Oil filter conversion kit

[jtanguay]

if you can get them cheaper than $190 a piece, we want some!

I messaged the guy on ebay selling the cummins kit.  I asked him where his hoses splice into (I was thinking  it splices into a sensor or something... I would be very skeptical about splicing into say.... my turbo oil feed line?)

I'd say splice into an oil sensor on the head, and get a tee fitting to keep the sensor there.

forgot to add.  yes it comes with taps on top... all you need is your own oil lines etc.

[saurkraut]

Here's one that gives you a few options on dumping it in the pan, drain plug, or valve cover.  found it on the TDi page.

http://www.oilguard.com/Auto.php?PHPSESSID=856016b27ad6e52806a862bc8b9018ef

This is not the TP element type

Glad to see we have reached an understanding on soot suspension.

[jtanguay]

so this website says to use the oil sender port, and use a T to reconnect the oil pres sender.  Pretty cool!

I like the idea of re-introducing the oil into the pan, although the valve cover isn't a bad idea.  Anyone know where we can get a T to hook into the oil pres sender???

[wyldman]

Bypass filtration does work,and can greatly extend oil change intervals.You can pick up better and cheaper units out there,just shop around.Some can even be made to use a roll of toilet paper as a filter (new of course :lol: ).

They need to be plumbed into anywhere you have oil pressure.It can be at the filter,cyl head,whereever there is oil pressure,it doesn't matter.

Iit is very low flow,they use an inline restrictor,so oil can be returned anywhere.The valve cover makes the most sense,as it's easy,and very little chance of leaks,unlike the oil pan.

To make these things work,you need to use a very good quality synthetic oil which supports long drain intervals.You still need to change filters (both the main oil filter,and the bypass),at normal recommended intervals.You have to add makeup oil for the filters,and anything lost between changes.You need to do oil sampling,to see when the oil starts to breakdown,or if it is getting contaminated\dilluted.If you stick to the routine,they work.

For most people,it's way to much work,and too much money to put on a regular everyday car.You also must drive a lot of mileage to make it pay off.That is why you usually only see these systems used on big long haul trucks.There is too much oil contamination on vehicles used for short trips and stop and go driving.

By the time you add up your costs,for the filter kit,all the plumbing,etc,the filters,makeup oil,the original cost of extended drain synthetic,etc, it will be more cost effective to just do a regular oil change at the recommended interval.Why reinvent the wheel ?

[jtanguay]

well my main reason for wanting it, is because of the black soot in my oil wreaking havoc on my engine parts.  Synthetic can last 25'000km or so on a gas vehicle, and about 10'000km on a diesel (I wouldn't go further on a diesel because of soot contamination)

[wyldman]

If your using a good synthetic,and changing at 10,000 Km,then you have nothing to worry about.Just because the oil is black,does not mean it's wreaking havoc on your engine.

Do some oil sampling,at the 8000 Km mark or so,they will tell you exactly when you need to change it,and just how dirty it is.