Author Topic: 1.6 head troubles. (Read 4485 times)

mtnsammy · « **on:** June 10, 2006, 11:57:43 pm »

I found the over heating problem is the head again. After buying a combustion gas tester I new it was the gasket or the head still.

Well the bad news is the head gasket did not fail. That means another head job. I think I now own 2 bad heads both with cracks and both with multiple repairs. So what is the best choice?? I cannot see any cracks and all surfaces are smooth. A straight edge shows no warping. I see no abnormallities anywhere. The block is good, so the heads must be the problem. I have over 3 grand in this motor with less than 300 miles.

Should I scrap it or rebuild the heads again??

Any suggestions on good shops in So cal near San Bernardino/ Riverside?

I couldn't find any threads on using non stretch head bolts. Anyone know torque specs or threads on this thought?

jtanguay · « **Reply #1 on:** June 11, 2006, 06:06:14 am »

My overheating problem was the a/c condensor being clogged with dirt/bent fins. When I removed it I saw chunks of dirt caked into the radiator. So I used a pressure washer (going with the fins so not to bend them) and cleaned it out. The condensor was replaced with a new aftermarket one. I have not had an overheating issue since

maybe even try a rad flush? mineral deposits act as good insulators inside the rad/hoses/head.

hoyt · « **Reply #2 on:** June 11, 2006, 09:08:16 am »

Have you had the heads pressure tested?? This will tell you if
they are the problem.

mtnsammy · « **Reply #3 on:** June 11, 2006, 02:53:57 pm »

Once again I will take the heads apart. They just came from a complete rebuild. The shop even said they pressure tested them. It only bubbles in the coolant after it warms up. I am going to try to get them to heat the head before pressure testing??? I am about ready to give up on this 1.6 motor. The heads so far have been terrible and soooooo hard to find. The entire project is new or rebuilt. Radiators hoses belts and the like are new, block and heads are rebuilt. Or at least the shop says they are rebuilt. ALl surfaces are smooth and straight but I am thinking the crack is inside the valve chambers and not showing up on the pressure test.

Powjetta · « **Reply #4 on:** June 12, 2006, 11:10:25 am »

The head studs are made by raceware, I haven't seen a thread on non stretch bolts.

mtnsammy · « **Reply #5 on:** June 13, 2006, 09:02:25 pm »

Go figue, the shop is giving me a free pressure check. I am sure there will be expenses when they find the crack again, but at least I will know where the crack is. I took pictures this time and I marked my head so I'll know I got the same one back. Maybe it would be better to get a different on unless it also is cracked.

The raceware head bolts still confuse me. Why is it so much for these bolts? at 200 a set, that is $10 a bolt. Why not any grade 8 ( or metric equivalent) 12 mm bolt? The biggest question is what is the torque values changed to and what would the torque pattern for tightening the head bolts?

I will be gald when this is all over and I can just worry about how I get my tonka off the big rock again.

mtnsammy · « **Reply #6 on:** June 19, 2006, 12:21:21 am »

Go figure, the head was still cracked. That is now 5 heads cracked coming out of the machine shop and two from the shop I bought the motor from. Geez I almost want to go back to Chevy's, except it only gets 10 mpg and doesn't go as far. Next week I get the gaskets and bolts to put it together again. I'll post it when it is running. If it never runs again I'll work more OT and buy a 1.9TDI AAZ or something.

vwmike · « **Reply #7 on:** June 19, 2006, 02:31:10 am »

I don't think I've ever heard of such a string of bad luck. Aside from the normal cracks between the valves and in the prechamber cups I rarely ever hear of these heads cracking....at least not to the point of it causing a problem.

jtanguay · « **Reply #8 on:** June 19, 2006, 11:30:18 am »

Maybe the machineshop isn't heating the head up while they do their work? Assuming that the aluminum head needs to be heated to make sure it doesnt crack... You might wanna pitch that to the machineshop (a blow torch should suffice...)

thats the only way I can see aluminum cracking... if they are heating it up and it cracks... I have no clue.. but they must be doing something wrong.

mtnsammy · « **Reply #9 on:** June 19, 2006, 10:08:14 pm »

I have watched them heat the head and cool it down. They do not allow the heads to heat slowly like I would but they do allow plenty of time to cool. They have a turkey fryer stand they use to heat up the heads. The only thing I can think of is it gets hot too quick?? Besides a pressure test should always be good. The only other issue is all the workers are brought from Mexico without green cards and they live at the shop. Maybe they don't care when the testing is in progress. I know I miss alot after 8 hours of work and a 12 pack.

ANYWAYS I DO NOT RECOMMEND THOMAS AT QAULITY GERMAN IN CHINO OR HIS MACHINE SHOP. THEY ARE SLOPPY EVEN IF THEY ALWAYS GIVE A WARRANTY.

THE BEST WARRANTY IS ONE YOU NEVER NEED.

hoyt · « **Reply #10 on:** June 19, 2006, 11:20:30 pm »

If you don't mind shipping your head around, this is the shop
I used when I had my head rebuild:

http://www.aluminumheads.com/

They were recomended to me by someone who does a lot of
VW diesel motor work. I have atleast 5K on the head with
zero problems.

jtanguay · « **Reply #11 on:** June 20, 2006, 02:09:14 am »

Quote from: mtnsammy

I have watched them heat the head and cool it down. They do not allow the heads to heat slowly like I would but they do allow plenty of time to cool. They have a turkey fryer stand they use to heat up the heads. The only thing I can think of is it gets hot too quick?? Besides a pressure test should always be good. The only other issue is all the workers are brought from Mexico without green cards and they live at the shop. Maybe they don't care when the testing is in progress. I know I miss alot after 8 hours of work and a 12 pack.

ANYWAYS I DO NOT RECOMMEND THOMAS AT QAULITY GERMAN IN CHINO OR HIS MACHINE SHOP. THEY ARE SLOPPY EVEN IF THEY ALWAYS GIVE A WARRANTY.

THE BEST WARRANTY IS ONE YOU NEVER NEED.

If the the whole head is being heated at the same temp simultaneously, and there are no "cool spots" then there should be no problems with cracking if its heated quickly (but not TOO hot...). A slow cool down is the best thing for it too.

I hate these new car companies offering big warranties for their vehicles. If they're so great why bother with one? Might as well just drive a *** box and save