Author Topic: So which clutch do I buy and where, in Canada? (Read 2728 times)

Topherdiesel · « **on:** October 01, 2004, 06:21:29 am »

I know I need a stronger clutch, so what do I buy. Which clutch, pressure plate, flywheel even??
And where is the hookup in Canada for ths boys and girls, its driving me nuts, having felt the fueling mod, that I have to drive around without it!!!

RAMMSTEIN · « **Reply #1 on:** October 01, 2004, 08:46:24 am »

Where are you from buddy? :?:

racer_x · « **Reply #2 on:** October 01, 2004, 08:33:43 pm »

Quote from: "Topherdiesel"

I know I need a stronger clutch, so what do I buy. Which clutch, pressure plate, flywheel even??
And where is the hookup in Canada for ths boys and girls, its driving me nuts, having felt the fueling mod, that I have to drive around without it!!!

The 210mm setup is stronger and holds more torque than the early 200mm and 190mm setups.

To change to that, you'll need a new pressure plate, flywheel and clutch. That's the standard clutch and flywheel for the 1.8L gas engines for the A2 Golfs and Jettas and even the 1.8L Cabriolets and Sciroccos.

There was a stronger pressure plate used on the 16V engines, but most places that sell clutches and pressure plates now sell the same pressure plate for 16V and 8V applications. If you can find a genuine 16V pressure plate (3 straps), those are slightly stronger than the 8V versions.

If I were in your situation, I'd look for the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate for a 1.8L A2 GTI. It will all bolt right up to your engine and transmission.

Don't forget fresh bolts for the pressure plate (6 of them) and flywheel (9 of them). Also, it's a good idea to replace the rear main seal on the engine while you're in there. The part isn't horribly expensive, and with the pressure plate off, you've done all the labor of changing it. And change the transmission seals inside the bell housing while you have it apart (input shaft seal, clutch pushrod bushing and seal). Again, the parts are cheap, and the labor is all done when you have it far enough apart to change the clutch.

Dr. Diesel · « **Reply #3 on:** October 01, 2004, 09:43:03 pm »

call dave at eurodrive clutches in burlington, ont. I'm very pleased with my 210mm lightened setup with a kevlar disc.

Topherdiesel · « **Reply #4 on:** October 03, 2004, 10:32:39 pm »

I'm In thornhill, and dr diesel, how much was the setup?

hillfolk'r · « **Reply #5 on:** October 17, 2004, 06:55:42 pm »

get a centerforce dual friction,get a 210 mm setup,,and a gas 210 fw,,,verify your timing marks,,they do not line up and u will be screwed when engine is in car,,remove #1 inj,and fish a wire thru to piston,,,basically u need to mace a new "0" mark,,other than that,,mines awesome,,grabs great,,ive burned up 3 stockers in a year,,too much power,i dont get 2nd gear chirpees,,its chirp turns to wheelspin ,and the clutch is plenny stout looks like they doubled up on the cush drive springs in the disc,,has less driveline "slop" on+off gas,ya know??mine was like 230 from nopi which was cheaper than centerforce wanted,,even though i just supported more rice crap,i got a better deal,,enjoy folken

Cheesetoast · « **Reply #6 on:** October 17, 2004, 07:38:31 pm »

i'm gonna be getting my clutch replaced with the mk2 16v 2l cltuch/pressure plate and lightened flywheel. What do i need to tell the guy who's gonna be doing it? can he damage something if that's not lined up? :?:

Quote from: "hillfolk'r"

get a centerforce dual friction,get a 210 mm setup,,and a gas 210 fw,,,verify your timing marks,,they do not line up and u will be screwed when engine is in car,,remove #1 inj,and fish a wire thru to piston,,,basically u need to mace a new "0" mark.