-
#15
by
Benjamin
on 14 Jul, 2006 07:09
-
Delete the governor intermediate spring to gain some additional fueling, to make your fueling useful after 5000rpm you will need to increase DYNAMIC timing, to help reduce INJECTION and IGNITION lag.
Is there a FAQ or example to do this DYNAMIC timing modification myself?
i think i didnt read about it before.
How much rpm can a VE pump rev? i think the camplate-springs will start flying when doing those high revs
Place Veeman's work in the FAQ, maybe its an idea someone can host those pics?
Greetz, Benjamin
EDIT:
i found some info's on the Search about this DYNAMIC TIMING, maybe there should be a FAQ about it to. i just getting this understanded, but i cant imagine how you can get this calculated, any tips or FAQ
-
#16
by
scopefrfd
on 14 Jul, 2006 18:56
-
I have a tdi timing cover which is much deeper than the stock unit on my 11mm M-pump. If I install the cover would that increase my dynamic timing?
-
#17
by
DVST8R
on 15 Jul, 2006 00:33
-
Probably not as it would just change the preload of the spring, all of the deeper factory covers that I have seen, still stop the piston at the same place the just change the spring preload depth. In order to advace your dynamic timing you would have to mahcine out the cover to a diameter of 25mm iirc, to whatever depth you require to get the advance you are looking for. Or shave the piston.
This really is better left to a pro pump builder with a "pump dyno" that can view the rate of advance as well as the total amount of advance, but if you want to risk your pump I say go for it and make sure to report to us the results
-
#18
by
Benjamin
on 15 Jul, 2006 12:29
-
is it the number 5 we need to make shorter?
How to measure we dont get TO early??
why is this thing for? there is also a electrical contact, what can it it do??
Greetz, Benjamin
-
#19
by
Hey
on 16 Jul, 2006 11:53
-
The bottom picture is of an electric cold start timing advance mechanism.
Sorry, but it is not! Want your are taking about is on the other side.
It is a selenoïd that takes the fuel pressure from the top of the pump and report it in the timing piston chamber to counterbalance pressure and avoid timing advance. It only works when there is pressure inside the pump.
-If 0 volt is applied, the pressure is passing inside the piston chamber and there will be no timing advance
-If 12 volts is applied, the pressure is NOT passing (you always want 12volts there)
-
#20
by
Benjamin
on 16 Jul, 2006 17:17
-
The bottom picture is of an electric cold start timing advance mechanism.
Sorry, but it is not! Want your are taking about is on the other side.
Do you mean this, or where for is this?
in the upper left corner you can see a mechanisme, i thought this is for the timing advance when the engine is cold, so it should better run, its fully adjustable. when i pull on it i dont hear any difrance in rpm, i hear maybe a other sound, but maybe its in my had
It is a selenoïd that takes the fuel pressure from the top of the pump and report it in the timing piston chamber to counterbalance pressure and avoid timing advance. It only works when there is pressure inside the pump.
-If 0 volt is applied, the pressure is passing inside the piston chamber and there will be no timing advance
-If 12 volts is applied, the pressure is NOT passing (you always want 12volts there)
where for is this solenoid? i hope i understand right, but i dont see the usefulness when you always put the 12v on it.
Greetz, Benjamin
-
#21
by
Hey
on 17 Jul, 2006 09:02
-
On the first picture, I wouldn't say it's a device to advance cold timing (not sure because never had such a pump in my hand)
The other picture... I have a few pumps like that and already studied it. On the bottom of the pump (second picture) you see a selenoïd with a hose on going on the top of the pump.
If you take that selenoid off the pump and blow air inside this hose, the air will pass free and exit by the selenoïd.
However, if you put 12volt on the selenoïd, the air is NOT gonna pass free.
Then with 12volts applied... the pressure on the top of the pump cannot goes by the selenoïd and counter balance the pressure on the timing advance chamber.
-
#22
by
veeman
on 18 Jul, 2006 12:05
-
So... can anyone PM me with the "proper" names of some of the items I translated? I'm pretty sure that I got a few of them wrong. Once I have the corrections, I'll just edit my original post and then it'll be correct from here on out...
-
#23
by
DA-BRT
on 05 Jan, 2007 08:06
-
I learned rebuilding pumps at school (Autotechnical University) But one thing I havn't been able to find te last years is IP torq values.
Can anybody post the torqing values? Or have I missed them on the forum?
-
#24
by
Tintin
on 05 Jan, 2007 09:03
-
-
#25
by
DA-BRT
on 05 Jan, 2007 19:02
-
Thanks Tintin for the values. I've been searching for these for a very long time.
-
#26
by
rallydiesel
on 09 Aug, 2007 17:46
-
I can go through and give all the bosch technical names if anyone is interested. Also we need to put a disclaimer on this, there are few crucial parts of DISSASEMBLY not noted here that are integral to putting the pump together without the proper tools/equipment. IF you just take it apart and try to put it back together based on these pictures you are gonna be in for a dissapoinment. Also note that this is a ghetto rebuild, many of these parts should not be reused, but can be. Its a lot like tearing apart an engine and just re ringing it and maybe putting new bearings in. I can try to throw some tips out as I put the names in, but to do this right I would need to take pictures of the dissasembly process, which is almost as important as reassembly. I've got 4 pumps that I have completely dissambled and rebuilt that are running and driving perfectly, but the 2 pumps before those 4 good ones... well, lets just say I learned the hard way
Can you just briefly mention the parts that need to be marked during disassembly that need to be marked?
-
#27
by
Vincent Waldon
on 09 Aug, 2007 18:26
-
I'll start the list:
- take pictures of the damn throttle springs
- mark the position of the throttle shaft on the throttle arm
- measure the protrusion of the governor shaft (the one with the reverse threads)
- measure the protrusion (or count the turns) on the main fuel screw
- note the alignment of the main cam plate... specifically the pin that drives the distributor shaft... and put it back the way you found it... can easily get it 180 degrees off... use the keyway on the main shaft as a reference
Been a while so that's all I can remember of the top of my head... others will chime in I'm sure.
Vince
-
#28
by
myke_w
on 24 Aug, 2007 10:08
-
Beautiful write up,
I see no mention of the main bushing in in the pump housing. how does one go about replacing that. I have about 5 pumps on my shelf with bushings worn so badly that fuel leaks past even a new seal.