OK....at the behest of others interested....here is the part number of the Ford inductive pickup I used for my tacho conversion........................... XR3Z-7H103AB ....retails for $23.90 stateside....as far as I know this pickup can be found on all 99' and newer T5's, T45's, and 3650 manual transmissions used in Ford Mustangs....have fun!!
Quote from: "jimbote"OK....at the behest of others interested....here is the part number of the Ford inductive pickup I used for my tacho conversion........................... XR3Z-7H103AB ....retails for $23.90 stateside....as far as I know this pickup can be found on all 99' and newer T5's, T45's, and 3650 manual transmissions used in Ford Mustangs....have fun!!Thanks!So this puppy can drive a standard VW gas tach with no calibration?I'd rather measure the real RPM then read "a rpm" that comes from the alternator.
Quote from: "saurkraut"Quote from: "jimbote"OK....at the behest of others interested....here is the part number of the Ford inductive pickup I used for my tacho conversion........................... XR3Z-7H103AB ....retails for $23.90 stateside....as far as I know this pickup can be found on all 99' and newer T5's, T45's, and 3650 manual transmissions used in Ford Mustangs....have fun!!Thanks!So this puppy can drive a standard VW gas tach with no calibration?I'd rather measure the real RPM then read "a rpm" that comes from the alternator.The alt. could slip and all sorts of stuff. Jimbotes method is the superior for sure. Mine is just dirt cheap. :wink:
Well that's the thing vince.Latches will do, but only to an extent right. A micro controller would be "perfect" but latches would be a good guess. haha ... so ... when i get it going and it says im idling at 200 rpm i'll know it won't work but if its like 50rpm out i won't care.
Yup... you got it... a latch (at least the way Eddie's usin' 'em) divides by two. Put two of them in a row and you get divide by 4, etc etc etc.So perfect for what you're thinking.Not so hot when you need to divide by something other than an exact multiple of two... which is why boxes like the Dakota Digital use a microprocessor to do the math.Eddie: I'll re-do the calculations sometime soon (gotta head out the door)... the "7.456" was just a random number to make a point that it's not an exact multiple of two... but as discussed recalibrating the tach will likely compensate just fine.
using smokey eddies idea of a latch may work with the inductive crank position sensor already installed in the block of 1Z/AHU/ALH blocks....they read a wheel with four slots so they give four pulses per rev. if you used a "latch" (not sure how they wire in) which divides by two you would get the two pulses needed to drive the tach?....maybe eddie will chime in....
Okydokes,The Ford probe (with no voltage applied) can drive the VW 4 cylinder gas engine tach and produce an accurate RPM if it sees two chunks of steel every rotation of the crank shaft.True or nodoes the Ford probe have only two wires (signal and ground)?
Quote from: "jimbote"Okydokes,The Ford probe (with no voltage applied) can drive the VW 4 cylinder gas engine tach and produce an accurate RPM if it sees two chunks of steel every rotation of the crank shaft.True or nodoes the Ford probe have only two wires (signal and ground)?True.....the ford probe and "most" magnetic inductive sensors (found in automotive applications) have only two wires that are interchangeable signal or ground as in it does not matter which wire goes to ground and which wire goes to signal....the two leads or pins in "most" sensors are only the termination of a coil of copper windings around a magnet....now all "inductive" sensors do not have a "magnet" some are merely a coil of windings around a laminated core and the moving poles are magnets ie the magneto on a lawn mower.....but for this application it would probably be easiest to source and use a "magnetic inductive" pickup ....being as how it can be difficult to attach magnets to the crank pulley....