1982 VW Pickup electrical issue

[Mike D.]

I have no lights, wipers, heater fan, radiator fan, horn, or anything else that should work electricly. I've unpluged all the harnesses to the various light systems and, when powered by an independent power system, they all work which eliminated the harnesses as an issue.It would appear to be in the cab somewhere. Everything that is supposed to have power to it with the key off, does. But, when I turn the key on, the bulb check relay clicks and nothing has power. For instance, the head light switch has power to it with the key off, but, when the key is turned on, the bulb check relay clicks and the switch no longer has power. When the key is turned off, the power comes back. Also, with the key off, the head light switch has power to it, but, if I pull the switch on, the same relay clicks and there is no longer power to the switch. When I push it off, the power is restored. The same is true of the rest. This happens with the horn and brake light switches. They have power to them untill they are accuated, and then the power is lost untill they are de-acctuated at which time the power returns. Does anyone have an idea what is going on?

[burn_your_money]

I'd start by checking the ignition switch. Pull it out and test it using the ohms setting on your multimeter.

When you are checking for voltage where are you grounding the multimeter? To the wire or to the chassis?

Up under the fuse box a bunch of grounds come together and ground to the chassis. Due to windsheild leaks they can corrode and even break off.

[Mike D.]

Thank you for your reply. this thing has ME baffled. I am grounding the multimeter to the chassis and the ground cluster you refered to was the case on a gasser I once had, but not this deisel. I've been working on the thing about two years making one good one from two not so good ones. The donor was a wreck found in a barn that had everything intact and in very good shape because it had been in the barn ten to fifteen years. The one I'm attempting to reserect was a daily driver untill some one got ahold of it and started "fixing" it. By the time he was done, it no longer functioned and the wireing harness was hashed so I got it cheap. I stripped the keeper down to bare body first to determine what was there and how it all assembled, then stripped the donor down to bare body and transfered everything over to the keeper. They were both the same year and model so everything was the same and transfered over. All of the wireing in the now "keeper" was originally in the donor to include the ignition switch and I'm at the "get it running" stage and have run into THIS little surprise. My first suspicion was grounds so I've been over the thing with a fine toothed comb trying to find any I didn't hook back up and havn't been successful. Having had it stripped so completely, I saw every connection and they were the same on each truck. There is a place behind the fuse box where two ground wires go to a screw on the fuse box mount and a place on the fire wall just above it where two more go to a screw in the fire wall. The rest are screwed to the chassis or plugged to bayonets in various places on the body. If there's a ground not hooked up, I can't find it. That's not to say there isn't, Lord knows I've done stranger things. The thing acts like I've got the polarity backwards, but the batery is in the way the book says with the negative terminal mounted to the chassis. I'll check out the ignition switch and let you know what happens.

[burn_your_money]

Are you sure it's the bulb check relay and not the load reduction relay that's clicking?

You're lucky to have found 2 pickups, I've been looking for one for a long time with no luck

[Mike D.]

STRIKE UP THE BAND!!!  THE LIGHTS WORK!!  
 
I found the problem.  The only part of the electrical system I did not transfer over was the battery and cables. I didn't swap engines, the battery was already there and hooked up, so I saw no need. But, in the back of my limited crainial cavity, (and at this point it really seems limited), something was nagging about the way the negative cable was mounted. When I made the last entry and I mentioned that the battery negative cable was mounted to the chassis, the light went on and I realized what had been bothering me. It was actually mounted to the transmission mount which is mounted to the chassis in rubber. So, I ran a jump wire from the transmission mount to the ground wire on the chassis and, PRESTO, lights. Now my only issue is getting the engine running. I think the first step is to remove the existing fuel, flush the lines, change the fuel filter, put in fresh fuel, prime the injector pump, bleed the fuel rail, and see if it barks. Do you concur doctor? Good grief, the relief is almost overwhelming.
     And yes, at least I have two trucks. And what are the odds that I'd find not only two available in the same small town, but both the same year and model? The interior of the donor was in great condition and a dark blue rather than barf orange like the keeper had so it is now all in the keeper and looks great. I've already overhauled the front brakes and wheel bearings so I'll do the rears as soon as the "running" thing is solved and then it's on the road with it. I can hardly stand it. Thank you VERY much for your assistance.
     By the way, did you see the one on eBay for sale that only has forty thousand miles on it? WOW!  What a good looking truck!

