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#30
by
libbydiesel
on 04 Nov, 2018 23:15
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Any progress or update with this?
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#31
by
Zeitgeist
on 05 Nov, 2018 15:41
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I haven't really had much time to apply to this project, but this morning I tried a few of the last straws in my meager arsenal. I swapped in a pressure regulator from a 4BT pump and the overflow banjo bolt regulator from another pump. Additionally, I installed a small low pressure pump in the feed line just after the tank. This is really just to help with priming the system during fuel filter swaps and the like. It's triggered by a toggle switch in the engine compartment, and is only intended to run very briefly. It allows flow through the pump when it's not turned on.
Nevertheless, there's no love for me after all that. It cranks and cranks, but doesn't even sputter in the least. It's got to be an issue inside the pump.
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#32
by
libbydiesel
on 05 Nov, 2018 20:45
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Ugh, I'm very sorry to hear that.
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#33
by
Zeitgeist
on 05 Nov, 2018 22:59
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#34
by
libbydiesel
on 06 Nov, 2018 18:17
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Yes, the vane pump is at the very end of the case. It is not terribly complicated, though. Mark any adjustments and keep all the wear items in their same locations (e.g. camplate rollers). Taking pics as you progress through the disassembly would be wise. Post up any questions. It's not as hard as it might seem but still does take care and a clean work space.
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#35
by
Zeitgeist
on 06 Nov, 2018 19:47
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Thanks again for all your help. Since I've never serviced an ALH (I assembled this, but servicing is different), is it possible to find TDC, and then slacken the T-belt tensioner and then remove the pump without having to disassemble the lower cover and crank dampener?
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#36
by
libbydiesel
on 07 Nov, 2018 19:32
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Yes, it is possible. With the pump removed, the belt will have a tendency to jump this way or that around the crank sprocket. Be extra sure that the cam and crank both are at TDC and pump pinned on reassembly.
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#37
by
Zeitgeist
on 07 Nov, 2018 21:52
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Thanks, I'll tear into it tomorrow and report back with what I have found.
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#38
by
Zeitgeist
on 09 Nov, 2018 13:04
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I pulled the pump yesterday. Is there a DIY solution to the triangular bolts on the side of the pump?
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#39
by
Zeitgeist
on 09 Nov, 2018 17:51
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To answer my own question, I modified a Craftsman 1/2" six point socket with my Dremel so that the inside profile matched the triangular head of those bolts. I'm currently trying to figure out how to remove the dark grey cylinder in the bottom of the pump body, so I can get at the supply pump. So far I haven't found any obvious problems
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#40
by
Zeitgeist
on 09 Nov, 2018 19:49
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I've got it completely taken apart, and the only issue I've found is some scoring on the pump housing, but this is not in the supply pump section. Thoughts?
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#41
by
libbydiesel
on 09 Nov, 2018 20:22
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That looks normal to me. The vanes of the vane pump all move freely? The key/keyway of the vane pump are in good condition? Have you pulled out the high pressure piston? Is that all fine? Have you tried pulling a vacuum on the fuel supply line and confirmed that fuel flows without issue from the tank?
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#42
by
Zeitgeist
on 09 Nov, 2018 22:09
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Everything I've observed with the exception of that wear on the housing appears to be operating well with no abnormal wear or stickiness. I'm not sure what the high pressure piston is, but I have everything pulled off the pump, though I didn't remove anything from the upper cover. I blew compressed air through my fuel filler neck and fuel flowed fine through the hoses and filter.
I know this is getting a bit ahead of myself, since I'm still chasing a running condition problem, but how difficult would it be to swap over my 4BT pump head when I reassemble this thing? I'm kinda surprised at how different the plunger housing is between the Cummins and LR.
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#43
by
Zeitgeist
on 10 Nov, 2018 17:57
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Here are the plunger housings from the 4BT, LR and a Prothe unit I bought probably a decade ago, when my ignorance was even more chock full of ignorance.
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#44
by
libbydiesel
on 10 Nov, 2018 23:18
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By 'high pressure piston' I was referring to the plunger.
Have you confirmed that there is not any issue with the fuel supply to the pump (tank, filter, etc...)?
I probably wouldn't recommend swapping the fuel distributor/ plunger assembly at this time. It would add another unknown to the equation.
I would reassemble, pull fuel through the pump until full, and try running with supply and return submerged in a container of clean diesel.