oil pressure starting up a new rebuild

[greyrabbit]

I'll be starting up my rebuilt engine in the next few days.  When starting I'll crank the engine over without powering the run solenoid on the pump to hopefully prime the oil system.  When I fire it up I'll measure pressure at oil filter bracket and also at the fitting on the end of the cylinder head just above the heater outlet with mechanical guages.   I'll basically idle the engine until the thermostat opens then shut down and re-torque the head.

My question is during the initial idle period if I haven't screwed something (or things!) up what pressure should I see at the oil filter housing and what pressure should I see at the cylinder head?  

Rotella 15W-40, ambient termperature 70 F

[Justin]

is the motor a mechanical or hydrallic lifter head? mechanical everything that I have had or seen idles at around 80-90 psi on start up at idle, then when fully warm settles in at about 10 psi but will still hit 95 psi if its wound out

later
Justin

[jtanguay]

Your best bet may be to spin the oil pump with either a drill, or maybe by hand.  I'd think that if you lubed up all necessary parts, you should be ok.

[greyrabbit]

Yes, it is a mechanical head, thanks for the info.  Do you have any idea
what I'll see at the port at the end of the cylinder head?

[scopefrfd]

Before you put the engine in and the timing belt...get a cordless 18v screwgun and attach it to the intermediate shaft pulley bolt with a 19mm socket.  Spin the intermediate shaft counterclockwise and that'll prime the engine...make sure the vacuum pump is in and locked down, that's what drives the pump.   Set the screwgun clutch so it just turns the shaft...once it primes it'll get much harder to turn and the clutch will engage..now the engine is primed.  Set the clutch tighter and leave the oil pressure switch

[clbanman]

I am new to diesels, but I do know that on a gasser you should not do your initial startup at idle speed only.  See this link from Crane Cams for procedure. I would assume that lower rpms would be acceptable for a diesel, but it should still be higher than a straight low idle, and the rpm cycling is very important for proper cam lubrication. http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/548e.pdf

[scopefrfd]

Crane Cams really pertains to the domestic market...you need rpms to prevent the cams from going flat...also holdstrue with vw aircooled engines.  vw watercooled cams never go flat under normal conditions...they're that good.  But a diesel needs to work to seat the rings...so once you get it started go up and down some good sized hills on the highway and vary your rpm alot...don't let it sit at one rpm or one load setting.  Hills are great for that.  Switch from 4th and 5th and do some city driving when you take off don't baby it.  And do not use synthetic for the 1st 10k.

[QuickTD]

Crane Cams really pertains to the domestic market...you need rpms to prevent the cams from going flat...

A domestic V6/V8 relies solely on splash from the spinning crank for camshaft lubrication. It's important to keep the crank spinning fast during the first few minute of operation to prevent galling of the cam tips.

 I still wouldn't idle it too long, just long enough to check for leaks then get it under load to seat the rings. The oil pressure won't really be valid until its fully warmed up, which will take forever at idle. Mine takes about 10 miles of driving to stabilize. As long as it registers more than 28psi above 2000rpm it's fine.

[VelocityConservation]

When ever I am evaluating an engine, rebuild, new or other, I am looking for at least 10psi per 1000 rpm.

VelocityConservation

[jtanguay]

isn't there special lubricants that are used to 'prime' the camshaft?  I've never done a rebuild, so I'm just wondering...