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82 Rabbit Diesel sat in open field for 3 yrs:needs work
by
cleoo
on 17 May, 2006 22:49
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I just bought a 1982 Rabbit Diesel 4 door that sat in an open field for 3 years. It has over 230,000 miles.
According to the previous owner, the wiring had shorted and caught on fire. (Is that a normal occurrence with these?).
Well, he jerry-rigged the wiring to get it to work. He had wires all over the engine bay hooked up to glow plugs, injection pumps, starter and 3 household light switches.
I don't know how well it worked, but I guess not very well. So, it sat in that open field under a tree.
I just bought a 1982 Rabbit GAS wiring harness. I'm hoping it will work with the diesel. Or I'm going to have to re-wire the old harness.
Here are the things that I've run across with this Rabbit:
1) Wiring harness shorted/burned.
What if anything did this screw up?
2) Power steering level is at the very bottom. (Top up?)
3) Brake Reservoir Cap is cracked but there is fluid in the reservoir.
(Replace cap, bleed and refill with brake fluid?)
4) Coolant overflow tank is completely dry.
(Refill with phosphate-free coolant?)
5) Corroded battery connections
(Replace with new battery cables?)
6) Looks like diesel is in the clear fuel line leading from the fuel filter.
(Replace fuel filter?)
7) A check of the dipstick shows that it is full but is black as can be.
(Drain oil. change oil filter and refill with 20w50 oil?)
I've seen some other posts regarding restarting an old "mothballed" diesel , but what else do I do about this particular diesel?
Is there something else I need to do to get it to start?
Please indicate what type of oil and oil filter and brake fluid and coolant and power steering fluid.
Any special problems that I may encounter?
I'd like to just get it started.
Thanks,
Chris.
:shock:
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#1
by
jtanguay
on 18 May, 2006 01:07
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yea change the oil right away. don't even attempt to start it without an oil change. the oil has probably broken down and turned acidic... who knows. the TBN must be very low on it. your best bet is to replace all fluids, just as a precaution, and especially if they were left open to the elements. one thing would be to add where the rabbit was stationary, as in what kind of climate. If in Canada, the humid climate would definitely have ruined the oil.
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#2
by
Maarten
on 18 May, 2006 01:35
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After 3 years in a field the cylinderwalls are corroded for sure... I suggest you pull the head to take a look inside. If you start it with the walls corroded you damage the pistons/rings.
The wiring harnass of a gasser is not very useful, the engine- and interiorpart has different wires.
I suggest you replace all fluids, braklefluid (moisturelevels in the opil will be very high = low boiling point) and probable the diesel too.
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#3
by
shwartzbewithyou
on 18 May, 2006 05:37
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After 3 years in a field the cylinderwalls are corroded for sure... I suggest you pull the head to take a look inside. If you start it with the walls corroded you damage the pistons/rings.
The wiring harnass of a gasser is not very useful, the engine- and interiorpart has different wires.
I suggest you replace all fluids, braklefluid (moisturelevels in the opil will be very high = low boiling point) and probable the diesel too.
Doesn't that seem a bit hasty? I'm just asking because I've never pulled a head for that. Wouldn't corrosion come from moisture, do you really think their would be enough moisture to corrode it bad enough to damage the rings upon startup?
I'm not trying to stir the pot, I've just bought a lot of cars that have been sitting for a while and have never gone that far unless a compression test told me I should.
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#4
by
RabbitJockey
on 18 May, 2006 06:04
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i don't really see what would make the cylinders so corroded that the head needs pulled.
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#5
by
cleoo
on 18 May, 2006 09:42
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After 3 years in a field the cylinderwalls are corroded for sure... I suggest you pull the head to take a look inside. If you start it with the walls corroded you damage the pistons/rings.
The wiring harnass of a gasser is not very useful, the engine- and interiorpart has different wires.
I suggest you replace all fluids, braklefluid (moisturelevels in the opil will be very high = low boiling point) and probable the diesel too.
:? I've read posts here where diesels have been 'mothballed' or sitting for 3-4 years and just pretty much started it up after changing the vital fluids.
I looked inside the camshaft area and it looks pretty shiny to me, so would that indicate anything?
The car was in San Diego, probably 30 miles from the coast. It was parked under a tree and then in a junk yard. The car is relatively rust free. There is some rust on the back hatch along the bottom of the window, not much. There is rust on the sunroof, but nowhere else.
As for the wiring harness, the only wires close that I've found was that gas one. I've checked certain junkyards, but still no luck.
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#6
by
cleoo
on 18 May, 2006 10:13
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yea change the oil right away. don't even attempt to start it without an oil change. the oil has probably broken down and turned acidic... who knows. the TBN must be very low on it. your best bet is to replace all fluids, just as a precaution, and especially if they were left open to the elements. one thing would be to add where the rabbit was stationary, as in what kind of climate. If in Canada, the humid climate would definitely have ruined the oil.
How many times do I change the oil before I start it? Just once or several times to clean out the dirty oil? Do I need to change the oil filter the same number of times too?
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#7
by
hoyt
on 18 May, 2006 10:42
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How many times do I change the oil before I start it? Just once or several times to clean out the dirty oil? Do I need to change the oil filter the same number of times too?
