Pump builder unite, Ive gotta story.

[Tomoturbo55]

1.6 TD 80 HP engine.

First I had a TD pump that ran nicely but after taping the regulator it had trouble starting. But it Got Amazing mileage and even good power with k14 turbo and n/a exhaust. It kept up with afn B5 Audi, at 1.1bar or 16-17 psi and no intercooler.  The pump got worse and worse, finally, after the pump died I opened the pump which was dirty. 

Then I got an 8 mm Eco diesel pump and k24 turbo.  I was runing a stock boost of 0.5 bar or 7.5 psi, it had good power. Max speed was 165 kmh before with k14 it was 160 kmh.

Then my pump top started leaking so I deicided to put an LDA from the old TD pump without removing the limiting pin inside, power was lower so I deicided to put a 9mm head and TD camplate from the dirty td pump on the Eco pump.

That setup seems to give me less timing. I needed to advance the pump alot to hear clatter and power and the smoke was horrible. I disabled the wastegate. I could hit 1.3 bar but it was still smoking.   I might have a boost leak!!

It took 13 seconds to get to 100 km/h. I decided to tap the regulator again to increase pump pressure and it worked fairly well.   iI needed to reduce the pump timing because the clatter increased and I got my 0-100 kph to 10 seconds instead of 13 before. No other adjustments were made, still with smoke, and top speed of 165 kph that speed seems a bit low compared to 0.5 bar no smoke Eco pump.

My theory is that timing advance is not going all the way or the LDA is messing something up.  I also got vp37 timing over with 1mm less shim thickness to see what will happen. But is the same, maybe even worse, so my theory is that the older 8mm pump might not have LFB adjustment.
It also has a softer spring inside, compared to TD regulator number 12 but that's just it.

Does anybody have any possible fix?

Should I try to put the n/a pump top back again and try like that?

I've dissembled a third TD pump, cleaned everything, put it back together and the vane pump moves freely. Everything looks good. I cleaned it but it won't draw fuel.

Can a completely dry and cleaned pump create a vacuum to pull fuel or should I prime it a little so it can create pulling force?



Wow, that was an incredible amount of editing. I hope I kept the intent of the message but I can't be sure.  Time to read it again later.  ORCoaster.

[libbydiesel]

The length of your post is fine, but the lack of appropriate capitalization, punctuation, and spelling makes it almost illegible.  I'd like to help but deciphering that is just too much work.   

[Tomoturbo55]

Sorry, I'm from Europe il' try to fix it.

[fatmobile]

Yeah, hit return every once in awhile.
Break it up so it's not just a block of words.
I can't read posts like that.

[ORCoaster]

I just got done with dinner, so I still have a fork handy.  I will take a stab at sorting it out.

Did my best, but then English was not my strong suit in school, I was more about math and science.

[Tomoturbo55]

I just got done with dinner, so I still have a fork handy.  I will take a stab at sorting it out.

Did my best, but then English was not my strong suit in school, I was more about math and science.

Thank you ORCoaster u did a great Job.

[libbydiesel]

Whenever assembling a pump, I always use petroleum jelly on the vanes of the vane pump.  If assembled without that, I think the vane pump might have a hard time developing vacuum to pull the fuel.  I also always pull a vacuum through the pump until it is completely full of fuel before trying to start one for the first time.

[fatmobile]

Right, put a vacuum on the output of the pump
 and pull fuel through the filter and pump.
It's hard for the vane pump to pull air.

Also take a look at the post about internal pump pressure before you tap the pressure regulator.
I was warned by my bosch service center guy that too much pressure can crack the case.
https://vwdiesel.cokenet.org/viewtopic.php?t=5936

[ORCoaster]

I also do as Libby suggests.  I crack the nuts on the injectors when I have the lines off too.  It doesn't take but about a five-count holding the key in the start position to get the tops wet on at least two of them.  I button them all down and have not had a problem getting it to fire up when I touch the key.

I also use the jelly to hold the springs in position when rebuilding a pump. For whatever reason, they like to fall out when I am trying to position the head on the shaft. 

[Tomoturbo55]

Ohh good news i know i assembled it right, i conected fuel lines and try to prime it with an impact driver and nothing was happening so i was wondering What was wrong.

My pump top is off now so i Will fill pump with fuel asemble it and try again.

[Tomoturbo55]

Right, put a vacuum on the output of the pump
 and pull fuel through the filter and pump.
It's hard for the vane pump to pull air.

Also take a look at the post about internal pump pressure before you tap the pressure regulator.
I was warned by my bosch service center guy that too much pressure can crack the case.
https://vwdiesel.cokenet.org/viewtopic.php?t=5936

Yes i have read that post very informativne, i try to hit that 0.4 liter flowing out od pump, i now mybe have 0.6 but i should really build that gauge from old out Bolt and see Whats truly happening.

I guess car now has a little trouble starting cause its harder to hit that preassure but it seems also fuel is leaving pump even doe i have non return valve.

[Tomoturbo55]

I also do as Libby suggests.  I crack the nuts on the injectors when I have the lines off too.  It doesn't take but about a five-count holding the key in the start position to get the tops wet on at least two of them.  I button them all down and have not had a problem getting it to fire up when I touch the key.

I also use the jelly to hold the springs in position when rebuilding a pump. For whatever reason, they like to fall out when I am trying to position the head on the shaft.

Those little springs are/were a PITA. But I got them in.

[fatmobile]

One guy tried to use a drill on the injection pump bolt to turn the pump and prime it.
 He broke the nose of the mainshaft off.
 It's pretty thin right there where the threads are.

[Tomoturbo55]

One guy tried to use a drill on the injection pump bolt to turn the pump and prime it.
 He broke the nose of the mainshaft off.
 It's pretty thin right there where the threads are.

The initial start is the worst, but once it gets moving it spins okay. It's an impact wrench, I forgot what it was called.

[Tomoturbo55]

Little update:

It looks like the TD pump does not really like the n/a pressure regulator.  So after fitting the TDI regulator on it is a much better improvement, no smoke at all power is a little better too could use more fuel also.

Now il' try to put VP timing spring and cap on to see if I can get even better timing. Then build a gauge to see my actual pump pressure.

I've noticed after measuring the return flow and adjusting the new pressure regulator, that after shutting down the engine I can see fuel slowly draining from to return to my bottle. This is causing harder starting when the car is sitting a little longer.

This also happened with the old pressure regulator.  Can this be because the regulator is not tight enough or the regulator is worn a little not keeping fuel inside the pump?

Or maybe a 12volt shut down valve not closing completely?