Author Topic: weekend motor swap Q? (Read 2064 times)

sethyboy85 · « **on:** April 15, 2006, 09:49:18 pm »

I just got a eco diesel motor today in good condition, now I have to get a new clutch and swap out the pissy KKK turbo for a larger Garrett I have sitting around but what is the best way to swap a motor on a VW? raise it up and drop the motor out the bottom or pull the motor out the top?

any tips on pulling the motor out is greatly appreciated or other installation issues you came across.

oh yeah there is this little thing on the bottom of the motor it's not the water pump it's (below the water pump) something else with to tube connections on it (can grab pic if needed) I have no idea what the heck it is

SMOKEYDUB · « **Reply #1 on:** April 16, 2006, 12:49:54 am »

undo all coolant and wiring. unbolt all the engine / tranny mounts and pull engine and tranny as a unit i takes like an hour and its easy to change the clutch when everything is out.

sethyboy85 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 16, 2006, 12:51:32 am »

I got another tranny to go with the ECO motor so it will be even easier to drop in a completely assebled drivetrain immediately.

dubCanuck1 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 16, 2006, 01:31:04 am »

If you've got no power steering, out the top works OK and you don't have to pull the front crossmember.

If you've got power steering, lift the car and pull it out from the bottom. If you're pulling the tranny and the driveaxles, you'll have to turn the wheels back and forth when you pull them out and put them back in.

I'm doing the exact same thing right now. I've pulled the TD from the car and am putting in the NA.

For mine, I had to swap the power steering pulley on the crank, the coolant flange that goes underneath the glow plug bar (the newer car has more sensors on that piece).

You may also have to use the NA downpipe. I'm seeing that the TD downpipe and the NA toilet bowl don't line up. I'm going to jack it up and find out.

Make sure you put a plug in the vacuum hose that runs to the injector on a TD, but doesn't exist on the NA.

Do yourself a really big favor. Some of the wiring is NOT used on your car. Get some of those string tags and write down which plugs are and aren't used. I've got a few plugs that I'm sitting there scratching my head on.

Your tube thing is the power steering assist. It's got a pulley that runs from the crank. When draining the car, you'll have to pull it off so that you can pull off the spout for the thermostat. That's the lowest point on your car, so all the coolant will flush from there. Also, grab the crank pulley from the original engine if the ECO doesn't have it.

Make sure you mark your BOV plug and then cover it and stow it in a place that it won't get dirty/caught in the belts.

therabbittree · « **Reply #4 on:** April 16, 2006, 09:09:19 am »

with the engine out re do the TDC mark on your flywheel.. if possible it is very nice to have real tdc mark..the fly wheel markings are normally a few degrees or more off. are you gonna to th etiming belt while you have the engine out?.. might be wise move. then its fresh ..
later
Deo

hillfolk'r · « **Reply #5 on:** April 16, 2006, 12:09:18 pm »

yea,,havent heard any horror stories,on someone swapping a 210clutchsetup,thenhaving to dotiming belt,,timing mark on fw. is off like aninch,,wanna bend valves??set that mark up correctly,, i showed rabbittree,he was surprised,,,i found that one out the hard way myself,thats y im always talkin about it,,,,,rabbittree,,on my dads red 91,,didnt you guys take it out the top???its got ac and ps,,,,,,,im assuming you are workin on an a2,,,yea ditch that lil eco turbo,,,,maybe ill do another post,about setting up a 210 fw. for new mark,,,idi is a pain to fish anything thru prechanber for a piston stop,,i was thinkin that you can remove cam,,and make a little device to hold a number 1 valve open,and use that as a stop,,somethin that would bolt to camcaps and push valve open,,,,,,maybe a cut up camshaft would be a "cool tool"