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Just got a Garrett T3 :)
by
jtanguay
on 20 Oct, 2006 14:00
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Yep I finally got a new turbo to awaken my car from its dreaded wastegate leaking K14 that does spool pretty nice, but doesnt make much boost at all...
I got it off Ebay. It was rebuilt, but put on a shelf... Is there anything I should do to the turbo before putting it on the car? the oil passages look kinda rusty... any recommendations? I'd think that if I were to put this thing on right now, it would probably fail if not primed...
I'm also pretty sure that I will need different turbo oil lines, but cannot be certain. Anyone know for sure? its a '92 with K14.
It looks pretty nice, but the compressor blades look a little bit bent, and there seems to be a bit of a gap around the wheel and the housing. I've seen other turbo's with nearly zero gap there. Will this affect boosting much? Oh yea... there is zero play on this thing!!! SWEET
(but it doesnt spin freely... obviously it needs oil...)
thanks for any help!
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#1
by
andy2
on 20 Oct, 2006 16:53
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I don't live too far away (5-10mins) I would'nt mind checking it out for you. As far as the swap is concearned it will be almost a direct bolt on with only the turbo drain hose and intake hose having to be changed.
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#2
by
jtanguay
on 20 Oct, 2006 17:10
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awesome! where can I get the drain lines? the turbo spins a bit, but it 'sticks' as if it hasn't been lubed in a while... probably from sitting too long. i hope it doesn't have to be taken apart
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#3
by
jtanguay
on 21 Oct, 2006 12:46
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if my car does not overheat in city driving, but only when im moving say... 80 or so... would that be the turbo? or bad water pump?
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#4
by
RabbitJockey
on 29 Oct, 2006 08:02
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probably a bad radiator fan switch, they seem to like going bad on my cars haha
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#5
by
burn_your_money
on 29 Oct, 2006 11:49
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probably a bad radiator fan switch, they seem to like going bad on my cars haha
I think it would be the opposite if it was the rad fan switch.
WPs are cheap and easy to replace, I'd start with that
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#6
by
RabbitJockey
on 29 Oct, 2006 12:23
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oh haha i thought he said it was over heating. disregard my post fo sho
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#7
by
jtanguay
on 29 Oct, 2006 14:16
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yea I'm thinking WP too... since city driving it is holding temp real well. Just driving fast, the temp will keep on climbing very slowly, and if i slow to a stop and sit there for a few mins, the temp will gradually fall down. I seriously need to rig up some kind of light that will tell me when the rad fan is getting power... i'll probably just buy 2 LED's so I can see hi/lo operation. maybe get a little more complicated, and measure volts too? hehe nah :lol:
the thermoswitch is a brand new one... but i highly doubt its good quality since I didn't buy it... so many el-cheapo's out there. jumping the thermoswitch wires runs the fan perfectly as well. damn car!
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#8
by
Doug
on 29 Oct, 2006 17:09
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I noticed that when the timing belt and idler was replaced that the hot running disappeared. Is it possible that the timing ws retarded by belt stretch to the point of running a little warm under load? At highway speeds the fan should not be needed to assist the air flow through the radiator. Is your system pressurising as the temperature comes up? Maybe the reservoir cap is faulty. You might want to consider these ideas. Water pumps sometimes fail usually by the seal leaking. Rarely does an impeller separate from the shaft. Maybe the belt is slipping in the pulley groove as it is bottomed on the pulley. Generally you have to use a 10 mm width belt to get the best grip. Is the thermostat in the correct heat range for the engine? And is it even opening fully? Check it in a pan of heated water against a thermometer.
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#9
by
jtanguay
on 30 Oct, 2006 04:33
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thanks for the ideas. the engine has a new timing belt & was timed properly. the thermostat was brand new from the dealership so i'm quite sure its okay, and with a digital thermometer it does seem to be opening at around 87C. the reservoir cap may be in need of changing, so i'll probably just get a new one.
i would have to agree that at highway speeds the fresh air being drawn through the rad should be sufficient to cool the motor without a rad-fan, which is what puzzles me the most. currently i'm leaning towards the fact that my turbo doesn't make much boost at all, and the wastegate is most likely stuck open. so my theory is that the turbo is being overheated by the exhaust gases and is subsequently raising the temperature of my oil and therefore the temperature of the coolant. what puzzles me the most though, is that the thermostat should be opening to let the hot coolant out... I have read that the lower coolant hose can collapse at highway speeds... anyone have experience with that??? sounds about my luck... or maybe not since it seems too easy :lol:
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#10
by
Doug
on 01 Nov, 2006 10:16
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Just wanted to let you know that my machine was doing the same thing as yours. The motor was heating up at highway speeds, cooling down at lower speeds. A few checks by squeezing the upper rad hose showed that the system was not pressurising. Pulled the reservoir tank, cleaned it thoroughly including pulling the low level sensor out to clean the threads. Put a new cap on and a new sensor in, a new gear clamp on the return hose and presto it pressurises now. Under pressure the coolant can transport far more heat so the temperature swings disappear. Try it. Cap and sensor under $20 total at Competition Motors in Belleville.
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#11
by
jtanguay
on 01 Nov, 2006 10:50
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thanks Doug, I'll give it a shot
once i get that fixed.. i will try to fix my leaky injector pump! maybe try some of that atf stop leak? hehehehe probably too thick for the pump though
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#12
by
burn_your_money
on 01 Nov, 2006 14:23
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#13
by
jtanguay
on 02 Nov, 2006 09:09
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i remember emailing that guy on ebay asking him whether or not the seals were bio diesel safe... i'd guess that they were but does anyone really know??? He didn't get back to me...
i do have a spare injection pump I can mess around with... might be neat to get the rebuild kid and practice on it
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#14
by
Powjetta
on 02 Nov, 2006 13:16
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I did your idea of 2 LEDs on the high and the low speed on the fan. I got them at radioshack, low voltage types. They both come on any time the fan comes on, and at 70 MPH the fan turns enough to light them up. It's not the level of detail I expected.