Author Topic: BURN THE BIT*H! (Read 5799 times)

SMOKEYDUB · « **on:** July 31, 2006, 03:37:48 pm »

I am sick and tired of my damn car. Ok heres the problem, from a cold start i can start drivin and my engine warms up at normal speedafter driving for like 3 mins the temp gauge goes up to the 3/4 mark then drops down to half which i believe is the thermostat opening.I then proceeded to drive 35 kms at 60 km/hr and about 2 kms from my house the temperature sky rockets to just before the red light coming on. keep in mind that there was no abuse while i was driving this hole time i also loose my heat when the temp sky rockets. so obviously i keep getting air locks. BUT FROM WERE? i have a new thermostat new expansion tank new waterpump and a new rad cap with good coolant. I checked if all the coolant flows freely and it does the rad is clean in and out and now i haev just run out of ideas. I have a feeling that i have a failed headgasket (3rd one in 4 months). i am running only 25 psi with a 1.9 mls headgasket with a permatex spray on it to seal it. i also have a set of 12.9 grade non stretching head bolts torqued to 62 ftlbs. WTF?

thanks

Jeff

burn_your_money · « **Reply #1 on:** July 31, 2006, 04:03:04 pm »

Did you drill a hole in the thermostat?

SMOKEYDUB · « **Reply #2 on:** July 31, 2006, 04:21:09 pm »

no it comes with it factory

andy2 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 31, 2006, 07:38:27 pm »

I have 12.9 grade capscrews and have had problems with metal head gasket leaking too.I first torqued them to 70 ft lts then the gasket leaked at 25-30 psi.I then retorqued the bolts to 90 ftlbs and it held much better at 30 psi.However somewhere above 30 psi it was leaking again.

This time around with new gasket I torqued the bolts to 90 or 100 ft lbs?
And I will retorque them to 110 ft lbs when I swap cams.

There is a problem when trying to retorque the gasket after it leaks It seems.I guess the coating on the gasket gets rubbed off,then if you retorque the bolts it isn't really good enough.I havn't had any coolant spewing out of my resivor yet at 90 or 100 ft lbs,with boost spiked at 40 psi for a sec :twisted: fingers crossed.

Do you have any coolant coming out of your resivor due to over pressure,or is the coolant staying in the system?

Try re torquing the bolts to 100 ft lbs,I'm going to try 110 on mine.The bolts are rated for 115-120 ftlbs max I believe.

I'd be happy if this setup holds during a hard 1/4 mile run at 35-40 psi.We'll have to wait and see.

SMOKEYDUB · « **Reply #4 on:** July 31, 2006, 07:58:19 pm »

well i have been having problems with the bolts torquing in the block i actually ripped the threads out of the block at 80 ft lbs so i get scared when toquing now. so im going to go with head studs when the head comes off.

fatmobile · « **Reply #5 on:** July 31, 2006, 10:13:21 pm »

I've heard having the timing too advanced can cause overheating issues.
Didn't see that mentioned in the list of solutions you've tried and with the freaky frankenpump you have....

jtanguay · « **Reply #6 on:** July 31, 2006, 10:33:46 pm »

I've been having some cooling issues too lately it seems. I bled the system once already, maybe just need to bleed my system out more. What would be nice on vw's is having bleed screws on obvious air pocket spaces in rad etc.

745 turbogreasel · « **Reply #7 on:** August 01, 2006, 12:25:15 am »

I never assume my new parts are good.
is the bottom of the radiator HOT?
does the water pump move water?
does the system have pressure when running hot? how about cold?
Is there debris in your motor that could be interfereing withthe 'stat?

SMOKEYDUB · « **Reply #8 on:** August 01, 2006, 05:10:54 pm »

ok well heres the real kicker i have never owned a vw with an even warm lower rad hose.my t stat does work and the pump does move the coolant.when i get the system all bled it runns fine untill over 10 psi boost or long periods of normal driving. at that point i get huge air pockets and she overheats bad. no coolant near the rad fan switch when it gets that hot so the fan doesnt come on.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #9 on:** August 01, 2006, 07:57:32 pm »

Are you positive you are getting air pockets?

Bad injectors can cause overheating apparently

jtanguay · « **Reply #10 on:** August 01, 2006, 10:40:11 pm »

do you have the regular oil/water cooler installed? Mine was a piece of ***! when driving the car pretty hard it managed to pop my oil cap off. :x Now that it's changed, I'm seeing the oil level go down a bit instead of rising (yep thats the way it SHOULD be, or not... :lol: )

Author Topic: BURN THE BIT*H! (Read 5799 times)

andy2

745 turbogreasel