[burn_your_money]

Congratulations  

Believe it or not that negative cable is in it's stock location when it is mounted ontop of the tranny mount. What a horrible design. I've also added a jumper wire (2 actaully) one to the head and one under a starter bolt. It really helps out.

I did not see the truck on ebay, I usually don't bother looking there since they sell for so much.

Your starting the engine plan sounds good to me. I'd fill the fuel filter with ATF and also fill the injection pump with ATF if you planned on draining it as well.

I forget if you've mentioned changing the timing belt or not, but defintly do that before cranking it over. If you really don't want to change the t-belt (not recommended) at least hit the belt between the cam and IP with a mallet to make sure it doesn't break.

[Mike D.]

ATF?   Isn't that transmission fluid?  This is my first experience with a diesel so I'll bow to your experience, but ATF in the fuel system? My first reaction is a certain amount of concern. Aparently it's OK or you wouldn't be recomending it, WOULD you?
  I do, however, agree about the timeing belt. I was so swept up by the "lighting" moment that I was going to get ahead of myself. Thanks for the "whoa hossie", I could have jammed things up again. That does need to be done next. If nothing else, it's cheap insurance.

[burn_your_money]

Ask around, many people recommend ATF (yes, Auto tranny fluid) for it's cleaning properties. It's most commonly used when changing the fuel filter because it's easier to get ahold of then diesel fuel.  I personally used it when I changed my fuel filter.

For the timing belt you need special tools. Personally I only use the dial indicator as there are sufficent substitutes for the rest. You need the dial indicator though to do it properly. A think it's a sears 12mm (maybe 11mm) deep socket for the IP holder, and then just a flat piece of metal for the cam holder.

For a bit more peace of mind, here is someone else recommending ATF
and one more

You wouldn't by chance have some pictures of your pickup would you?

[Mike D.]

Huh...   Who knew? I have to assume the ATF will burn through the thing. That's something I'd have never thought of.

I don't have a dial indicator, but I do have a very good manual and I'm confident the tool will cost less than a mechanic so I'll be going to get one tomorrow.

I don't have pictures of the truck, but could solve THAT easily enough. Can I send them through this forum?

[burn_your_money]

A diesel engine will burn pretty much anything (for a period of time anyways). ATF is safe though, I just buy the cheapest stuff.

Good luck finding the dial indicator locally, well actually it's more the adaptor piece that you need. I've never dealt with the website before but I've seen it recommended from other people on this board click here

I'm not sure what you mean by "sending pictures through the forum"? You can post them if you have web hosting. If you don't you could email them to me at [email protected]
You can get your own hosting at imageshack.com or photobucket.com as well

[macsdub]

yea atf is fine for priming filters+the such
yea that ground sucks
i add aux ones from the trans to the body
 from a starter mounting bolt to the batt neg
i had a starter not work once after a complete rustoleum rebuild engine because the paint was so thick  it didnt make a ground till i added one
 and check your alt ground strap too

[Mike D.]

There's a Snap on truck that goes through here weekly and I figure I'll get the tools from him. I prefer to deal local as much as possible. If I can't get it locally, I'll do the web site thing.

 In the mean time, I'll get going on the fuel stuff while I'm waiting for the tools since I'm sure I'll have to order them.

 I havn't been dealing with computers long enough to know ANYthing about this "hosting" you're talking about. My brother calls me a "techno peasant" if that tells you anything. It's all I have been able to do to wade through what I do on them. I certainly don't want to cloud the water trying to add to the skill bank, so I'll just stick with e-mails. The truck is in the garage right now and the light isn't good enough, even with a flash, to get a good picture. It just comes out as a dark shadow with a few high lights. But, as soon as I get it out, I'll take some and send them. Is yours operational? I'm confident mine will be before long now. It needs a little minor body work and a good paint job, but there are no rusted out spots so it shouldn't be bad. I don't much care for the sanding part, but it has to be done.