006, 05:22:24 pm »

back in the saddle again

Darkness_is_spreading · « **Reply #4 on:** November 06, 2006, 04:26:44 pm »

I figured out some neat tricks for installing the front end on your car:

First removal is easiest with either wd-40 or similar penetrant and heat.

tie rods come out very eaisly with the multi tie rod puller found at princess auto, wheel bearing nut's need alot of torque to get em off, torque number is 180 ft/lbs.........

Ball joints come out nicely with the impact gun, and the mult use spring compressor is perfect with a quick shot from the impact.

I almost screwed up when I went to install everything in reverse, I had to smash the the old strut bearing off and I didn't pay attention because the strust bearing is connected to the strut via a nut......

Pushing of the wheel bearings in and out of the knuckle is done easiest when you have the exact pipe to support the knuckle when you press the bearing out.

Installation of the wheel bearing ( frozen of course) isproperly packed with Lucas Extra-Heavy Duty grease, they say it's virtually water proof, which is perfect for anything that may see water or dirt in it's travels.

Anti-Seize was used on the bolts that connect the caliper to the knuckle, and on most of the connecting hardware, other than the Axle Nut, and where the strust attaches to the knuckle.

Other than that, it is very straight forward, just anoying because things like to get seized up and not move.......

I think I'll install my upper strut bar to tighten up the front end a little more...........

burn_your_money · « **Reply #5 on:** November 06, 2006, 04:44:38 pm »

I really hope I get my car this week. It's at the garage getting an inspection

That upper strut bar should make a noticable differance

jtanguay · « **Reply #6 on:** November 07, 2006, 06:17:26 pm »

i have yet to install my upper & lower strut braces... I have installed the rear one though... that was pretty much a 'snap'

Darkness_is_spreading · « **Reply #7 on:** November 08, 2006, 09:37:27 pm »

Do you have any info on the rear strut mount...

Is this fitted into a Golf or Jetta and also is this an Ebay item.

jtanguay · « **Reply #8 on:** November 08, 2006, 10:27:57 pm »

the rear strut mount is pretty much just a bushing... not like a bearing on the front ones... don't know of any higher end ones.. the rubber should last a really long time since they don't pivot.

Darkness_is_spreading · « **Reply #9 on:** November 09, 2006, 06:46:13 am »

Ok I was thinking you put a strut bar across the rear struts, I wonder if I could make one to fit in that area behind the seat.... tighten up the rear of the car and not obstruct carrying space....