Just change the oil once. Then run the motor for a few
miles on the new oil (~100), then change the oil and filter
again. I would use something like Delo 400 as the flush
oil, it pretty cheap but still very good oil.
--John
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#8
by
shwartzbewithyou
on 18 May, 2006 11:07
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OK so if the car has been sitting that close to the coast for 3 years and still has basically no rust on the body that get's exposed to the elements, then I can't see any need to pull the head.
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#9
by
cleoo
on 18 May, 2006 11:43
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Yeah, I was hoping I wouldn't have to open the engine unless I really needed to.
I really appreciate all the good information.
I know the front shocks are shot. I'm guessing the rears are shot too.
Do you think the CV joints are shot also?
Do the wheel bearings need to be repacked?
Or should I just try to drive it off and see what creaks and groans?
Thanks again.
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#10
by
BlackTieTD
on 18 May, 2006 12:13
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i'd be more concerned with properly preparing the engine for its first start in 3 yrs... once its running and sounds healthy, then yes, i agree with driving off and replacing whatever is causing problems... just make sure you have solid brakes and look over the brake lines for any heavy corrosion that's ready to pop.
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#11
by
chrissev
on 19 May, 2006 08:08
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Yeah, I was hoping I wouldn't have to open the engine unless I really needed to.
I really appreciate all the good information.
I know the front shocks are shot. I'm guessing the rears are shot too.
Do you think the CV joints are shot also?
Do the wheel bearings need to be repacked?
Or should I just try to drive it off and see what creaks and groans?
Thanks again.
Re: taking the head off to see if the cylinders are rusted: I once bought a 79 diesel rabbit that had been sitting in a field for about 5 years. It had a little tree growing up through the engine compartment and out through the partially open hood. It had grass coming up where the driver's side floor used to be. The tires were so sunk into the mud that I couldn't see the bottoms of them. The back brakes were seized in place due to whoever parked it setting the handbrake when they left it there. The battery was completely dead and wouldn't accept a charge. I put a new battery in it, checked for diesel fuel and oil, glowed it a couple times, and turned the key. Would you believe the crazy thing started right up? That is exactly what happened. I had to replace the clutch when it started slipping badly on a hill I was climbing (didn't burn it out thankfully), and the fuel tank had a hole in it the size of a balled fist, but other than that, and the grime and slime on the interior from sitting for five years, it was a great little car and lasted me for a long time.
One thing I would suggest you do, as soon as you're able, would be to replace the timing belt. You have no idea how many miles it has on it and if it breaks, it will destroy your engine. I didn't replace the oil before I started my 79 diesel but that is definately a good idea as oil does break down if it sits for too long. RE: coolant, use whatever you like, brake fluid is DOT 4. Check the brake lines carefully for rust holes and leaks before you drive it at any speed, they tend to rust away on those cars. Check that the cooling fan is operational, the wiring deteriorates and the sensor gets covered in sludge, overheat her and you will need a new headgasket and maybe a new cylinder head, gasser wiring harness is pretty useless, you need one from a diesel, ummmm, what else is there to tell you, replace the fuel filter, it is the big oil filter type thing on the left side of the engine bay, other than those things you should be good to go. good luck with it.
Chris
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#12
by
Darkness_is_spreading
on 19 May, 2006 18:13
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I was at a friends house, and with the motor hanging in the air, we primed the glow plugs, set power to the fuel solenoid, and ran power to the starter, after a little hessitation if fire right up an out came a nice think patch of black smoke. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
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#13
by
cleoo
on 18 Jun, 2006 09:49
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Okay, I've been trying to get the wiring for this car fixed. Apparently, water leaked underneath to the dash and fried some of the wiring.
I pulled out the wiring harness that connects to the battery, the engine and all the sensors.
If you can see, just click on the picture to make it bigger, I rewired the black plug left of the steering column. Pin number 5 was severely burnt.
Did I rewire it wrong?
Now when I connect the battery. The battery indicator and the seatbelt indicator light turns on and the radio turns on. Without the key inserted....
So, I don't know if the burnt glow plug relay is the cause of this "short"?
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#14
by
Master ACiD
on 18 Jun, 2006 11:15
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soiunds like my car. it sat for a few years in some guys garage. it had bad engine. i got an engine out of a truck that sat for years in someone elses backyard. i got the truck running but it snapped a timing belt within 10 minutes.
dont worry about the brakes, power steering, etc for now. those items you can do later. just get the core motor running first. work on 1 thing at a time.
sence the harness is all messed up go to the auto parts store and buy new battery cables and terminals as well as a new battery. install these items. next attach a wire from the injection pump solenoid to the positive on the battery. then use jumper cables to energise the glow plugs for 10-15 seconds and have a friend jumper the starter on with a screwdriver. this should get the motor up and running reguardless of the rest of the cars wire harness condition.
dont run it long because the fan wont turn on in this state. also the timing belt may be weak. just run it a minute or 2 to clear things out a little or untill youre satisfied with the engines condition.
once you know the "core" motor is running and operating good then move onto other things like changing the oil, the wire harness, brakes, power steering, etc.
just get the core motor running first. thats the most important thing.
