Author Topic: Best Engine Internal Treatment product  (Read 3004 times)

August 07, 2006, 11:24:10 pm

dubCanuck1

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« on: August 07, 2006, 11:24:10 pm »
Hi all,

OK, had to rename the topic. Ceramic coating it is. What's the best product to use?

Reply #1August 08, 2006, 10:24:07 am

MacGyver

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« Reply #1 on: August 08, 2006, 10:24:07 am »
Err, do you mean ceramic coating?
Cryo is a process, not a product, and IMHO not worth it for engine parts unless mebbe you're John Force :shock:

Reply #2August 10, 2006, 12:11:27 am

dubCanuck1

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« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2006, 12:11:27 am »
Suppose I should bump this since I changed the topic.

Reply #3August 10, 2006, 11:38:29 am

Master ACiD

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« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2006, 11:38:29 am »
throw a bottle of engine restore in there.  :lol:

Reply #4August 10, 2006, 01:08:48 pm

jtanguay

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« Reply #4 on: August 10, 2006, 01:08:48 pm »
I want to try out oil extreme's concentrated additive package (http://www.oilextreme.com), but for a really good anti friction the surfaces of the metal must be coated.  I am wondering about moly coatings, for the piston skirts, then the ceramic coating for the chambers + piston crowns.


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Reply #5August 10, 2006, 01:17:51 pm

Benjamin

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« Reply #5 on: August 10, 2006, 01:17:51 pm »
its maybe a dumb question,
why coating something? are the internals not good enough?  :roll:

Greetz, Benjamin
SMOG alert, engine running again!
Must make +250hp

Reply #6August 10, 2006, 05:27:24 pm

jtanguay

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« Reply #6 on: August 10, 2006, 05:27:24 pm »
Quote from: Benjamin
its maybe a dumb question,
why coating something? are the internals not good enough?  :roll:

Greetz, Benjamin


I would say why not?  I was reading that in a blow torch test (I think around 4000F or maybe higher?) the piston without the coating melted.  The piston with the coating just started to droop. (took longer to get droopy than the non coated piston took to melt btw)

Basically means that more of the heat is reflected into the combustion chamber, which then means that your engine will run a hell of a  lot better in the winter time and on cold starts.  Not to mention the fact that you can run more fuel without worrying too much about the pistons (next come valves, chambers, etc)

I know you will say 'but our engines have oil squirters'.   Ever go on a long hill climb, only to find your temp spike up?  Yep its because the oil is heating up from your turbo + your pistons transfering the heat to your oil.  If you can keep the heat where it belongs, you will have a cooler running motor, and it will be more efficient.  Of course the turbo will see the extra temp, but its made for it right?  :D

If you coated everything, egt's of 1600F wouldn't hurt your motor that bad... maybe just the compressor wheel :idea:   I wonder if that can be coated, or if it will make it off-balance  :?:

I think overall the main reason for coating the internal parts on an IDI diesel engine is to be able to decrease the compression ratio and still have reliable cold starts.  This is due in part because more of the heat created by compression is kept where it belongs.


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Reply #7August 10, 2006, 10:40:55 pm

dubCanuck1

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« Reply #7 on: August 10, 2006, 10:40:55 pm »
Well, my main reason was to keep the combustion heat in the air in the engine, not saturating the head and block, losing power and increasing wear.

The engine's all apart right now, so it's the best time to do it.