Author Topic: kkk VNT (Read 10565 times)

bigJ · « **on:** June 18, 2006, 07:18:04 pm »

I have recently purchased a VNT that is apparently off a 2005 Jetta TDI. It is not the Garrett but rather a KKK. It is a bit smaller than I wanted but none the less I want to give it a try. However in order to use this on my 81 Rabbit with 1.9 TD, I need to clock the turbo. I studied the pics from this web site but they don't show the right information.
http://www.technologie-entwicklung.de/Gasturbines/VNT15-Turbo/vnt15-turbo.html
Does anyone know if these can be clocked approx. 180? The actuator is electric powered and I ordered a plug from VW but I will still need to find out what wires do what (three wires). Any help would be appreciated.

bigJ · « **Reply #1 on:** June 18, 2006, 07:51:22 pm »

How does the vaine plate come out of the manifold? From the pics on the website it looks like maybe it is just held in by the three pins. There is a round piece on mine at the exhaust turbine side that has three notches, could this hold it together? From what I can see everything looks identical to the Garrett.

bigJ · « **Reply #2 on:** June 18, 2006, 08:03:59 pm »

Ok this should help. I had it apart but maybe I missed the torx bolts. Thanks, when I get home I will continue working on this.

dubCanuck1 · « **Reply #3 on:** June 19, 2006, 11:43:20 pm »

My VNT20 can be clocked to 3 positions without drilling extra holes. The positions are rotations of 120 degrees. Yours shouldn't be any different. If that won't accomodate your application, go with libbypapa's suggestion.

TDIMeister · « **Reply #4 on:** June 20, 2006, 10:56:37 am »

The VNT Borg Warner turbo you have would be a KP-39.

If you got it complete with the manifold, I don't see any need to clock it. All the ports and bolts should line up and be pretty much plug-and-play, except for the different downpipe flange shape and location at the turbine outlet, and having to rig up something custom for boost control.

bigJ · « **Reply #5 on:** June 22, 2006, 11:01:33 pm »

This will be going into a rabbit. I don't see anything that would cause a clearance problem other than the down pipe could interfere with the shift linkage. It looks to me that the oil inlet and outlet are reversed if I were to use it without clocking. This is comparing it to my 1.9 AZZ turbo. By the way I am using this turbo with the inlet on the passenger (right) side. I have pics but no way to display them.

jtanguay · « **Reply #6 on:** June 23, 2006, 03:05:55 am »

The 2005 model has an electronic vane actuator instead of vacuum actuated vanes. Would be neat to setup some sort of circuit to control it with throttle position + boost.

one would almost need to be an expert with electronics, or have a multimeter ready when testing the actuator on a 2005 TDI that is running.

at idle the vanes could be open for pretty much zero lag

lesharoturbo · « **Reply #7 on:** June 23, 2006, 07:44:37 pm »

Quote

The 2005 model has an electronic vane actuator instead of vacuum actuated vanes. Would be neat to setup some sort of circuit to control it with throttle position + boost.

I think there was a post here where somone rigged up a hall efect sensor to drive a tach. This would be an easy way to control the VNT according to engine speed by adapting the output through a smill micro and driver.

Bernie

bigJ · « **Reply #8 on:** June 26, 2006, 07:47:08 pm »

bigJ · « **Reply #9 on:** June 26, 2006, 08:04:34 pm »

This weekend I finally was able to mess around with the turbo. It is indeed built different than the Garrett. It was actually really simple to disassemble. Instead of drilling three separate holes all I needed was one for the alignment pin. I clocked it 180 deg. but now there is clearance problems with the actuator hitting the housing. I will have to think about this one. But the reason for clocking in the first place is because on the original application had the actuator stick straight up.

dubCanuck1 · « **Reply #10 on:** June 26, 2006, 09:55:07 pm »

Here's an idea I was working on when I had my VNT 15. I was going to create an adapter arm so that I could mount the actuator at a different angle, but have the same stroke length as the stock position.

If you're a little crafty with a grinder and some metal stock, it should work. The key is in measuring the angle of rotation as the adapter "cam"

If you're interested, I'll draw up the idea I was running with.

G60ing from vortex just bent his actuator arm to relocate it. I'm not sure how it's going to work though.

bigJ · « **Reply #11 on:** June 26, 2006, 10:07:36 pm »

I hadn’t thought of that. Seems like some kind of pivoting arm would work provided could be mounted sturdy enough. Another thing would be to use an actuator with a bent rod.

lyeinyoureye · « **Reply #12 on:** June 26, 2006, 10:13:47 pm »

If it's an electronic actuator you could probably put in an electronic tach (optical sensor off of the cam pulley) and depending on signal, just have the vanes go from open to closed in whatever interval you'd like. You could also run a post-intercooler water injector with misting nozzle off of that electronic tach signal and have the injection time increase with rpm. This would be win-win since (in correctly metered amounts) atomized water droplets should depress peak combustion temperatures, NOx emissions, and depending on the percentage that undergo phase changes, increase torque/efficiency.

Did you pick this up off of the 2005-2007 ebay listing from the guy in hollywood? :x :wink:

dubCanuck1 · « **Reply #13 on:** June 26, 2006, 11:08:49 pm »

OK, so I dug up my old drawing and fixed it where I think it went wrong. I'm not sure how yours is oriented, but this image is only of the hot side of the turbo (pretend you're looking right through the cold side)

Forgive the size. I wanted you to be able to read the text.....

Check that. I resized it. The link to the biggie is below..

The piece labelled as the "adapter bracket" should actually be referring to the big, strangely-shaped piece underneath the little "L" arm.

http://www.canadubs.com/images/large/vntActuatorRealignment.jpg

bigJ · « **Reply #14 on:** June 27, 2006, 07:36:39 am »

yes lyeinyoureye I did; $197.00 shipped. Not to bad a deal but it is a bit smaller than I expected. Although the price keeps adding up with the cost of parts: SS gasket, SS clamp and three wire connector for acuator.