1.6 Diesel torque specs

[unitedracing]

Hey everyone. I've been looking for fastener torque specs for my 1.6 and can't find much online. I have the mains/rods/head stud specs but can't find a listing for the rest like injection pump mounts, water pump, seal plates etc. Any links? I have a manual on order, but its taking forever! Thanks

[fatmobile]

 Those are all bolts that I don't use a torque wrench for.
 I just tighten them up snug.
 
 Off topic but I will say,
 the intermediate shaft bolt and seal carrier bolts for it get some blue locktite.
 Along with all the bolts holding the injection pump brackets to each other and the block.

[libbydiesel]

An often overlooked fact (that isn't listed in the manuals) is that if you had the pump bracket parts removed from the block, then you will need to adjust their position relative to each other and the block in order to adjust the timing belt tracking.  Because the timing belt and pump need to be removed in order to adjust the tracking, it is best to check it and adjust it as soon as possible (or else a lot of time can be wasted assembling things that need to be removed again).  The timing belt needs to track in the center of the injection pump sprocket and it needs to not rub against the back of the crankshaft pulley.  If you need more details let me know.  It really sucks to get the engine into the car and all buttoned up only to find out that the belt tracks off the face of the pump sprocket and lots of things need to be pulled apart to fix it. 

[unitedracing]

An often overlooked fact (that isn't listed in the manuals) is that if you had the pump bracket parts removed from the block, then you will need to adjust their position relative to each other and the block in order to adjust the timing belt tracking.  Because the timing belt and pump need to be removed in order to adjust the tracking, it is best to check it and adjust it as soon as possible (or else a lot of time can be wasted assembling things that need to be removed again).  The timing belt needs to track in the center of the injection pump sprocket and it needs to not rub against the back of the crankshaft pulley.  If you need more details let me know.  It really sucks to get the engine into the car and all buttoned up only to find out that the belt tracks off the face of the pump sprocket and lots of things need to be pulled apart to fix it.

Its funny you bring that up, and I'm glad you did. I remember someone else having that issue a while back but can't find the info. So yes, I would love to know how to check and adjust as necessary. I was thinking of assembling to a point where the belt is on and rotating the engine several cycles manually. Would it be easier to install the unfinished engine in the vehicle and use the starter? It's going in an '83 vanagon. On another note...I think its your method I'll be using to bleed the cooling system when the time come. Thanks

[fatmobile]

Right, don't hook up the injector lines before you rotate the pump a few times.
 Because you might be pulling it back off to adjust the belt.
 
 Putting just one of the rear bracket bolts in with the plan to pull the pump and finish the job is probably fastest.
Because the right bolt is easy to get to with the pump on.
 Adjust the pump and tighten the right one where you want it.
 Then pull the pump,  blue locktite the left one in tight.
 Then pull the right one and blue it before install.

[libbydiesel]

There have been a couple times when I needed to adjust the pump bracket part that bolts to the pulley side of the engine block.  Often only the smaller piece behind the injection pump needs adjustment. 

To get the belt to track closer to the block (most often what is needed), the sprocket side of the pump needs to go DOWN relative to the end with the metal lines which needs to go UP.  Getting the belt on and rotating by hand can give a very good idea of the tracking.  Get the pump and belt on with the belt where it should be on the sprockets.  Rotate 10 or so crank revolutions and see if the belt wanders at the pump sprocket and adjust accordingly. 

[fatmobile]

It usually needs the rear of the pump pulled up
to draw the belt closer to the pump,
also know as not running off the outer edge of the sprocket, ha.
 A pry bar between the alternator bracket and pump bracket sometimes works.

 It doesn't move easy,...or far.