oil in exhaust on rebuilt 1.6na

[oblique]

ok so warm comp test was 460-460-470-480

BUT...in the process I noticed a leaky injector....taking it out revealed fuel in the bore as well...turns out the nozzle wasnt seated flat as there was corrosion on the inside of the injector body that the nozzle sits in.

Idles better for sure, we will see how it starts up cold.

The return line is rubber but the supply is the translucent blue one that McMaster-Carr sells. no bubbles in there.

[fatmobile]

 I took an old heat shield, cut an emory cloth disc over it,
and a small, long bolt through it.
 It's used to clean up the area where the heat shield sits.

[oblique]

the issue was the injector itself...the nozzle wasnt seated parallel to the body...there was built up corrosion in the bottom half of the injector body that was preventing it from sitting straight in the injector body...so wasnt sealing against heatshield OR injector internals.

[ORCoaster]

See doing a comp test on it solved all your worldly problems.  Just like I thought.    Ahem, ahem.

Nice to find those never knew that before things on the car as you wrench on it.  Definitely a great find.  Hope all is well now.  MPG should go up as well as smoothed out idle speed.

[oblique]

The saga continues...

Turns out I was running full synthetic the whole time....Mopar Diesel DPF 10902 is full despite no mention on the labels. Switched to T4, now my exhaust smells like cats a$$hole.

I get hesitation at low throttle position. Coasting in town the car will start to bog down and lurch forward and back, I have to give it juice to get over it but then my 1.6 powerplant takes over and puts me back in my seat..since my floor and seat support bridge is gone I go WAY back.

Cold start issues persist.

Going to give it some more miles with the other oil but it doesnt explain everything, I dont think.

[fatmobile]

I'd try advancing it more than .97

[chi1337]

that lurching sounds like fuel pump issues;
- air in the fuel lines
- give it some more fuel (fuel screw), 1/4 turn

[oblique]

What typically causes white smoke on a warm motor without the advance pulled? I get a fair amount even on medium accel. Am I still dealing with timing or do I have injector issues...I rebuilt and set them up properly but with used nozzles that I cleaned and polished.

Haven't adjusted anything yet.

[ORCoaster]

White smoke is either bad timing, or a leak in the cooling system as far as I know.  Bump that timing up to 1.0 - 1.05 and see if it goes away.