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Life ain't nothing but tools and tricks by fatmobile on 01 Jan, 2026 15:30
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Here's my trick for the wallowed-out alternator pivot bolt holes:
alternator shim by vwfatmobile, on Flickr
I cut a spear-shaped piece from stainless tubing.
Set it into the place where the hole was out of round and worn down.
Tapped it in using the bolt, still had to use a rat tail file to make it so the bolt didn't bind. -
#1 by fatmobile on 01 Jan, 2026 16:01
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They didn't put a nice coolant drain valve anywhere on the MK1.
Just pull the lower radiator hose and have a wide container?
That doesn't drain the block very well.
Pull the thermostat housing? There's a mess.
There isn't a nice way to drain the block when draining the cooling system for the MK1.
In walks "The Easy-Drain" setup (to some dramatic music):
waterpumpdraintap by vwfatmobile, on Flickr
I tap the lowest part of the waterpump housing to 1/8" NPT.
Then plug it with a square head plug.
When I first tried this I thought putting a brass drain valve there would be a good idea.
A 1/8"NPT brass valve with a drain hole down through the center doesn't have much metal.
It snapped off mid-flight and we lost a good engine that day.
Lesson learned: use a plug.
To drain the radiator, I loosen the lower radiator hose clamp and slide a flathead screwdriver in between the flange and under the hose.
Coolant flows down the screwdriver, hits the handle and drops in a container.
If you have power steering it will be in the way, making this "The Not So Easy Drain" (less dramatic music). -
#2 by ORCoaster on 01 Jan, 2026 21:45
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But I like the taste of antifreeze all over the hands and face when I have to drain the system. I have thought of the drain plug/valve and wondered if that would be a better option. Knowing it might snap off and drain in dry under power is enough to know so I don't try it.
I loosen the bolts on the thermostat and let most of the coolant just drain slowly into a bucket while I pull other things off the engine. By the time I am done doing that there isn't much left and I can get the flange off and catch the rest of the coolant.
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#3 by fatmobile on 02 Jan, 2026 00:27
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I've been putting the easy drain in all 1.6Ds without power steering I've worked on in last ten years or more.
When it comes time to drain the coolant I grab the drill and a 5/16" bit.
Using the plug there hasn't been 1 problem with it leaking. -
#4 by sgnimj96 on 02 Jan, 2026 16:02
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I've often felt oppressed by the stock just remove the thermostat "correctly" drain coolant.
That also guarantees to awkwardly spill and soil the coolant.
If you're not changing the thermostat, it unnecessarily introduces other potential problems,
i.e. hot coolant on the hands being the first. Then ending up with possible leaks from the lower hose or thermostat seal.
Then there are those little 10mm bolts that eat away at the aluminum housing every time they are loosened/tightened. Strip those out = DOUGH!
Good R&D, Fatmobile. Another DIY win against the finks of the Super Villain Alliance
of Gotham (VAG).
I assume brass plugs would be the way to go, then I fell down a rabbit-hole of these...
https://boatzincs.com/pages/engine-zinc-specs-complete.html
btw, chatgpt says the anodes don't do much, but a lot of big dogs actually use anodes.
I just like the idea of any corrosion protection and that it IS the plug for the secret drain,
might cause cavitation tho
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#5 by fatmobile on 03 Jan, 2026 11:11
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Edit that post one more time to say 1/8" NPT.
And 7/32 is less than a 1/4" so that can't be the right size for a 1/8" NPT tap.
"11/32" drill is recommended by some: 'R' drill size actually (.3390"). 11/32" is closest fraction (.3437")."
From this site:
https://www.weldingweb.com/threads/what-size-drill-bit-for-1-8-npt-tap.27450/
Which is a little bigger than 5/16. 5/16" does seem a little too small when I use it, but it still works and I have several of those bits.
I've been using steel square-head plugs.
I do wrap them in teflon tape,.. but am working my way away from teflon because of the chemicals needed to make it.
AI: convenience is the promise. Dependency is the goal.
Anodes for engines? Like water heaters?
First I've heard of that.
Looks like it's for marine use,.. they use lake water to cool the engine right? -
#6 by ORCoaster on 03 Jan, 2026 11:46
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When it comes to Teflon tape for threads I have been under the impression for a long time that the tape is used for making the threads slip together better. For lubrication purposes. But it would be used in a dry application.
Pipe dope or plumbers dope would be used for a sealant. But being wet it acts as a lube as well.
Some plumbers use them both, tape then dope the threads. I do that when using stainless threads, female or male and some other metal. I find that stainless seems to be sharper or the pitch is off just a bit from how the threads are cut and that stainless thread just doesn't bite well to a brass or copper mate. Two coppers fit much better and using only one of the two compounds seem to work without fail. But not so with the stainless. Don't know why, may be operator error, can't deny that .
And yes 7/32 hole will be a bugger to tap out to for a 1/4 inch pipe thread. Just too much material to remove. 1/64th inch increments were always my grand dads choice and he was a tool and die man by profession. Can't argue with experience now can ya, or with grand pa.
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#7 by sgnimj96 on 03 Jan, 2026 15:03
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doh, yes for 1/8npt tap a 5/16" bit will make a tight-perfect hole for tapping
the aluminum housing.
I was kinda eyeing those 1/4npt anode plugs because you get more anode,
but looks like that would be too big.
Never heard of those things before. Opinions are all over the place. Plenty say Nah,
others like this say Ye https://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/anodes.74/
One thing that may happen is it wears out the coolant faster, so people say it's
not worth it. I'm not pushing for anodes, just thought it was cool that they are also pipe plugs.
I'm not even sure why or how I stepped in that rabbit hole, but I do know
we run a lot of old iron blocks and alumium components.