Pump timing too advanced?

[Tmarkle]

So a while back I replaced the main shaft seal for my 1.6D in my injection pump. The only special tools were the ones I built so no dial indicator. I think my pump timing is too advanced. Yes I used the mark and pray method but it got me pretty close, close enough to run decently. It has plenty of power for what it is, but does start hard on first start up and if it sits and idles for a while it will make an ever so slight haze out the exhaust (difficult to see during the day, easier to see at night with lights on). On cold start it boils grey smoke, then black, then slightly white once it starts for a minute or so. Any ideas?

[vanbcguy]

Your timing is probably retarded. Try bumping the pump towards the head very slightly (like the width of a line drawn with a pencil) and see if it is any happier.

How does the engine sound?

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[fatmobile]

 Yeah, you didn't mention how it sounds so it can't be too clacky.
 Maybe advance it.

 The white smoke can mean a fuel line restriction. Do you have clear fuel lines?

[Tmarkle]

Engine sounds good. Watched some videos on youtube and sounds like all of those, that's my only reference since there's very few of these cars near me. I do have clear lines. The engine was vibrating pretty good and idling low after I did the job so I turned up the idle to were the vibration seemed minimal, don't know if that helps. Fuel mileage is also only about 35mpg city and highway combined. Has a fresh fuel filter also.

[vanbcguy]

White smoke, hard starting and low power are all pretty common symptoms of retarded timing.

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[ORCoaster]

You should loosen the four nuts on the back of the pump on the lines to the injector.  Then all but the very most forward bolt on the IP.  Mark a line across the pump and the bracket with a sharp scribe or knife.  Then tighten the nuts back up.  Slowly loosen the last bolt and ease the IP towards the engine so the line just starts to spit across the two pieces.  Tighten the bolts back down on all four points on the IP. 

Now try to start it cold.  Does it fire off any better?  If not loosen the nuts again, all of the bolts with the last one going very slowly and ease the pump towards the engine and double the split in the line.  Button it up and try starting.  It only takes a very small change on the IP placement to change the timing a bunch.  So this method might work for you as you don't seem to have a dial indicator which I would suggest purchasing as timing in everything for enjoying the VW diesel running at its best.  Or worst as some would say.

[Tmarkle]

You should loosen the four nuts on the back of the pump on the lines to the injector.  Then all but the very most forward bolt on the IP.  Mark a line across the pump and the bracket with a sharp scribe or knife.  Then tighten the nuts back up.  Slowly loosen the last bolt and ease the IP towards the engine so the line just starts to spit across the two pieces.  Tighten the bolts back down on all four points on the IP. 

Now try to start it cold.  Does it fire off any better?  If not loosen the nuts again, all of the bolts with the last one going very slowly and ease the pump towards the engine and double the split in the line.  Button it up and try starting.  It only takes a very small change on the IP placement to change the timing a bunch.  So this method might work for you as you don't seem to have a dial indicator which I would suggest purchasing as timing in everything for enjoying the VW diesel running at its best.  Or worst as some would say.

Thanks! I'll give it a try. Hopefully I can get this resolved soon as I am planning to turbo it soon 

[fatmobile]

 Only thing I can add to that timing adjustment is;
 when you start it cold pull the cold start lever and push it back in a few times to see how it runs best.
 If it smooths out when the cold start knob is pulled you might want to advance the timing a little more.

[ORCoaster]

That is a great first simple check Fatmobile.  Why didn't I think of that first?  Maybe because so many times I read that pulling the cold start lever does nothing on this forum.  Well that is likely due to the limited travel the cable can make and the mechanical connection at the IP.  The shaft on the outside is pulled by the cable, helped out by a lever that turns a part inside.  But if you ever take apart an IP you will see that the way that works is sort of a cam like hub that presses on another plunger that moves the advance ring just a tiny bit. 

One time I noticed my cold start was doing nada and figured out the lever was not set up against the cam at all and it took most of the travel on the cable pull to get it there.  So I had to get back there and loosen the keeper, take up that slack and all was well after that. 

So if you have a properly adjusted Cold Start will help you figure out if a few more degrees of advance will help or hurt you.

[Tmarkle]

Only thing I can add to that timing adjustment is;
 when you start it cold pull the cold start lever and push it back in a few times to see how it runs best.
 If it smooths out when the cold start knob is pulled you might want to advance the timing a little more.

It runs A  LOT smoother cold with the cable pulled! When up to operating temp the sound difference is small but notable.

[fatmobile]

 You might try advancing it a little but it sounds close,.. make a mark because you might have to move it back.

[Tmarkle]

You might try advancing it a little but it sounds close,.. make a mark because you might have to move it back.

The haze I had talked about increases when the engine is warm and I pull the cable. Like I said it can hardly be seen during the day and is barely visible at night with lights shining on it, should I even worry about this? The car seems to have the power it should, being these cars are slow anyways compared to what I'm used to, but I can get up to 70mph no problem and even run 80mph if its on flat ground, but on really steep hills sometimes I'm down to third gear. P.S. the car does have a hood stack so that's how I noticed the ever so slight haze. There is no coolant smell so I know its not a head gasket Runs smooth and when the weather is nice starts just fine, like yesterday it was 40 degree Fahrenheit and it popped off with absolutely no effort, as I would think it should.

[ORCoaster]

I would not worry about haze as that is a function of a diesel most of the time.  It would be that white smoke and hard starting that would be corrected with a slight pump bump I think.  Then you might be able to turn down the idle a bit to where the vibration is minimal and not overly high RPM at an idle. 

Try it you might like it.