help! I need a head gasket

[jstaton]

I just acquired a 1991 Jetta diesel (1.6 L no turbo), 146000 miles on it, no rust and one owner. The car is solid, but in need of maintenance. It has never had the timing belt changed, all of the drive belts have been stretched to their limit, the dash lights don't work and there is a nice clunk in the right front (probably a strut). I drove it up from NJ it made the 300 mile trip with no problems. However, when I was about to make the trip, the previous owner informed me that there was oil in the radiator fluid, "but not to worry, it has always done that".  It does not have radiator fluid in the oil, but obviously it needs a head gasket.
My question is what is the difference between a two notch and a three-notch gasket? What about using a metal gasket? Are there any difficulties in changing the timing belt? Should I bother getting the head done, or just clean in and put the new gasket on. Is this a common problem?
I am new to diesel and water cooled VWs and help would be appreciated.

[burn_your_money]

The notches on the gasket denote it's thickness. Basically whatever is on the car now, get the same one.
You need special tools to do the timing on a diesel

[jtanguay]

The metal head gaskets seem to get really good reviews from everyone that uses them.  I have one on my car and have had nothing go wrong with it... yet

My problem was the oil cooler leaking coolant into my oil.  Fixed that, and no problems since!  I'm sure many people on this board would recommend switching to a metal HG for longetivity. (dont forget to buy new stretch bolts too)

[jstaton]

Thanks guys. I guess I need to take it apart to know what gasket thickness I will need. Or does it make sense to get the thinner gasket, it will raise the compression ratio. Does the turbo use the thicker gasket (to lower the compression raito)? Is the thinner typically for the non turbo?
Does anyone have a recommendation for a vendor selling timing belt tools or  gasket and timing belts?
Thanks again for the info!

[tylernt]

Unfortunately, it's not recommended to change the C/R with a different gasket. The thickness is determined by piston protrusion; too thin of a gasket and the pistons will hit the valves (or cylinder head). Too thick and the car becomes difficult to start in the winter. Fuel economy can also suffer with a too-thick gasket, not sure of all the science but it has to do with the "squish area" and "quench zone".

I got my timing tools on eBay. Another is souce is http://www.emiata.com/DieselVW/

[jstaton]

I found out that I have a three notch head gasket. (there are three holes, not three notches) What do I dress the head gasket with? I used to use hylomar gasket sealer when I did heads on healeys, aston martins, but I've never tired it on a diesel.
also are there anything that needs to be replaced while I have the head off? Should I bother getting the head rebuilt or just redo the gasket. the car has 146K (miles) on it.

[tylernt]

My car has 142K and I just did the gasket, didn't bother doing anything to the head besides having the injectors rebuilt. The top ends on these things seem to last 200K, the bottom ends 300K. Injectors probably need rebuilt around 100K.

I put my head gasket on dry, and I don't really remember anyone recommending a sealer. It probably wouldn't hurt to use a little around the water and oil holes, but I would not put anything around the cylinder rings. The incredibly high peak cylinder pressures on these engines would probably blow right through any sealant on the planet.

The 3 holes instead of notches just means you have hydraulic instead of mechanical lifters.

If you have A/C, I would recommend pulling the intermediate shaft idler pulley and removing all the 10mm bolts you see there so you can replace the pulley half of the water pump. Pumps last 100 to 150K so you might as well get it over with. You can also remove the water pump without removing the timing belt and pulley using a different method, but the A/C makes it a nasty job.

Don't forget all new head bolts and a proper triplesquare tool for them. They are TTY or stretch bolts, and trying to use a Torx WILL strip out the heads!

[fatmobile]

The 3 holes instead of notches just means you have hydraulic instead of mechanical lifters

 I don't think that's correct info. I've seen mechanical head, head gaskets with notches and holes.
 I think the hydro headgasket has the little piece with the notches/holes, on the other side of the center hump.

[745 turbogreasel]

Get the bentley(NOT Haynes/chilton,etc.) manual, it is worth the cost.

Oh, dont let the cracks between the valves bother you, they don't hurt anything.

[jstaton]

The engine I have doesn't have an oil cooler. There were three diesels offered.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_Jetta  The Three diesel engines offered in the A2 Jetta were: "a 1.6 L naturally-aspirated diesel with 52 hp (39 kW), a 1.6 L 68 hp (51 kW) turbodiesel, and a 1.6 L ECOdiesel that was sold for two model years, 1991 and 1992. The ECOdiesel made 59 hp (43 kW) and 81 ft·lbf (109 N·m) of torque." I have the 1.6 na diesel with no oil coler at the oil filter. I was hoping that I did, because it is a lot cheaper and easier to fix.

[tylernt]

Interesting. Usually when the head gasket goes, you get cylinder pressure in the cooling system and the expansion tank cap vents coolant all over the place.

I wonder if the oil in the coolant is the result of a past head gasket failure that was later repaired. It can take a long time for all the sludge to work its way out of all those coolant passages. Is there a lot of oil in the coolant or just a little? You might try a backflush of the cooling system and see if oil still appears a few days later, before pulling the head.

You should definitely change the timing belt, anyway. Broken belt = serious engine damage.

[malone]

Moved to troubleshooting. The IDI forum is for engine power-enhancements related discussion only.