Please help me get my JX 1.6TD running!

[ghostrider2]

Hello everyone.

I've spent the last year swapping a 1.6TD JX into my 1981 VW Vanagon (replacing a broken 1.7KY NA Motor). I've swapped everything from a donor vehicle that I test drove shortly before removing the motor and transmission. In the process I replaced most the seals and sensors (aside from the head gasket and injector pump).

It's now finally in my bus, cranks and starts with the cold start pulled all the way out. When I give it gas or push the cold start back in it sputters and dies. Here's what I've checked so far:

• Set the belt timing to TDC
• Set the injection pump timing to 0.9
• Bled the injector lines
• Fed fuel directly into the injector from a clean container to bypass the filter and make sure it wasn't a filter problem
• Checked for power at the solenoid and glow plugs - yes

I have photos and video of the following but can't post them to the forum. I'll update the thread if I get permission.

• A photo of the injector pump timing set to 0.9.
• A video of the engine running and (you can't see it) but I push the cold start cable in and it stalls out. Please ignore the unfortunately timed air compressor turning on right at the end. You'll also hear my garage mate spraying the compressed air in the background (that's not my motor!)
  
• a video of it running roughly and you can see the bypassed fuel system. Is it curious no fuel is coming out of the return line?
  

Only thing I can think of is to advance the pump timing but I don't really want to move it forward from the recommended settings until I've exhausted everything else. Thanks in advance for your help!

[fatmobile]

 I think your instincts are right.
 The cold start lever is a great indicator of how well the timing is set.
I don't think .9 is the recommended setting.
 At least around here it's closer to 1.

[ORCoaster]

I would like to see you bump that pump to 1.25 and see what it does.  Is this an engine with a turbo?  Those should have 155 bar injectors so you can overcome some of the extra pressure that comes with increasing the air into the cylinder.  At the same time, you have increased the pressure and you need to inject the fuel earlier so it will take advantage of the increase and force that piston down sooner and you get the benefit of the extra power. 

That is what I have going in the 1.6 diesel with a turbo on my PU and it seems to do better than if I run a standard 90 or an enhanced 1.05 mm timing. 

[ghostrider2]

Thanks y'all. That's encouraging because adjusting pump timing is something I know how to do now! 

And, yes, it has a turbo. Just the standard VW version though. Nothing fancy.

[ghostrider2]

Here's the photos and videos as promised now:

Here is a photo of the injector pump timing set to 0.9:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/064BC4MzcBHpJ-pwJGzne6cqQ

Here's a video of the engine running and (you can't see it) but I push the cold start cable in and it stalls out. Please ignore the unfortunately timed air compressor turning on right at the end. You'll also hear my garage mate spraying the compressed air in the background (that's not my motor!)

https://share.icloud.com/photos/03fCAdrAbU6B01hHT0huztHBQ

And here's a video of it running roughly and you can see the bypassed fuel system. Is it curious no fuel is coming out of the return line?

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0a9Tmg8i1T0ZJb6v9h6M-1vEw

[ORCoaster]

By all technical means you are timed at 89.8 mm. note the small dial and you have two more increments to go before you hit.  90 mm,  I know it is tough to get it spot on but that is where you are at.

Since it is only at idle I would say no fuel return to the bucket is probably expected.  Rev it up to 15 or 1800 and see what pumps through it. 

Quite the clacker I say.  Almost like it was over-timed.  Oh wait, that is with the CS knob out, so that adds a few degrees advance to the system.  Now how many MM is that?  I don't remember.  Dang. 


Keep at it.  and check that alternator support bracket for cracks, it looks wobbly to me, I wouldn't like to run it that way.

[fatmobile]

 There should be fuel returning even at idle.
 There is a restrictor in the OUT bolt that can get clogged.
 In fact the hole in that bolt is so small you might have a hard time finding it.
There is a screen inside the bolt that is supposed to keep that hole from plugging but it doesn't always work.
 You should try backflushing it.
 Or vacuum from the end of the bolt, or both.
 
 I still think your problem is retarded timing but no flow from your pump will be your next problem once timing is right.

[RabbitJockey]

there should always be fuel flowing through the return, the pump needs that flow to cool itself.

[ghostrider2]

Thanks for all the tips y’all. In the meantime I had a shorted aux water pump cause a few wires to burn and so I had to spend some time rewiring my harness.   

But now that that’s done and a new pump is installed I advancing the timing to around 1.1mm and cleared the fuel lines of air. She starts and runs (I also ran a can of diesel purge through)! 🤩 The issue now seems to be that she’s only running on three cylinders (1, 2 & 3). 😣

Here is a video of the engine at idle and with a bit of gas. You can hear the angry tapping: https://share.icloud.com/photos/0cevD_-jF2FnmQGLgc_J9Y_QQ

Then here’s one of me checking the injectors and you can see there’s little reaction when I loosen injector number 4: https://share.icloud.com/photos/0ec8jX9MFZYJgiMPiahyXEBDg

Could the timing be advanced too far now? Anything else I should check before tearing apart the injector itself?

[ORCoaster]

Pull that #4 bad actor outta there and clean it up.  I use a 10-power hand lens to look at the injector tips and sometimes I am amazed to see how much build-up is on them.  They do clean up with solvent and a soft brass brush.  It is burned on diesel, coke if you will, so it is not going to come off without some effort.  If You have an ultrasonic cleaner they are the best tool to use for that job.

I don't but I do test them with a pop tester to get them back to proper BAR pressure. 

[fatmobile]

   I don't know if you have access to an injector tester.
 I've heard of folks taking the injection pump lines off,
putting them back on facing up with the injectors on and cranking it.
 Sounds like it could be messy.

[ORCoaster]

Oh my goodness,  That would have fuel spraying everywhere.  But you could potentially contain each injector in a plastic see-through dish and MAYBE determine what kind of spray you have coming out of each one.  I would just go get a cheap injector pump from Harbor Freight if I didn't already have one.  It is always mounted on the bench just in case I have a strange noise under the hood.  I can pull the injector and check it in less than five minutes. 

[fatmobile]

 Yep, it is nice to have an injector tester nearby.
 Then I reform the heat shields before reusing them.

[ghostrider2]

Alright. Thanks for the tips. Time to source an injector tester. No one thinks it’s still the timing?

[ORCoaster]

Timing should be OK where you have it ghostrider2. 

Fatmobile, there are those on this forum that will shake their heads at that reforming habit of yours.  But I am of like mind and manner.  As long as you inspect them well for cracks in the center and replace them when they show up I can't see why reuse isn't a good thing. 

I do have a set of 4 on hand at all times however should I need them. 

I would hate to get stuck taking all of them off and having a mass failure event happen and need them to get back up and running.