Engine Specific Info and Questions > IDI Engine
What the hell just happened?
RunninWild:
Intake wasnt open for long and i didnt stick a rag in it. I swapped turbos from he211 to a he221 and my piping and couplers didn't fit the new turbo. Starting it was to check the wiring and to check for coolant leaks. I know starting it was dumb but sucking something in the intake wouldn't explain the injector coming loose. I'm 100% sure I torqued it properly when i installed them. I've also swapped the drain lines 3 times since they were installed and definitely would have noticed the injector being as loose as it was.
Also the smoke is more white/gray and black when revving it.
But thanks for the tip. I'll definitely check the delivery valves and the intake before I pull the head. Hopefully its nothing major but I dont have my hopes up.
RunninWild:
I just swapped injector 1 and 4 around to completely rule out the injectors. The dead spot stayed with cylinder 1. I then took the delivery valve apart and it looked fine but cleaned it out and put it back on. I also pushed the cold start back in (cable is disconnected but the lever was pulled forward). I then cranked it over and was able to notice that its definitely got a rotation of no compression. I then disconnected the 12v to the ip and cranked it over and I can hear compression leaking out every 4th rotation. I gotta get someone to crank it while i try and find where its leaking but I'm betting its something to do with the socket injector 1 sits in. I cant see any cracks around the outside of the threaded part where they normally crack and the threads inside look fine.
ORCoaster:
So you think you cracked the boss on the head for the injector? I had that happen for no good reason one time. I was thinking about pulling the injectors and having them cleaned and calibrated as I wasn't impressed with the Hwy MPG I was getting. I had the hood up and was eyeballing the work I had to do and trying to figure out if I could get the injectors out on a Sunday evening, run them over to the Portland shop on Monday morning and retrieve them Thurs night.
As I was wiping down the head of excess oil from the valve gasket leak I noticed a fine hairline crack in the #1 lip that wraps around the face of the injector. Holy Crap I thought. I will break that sure as snot if I try to remove the injectors. I decided to locate and rebuild a head instead and put new injectors in it. I was able to drive the Rabbit for a few weeks before pulling it apart. When I did get the injector out the hair line vanished. So maybe you need to spray some soapy water next to the injector and the hole it sits in. If there is air leaking out bubbles will form and maybe even foam.
Best of luck. Several here have had success getting or welding the aluminum to save the head. May not be as costly as buying a second head.
But then aren't two heads better than one? LOL
RunninWild:
I didn't look too closely at the seat but it looks fine. I did however pull the intake and exhaust manifolds and the intake port is soaked and the valve has a bunch of buildup on it. Its looking like something got sucked up and ***ered it. Going boat camping this weekend. I'll pull the head Monday and reassess.
Question: the ahu aaz are basically the same block other then the crank position sensor. Could I drop ahu pistons and an ahu head and throw a rover pump on it for mtdi?
libbydiesel:
Yes, you can do as you say (pistons/head/injectors/pump) and make it an mTDI. The ALH rods are stronger but the AAZ rods will work. The TDI injection pump bracket is different from the AAZ bracket in that it accommodates an extra timing belt roller between the pump and cam sprockets. Some have run without it. I tend to think it is important.
I am actually currently in the process of rebuilding an AAZ into an mTDI. I got the Nural ASV pistons from metalmanparts: https://www.metalmanparts.com/product.sc?productId=344&categoryId=19. I will be using the ALH rods and an AHU head.
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