so you dont have to pull motor just for im shaft replacement. what i did, mind you this was on a MK2, where the front motor mount is removable, ive long seen the last of mk1's a good while ago, so no real idea on mk1 front motor mount. on a mk2, 1 i removed oil pan, for a jack point. 2 loosen all 3 motor mounts, use oil pan lip, a couple of blocks of wood and a jack, jack up motor, get up some and remove front motor mount bolts/nut(s). jack up some more, make sure you dont put front motor mount flange in to radiator, it will come close. get front motor mount out. now #1 motor will come down so im shaft clears fender. but first you need to check that nothing will hang-up motor on the way down, such as electrical wires, fuel hoses, rad hoses, etc, could make a job really harder. so motor will come down quite a ways for shaft to clear fender. front mount flange will come close to bottoming out. im shaft should clear fender, have a new shaft prepped, and otherwise it can slide back in, except youll want to take the best visual of bearings you can. outer bearing is perhaps serviceable, you d need the tools to pull & press a new one in. inner bearing can be real difficult, probably need a shop for that one, if also the outer one. in reverse jack up motor so you can put mount back in and put that part back together, re-tighten mounts and such. as for your engine hoist is can take place of a jack if you use it right and can perhaps with or with out a jack get motor up & down, at the least it will be like a jack stand, or a support so motor cannt go free and drop, it will have the support like a stand.
That's a lot of 'kissing'. The exhaust valves hammered quite a bit. It's not very common that you see the intake valve impressions also. I'm impressed... :-P Someone was really, really sloppy with the timing belt. Pistons are still usable unless you find any cracks. Bores are probably worn out so it's probably not relevant. Cracks between the valves look alright. The valves should all be replaced. Buff the pre-combustion chamber inserts to a shine. You can't tell if they are cracked until you do. If they are cracked, they should be replaced, IMO.
Initial reaction to the pictures.Copper spray on head means past head work was done. Amount of soot on valves now looks like none hitting at this time.No carbon ridge so head rebuilt a little while ago or lack of driving afterwards.Valves in Cyls 2 and 3 look shifted so maybe bent when you pull them out. Will be interested to see if they are.So the valves made it known to the pistons that they wanted to get close. But not all of them are like that so I wouldn't be thinking the problem was timing belt as much as a poor job of shims after the rebuild. I say that only because that is what happened to mine when I had a shop do the work. They were ahem, how do we say that, Not real familiar with the tolerances of the VW engine? He was sloppy and likely distracted and my guess was he couldn't do math. Not a good thing for a machinist. Some of the gaps were way off on the tight side and others too much gap. Perhaps he didn't know the Exhaust from the input port? I have no clear idea all I know is that when I put the head on I could rotate the crank without hitting the valves. When I started it up they did make noise. So I shut it down pronto and pulled the head. I found two valves that had made similar marks as those in the photo. So it didn't take but 30 seconds for that to happen. Scary eh?Cracks look ok between cylinders but a good cleaning will really revel what is going on there. Since this is not a Daily Driver (DD) then you have time to put some time into cleaning and measuring the head for warping. Get a good straight machinist edge and lay it over the block and slide those feeler gauges under the edge. .004 MM is tolerance if I remember right.Good luck on the rebuild. Or is it just the intermediate shaft that needed fixing?
To me, it looks like a tired engine which received an "Einstein paint-mark" timing job last time aroooond.Nothing runs like a properly rebuilt engine. Take 'err down to the crank!edit: WAIT....is this a 12 mm bolt engine?If not....do you have a big dumpster nearby?
I use the filter flange for a turbo oil supply line.An oil pressure sender there would crowd the place up. Head looks clean. Another way you can check for straightness is to unbolt the cam, remove the followers and see how much the cam rocks. Since you already know how warped your head is, this would be a good chance to try that and calibrate yourself to what a warped head cam rocks like. Your head doesn't look like it's been surfaced before.