Which IP is better? 2.8TDI or 2.8iDTD / choosed 200tdi - page 2 - mTDI Mechanical TDI Conversions - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #15 by libbydiesel on 17 Jun, 2018 02:13
• Nozzles definitely affect timing.  If you don't have access to a pulse adapter, then next best is to make very fine adjustments until it is not too clattery, has easy cold starts, and good power.
• #16 by Kamikaze on 27 Aug, 2018 10:46
• And can I ask you for advice, which way I should do fine tuning? If i am now at 1.54mm should i increase this number or decrease?
  
  I think opening pressure is changing timing and i have stock opening pressure (195Bar), isnt it?
• #17 by libbydiesel on 27 Aug, 2018 19:43
• I would have to listen to the engine running to offer a decent opinion on whether it sounds overly advanced/retarded.  Maybe post up a sound clip or video? 
  
  1.54 is a very high plunger lift setting.  A good baseline on a 300TDI pump with stock injectors is 1.40mm plunger lift.  At 1.54, it is more likely overly advanced than overly retarded but that's just a guess. 
• #18 by Kamikaze on 20 Sep, 2018 15:49
• Sorry about long silence about me, here i am with video of engine sound. Hope its good enough example to hear it. I am little bit sad i cut video too early, after reviving like on video are idle RPM higher for a few seconds. Engine was warm.
  
  https://youtu.be/xQaMWwmwsVo
  
  Its daily car so i am sorry for enthusiast.
• #19 by libbydiesel on 20 Sep, 2018 19:16
• As far as timing it sounds fairly reasonable.  I don't hear a lot of diesel clatter.
  
  It could just be the recording vs. being there in real life, but I feel like I hear too much tick and hiss.  Almost like a combination of a soft lifter and an intake or vac pump leak or something rubbing or a bad bearing in the alt/water pump.   
• #20 by Kamikaze on 21 Sep, 2018 03:22
• Wow, you are great! I am happy timing is OK. I set pump on bench so maybe when belt was putting up it decrease a little bit from 1,54mm.
  
  And you hear good with ticking like hydraulic lifter but they are almost brand new (maybe 15K Km). I fighted with this sound a lot but dont find what it is doing. Oil pressure is at iddle 1.5bar so good enough. I Give up about this, maybe engine is worn out because engine is from Golf Mk3 old taxi with 600K km. I bought it very cheap and it started excelent cold/warm. I told myself "it sound like hydraulic lifter so easy to change" but changing them didn't help.
  
  And also alternator bearing is bad, hopefully i will fix it as soon as possible because while glowplugs are ON alternator is squeaking a little bit (like a bird) so for now i have taken out glow plug Relay-60.
  
  
• #21 by Kamikaze on 17 Oct, 2018 05:51
• Libbydiesel i am here again. Sorry for bothering again. O:)
  For weekend i am planing some fine tuning and one thing is bothering me and i can't find information so i am looking for informations by this way.
  
  I don't know how call it right in english but let's call it "starting injection quantity". When i am starting up engine it inject too many diesel so it smokes a lot and RPM jump a little bit (~1400rpm for 0.5 second). Smoke fades away in 1-3 seconds. I think it is causing "Starting Injection Quantity" of 2,5Liter engine on 1.9Liter. Can you tell me please how decrease it?
  
  I am thinking it is this little spring in circle, i am right?
  
  
• #22 by ORCoaster on 17 Oct, 2018 20:59
• Kanikaze,  Don't mess with that little spring it is not what you want to adjust.   In your picture look at the lever that is sticking up past the top of the level of the body of the IP.  Now go get the top part that goes on and flip it over.  See the screw like thing that would touch the lever if it was all put together?  That is the Fuel Screw that controls the amount of fuel going into the engine at startup and when under way, driving.
  
  You need to turn that screw out a couple of turns, two half turns.  Maybe more once the car gets running.  Turning it makes a lot of difference in how the car runs, how much power it has, how much fuel is wasted as black smoke. 
  
  When you change the amount of fuel going in at idle you  also have to change the idle setting that is the screw that pushes the lever out a bit farther.  It is a balancing act.  A little more idle screw and a little less fuel screw. 
  
  If the car is not responsive when you are driving it, then the fuel screw goes in like 1/4 turn and the idle gets backed off a bit to lower the RPMs
• #23 by Kamikaze on 19 Oct, 2018 10:16
• Thanks for exhausting answer. Don't worry picrute above is from one IDI/MTDi frankenstain what i did before 200tdi pump. I am not touched that spring. On 200Tdi pump i did just Governor mod.
  But if i lower enrichment screw i lost a lot of power/torque, mainly on bottom spectrum of RPMs and LDA "kicks in" is a lot more noticeable and i don't like that - it feels like turbo spool. I hoped for lowering starting quantity without lose power.
  
  I think i will survive then a little smoke on start. So it looks that i have just one thing to do for weekend. I want decrease maximum pressure from 1.3b to 1.2b for less strain in  my K14 turbo. Hope that turbo will survive with car until rust eat whole car.
  
  
  Sorry for my terrible english. 
• #24 by ORCoaster on 19 Oct, 2018 23:08
• Not bad English if I can understand the intent or thoughts.  Rust can be dealt with too.  Chemicals that we use when painting bind to the rust and stop the process.  If you look around you will find them.  Not expensive either.  I think I bought a quart bottle for about 13 dollars at the hardware store last year.  Have given half of that away to others doing body work or painting their cars or vans.  They didn't know such a thing existed. 
  
  And dad taught me all about nearly 50 years ago.  Thanks dad.
  
• #25 by Kamikaze on 31 Jan, 2019 12:41
• In my case there is no help when you don't have metal to apply at. My golf was many years abused as working car on farm without any maintaince but when i sold my old car and needed something for driving and i fall in love with this golf. But now the floor under driver seat is very rusty, i mean there is hole you can see ground when you look under carped. And repair will cost more than golf with nice floor.
  
  But now i am bored while is winter and i am thinking about some work for increase HP.   
  I found in garage one turbo named KKK K14 (6707) from Audi A6 2.5TDi 1996
  Now in car i have KKK K14 (7009) from Passat B3 1.9TD AAZ
  
  Both are K14 but there is a massive difference between them. (6707) is a lot larger and i am thinking if it is possible made hybrid turbo Exhaust part from 7009 and pressure part from 6707.  Now i have boost at 1.25Bar but turbo scream in pain. 0.9Bar is regular pressure. But spool is pretty late.
  What do you think? Will it perform better, or is it even possible made this combination?
• #26 by Dino on 14 Jun, 2019 15:06
• Hello.
  Once upon a time I was going to buy a green metalic Golf like yours but it wsa too expensive.
  I like that colour.
  I have some questions  but I can't translate or explain it very well.
  The pumps you've found before the Land Rover one fit on the sprocket with the VW pulley?
  How many different pulleys have you got? Where are they from?
  Was the Golf a 70hp 1.6TD?
  What about the gerabox? Is it still the 1.6 one?
  What about the fuel consumption?
  Do I need to swap the gerabox or I can take its own gerabox?
  What about flywheel,clutch and electric starter?
  Do you use a dial gauge for pump setting? Other tools or adaptors?
  To many questions,sorry.
  Thank you very much.