81 Bosch IP rebuild/re-seal the same thing? Leaking at pulley, ugh

[Heron]

From what I've gathered a reman/rebuild is simply checking everything out/replacing the "issue" and resealing it. They don't replace everything. So in my case I know my pump is good, they will take it apart test it, then reseal it.
The pump on this truck I've been trying to get going is leaking at the pulley. I've gotten a myriad of prices today and not sure what to do. I've got the pump off the motor but not sure where to start.

I've read to stay away from hans/prothe


I spoke to someone at Midwest and they sounded good, said they go thru everything, test it all and then reseal it, 1yr warr. $575

DCP will do it for $375

I looked at place in Oregon..around 550..

Question is if the truck ran great, do most of you just reseal it yourself and call it a day?

If so please give me a link to find a bosch kit..the only one I can find is from hans. No one locally carries them.

If not can someone direct me to who I should send it to that will really go thru it and do it right for a fair price. TY

[TylerDurden]

Question is if the truck ran great, do most of you just reseal it yourself and call it a day?

Yep.

You can call diesel injections shops in your area and ask for a Bosch DGK-126 seal kit (~$25) and main input shaft seal (~$18) :  p/n 1 460 283 312.

Seems like a lot of the online kits don't have all the needed seals. 

[Heron]

Question is if the truck ran great, do most of you just reseal it yourself and call it a day?

Yep.

You can call diesel injections shops in your area and ask for a Bosch DGK-126 seal kit (~$25) and main input shaft seal (~$18) :  p/n 1 460 283 312.

Seems like a lot of the online kits don't have all the needed seals. 

Thx much for those part numbers.

I've read so much about whether to do it yourself and others say, no way, they screwed it up somehow, you need special tools, if you forget something the pump is toast  etc...

I believe it's just the head seal by the pulley that is leaking, would you just order that one seal and replace that?

I do feel this IP has never been touched with 135k on the odometer. IYHO would it be worthwhile to send it out to DCP in Memphis(not far from me) and have them test everything and reseal it? $375...
I know I don't have the equipment to test it out but again not sure how much these "rebuilders" actually do..

If I decide to take it on and go thru it myself, what is the best guide to doing it.. Gnalodius writeup or is there another
guide people have found that is proven.

[vanbcguy]

Most places will charge a basic price for a reseal while a "rebuild" includes things like the accelerator and input shaft bushings plus a complete recalibration of the pump.

You definitely can reseal it yourself - I'd highly recommend doing it out of the car on a bench. You also definitely can destroy the pump while resealing it, though.

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[Heron]

Most places will charge a basic price for a reseal while a "rebuild" includes things like the accelerator and input shaft bushings plus a complete recalibration of the pump.

You definitely can reseal it yourself - I'd highly recommend doing it out of the car on a bench. You also definitely can destroy the pump while resealing it, though.

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Okay, makes sense..what I was told is they would check and replace what is needed. Since the pump works great I don't feel they would do anything other than a reseal.

Would it be safer to just get the reseal kit and do just the outside seals, like the cold start and the head and whatever else I can do without opening it up totally since she runs great..?
I called around my area today for a kit for it and no one had it.
I found one on ebay that says it fits, non bosch and another that is made by Flag from Germany...any of those work or would you stick with the Bosch only?

[vanbcguy]

To be honest if it is leaking at the pulley there's a pretty good chance the input shaft bushing is toast too - that requires a complete pump tear down. Check for play at the pulley with the belt loose.

The input shaft seal can be replaced pretty easily though if the bushing is ok, nothing needs to be disassembled other than removing the pulley from the pump. I still would yank it from the car for ease of installation. Note most seal kits don't include the input shaft seal.

If the rest of the pump isn't leaking I wouldn't mess with it personally. The cold start seal is simple and may be prudent to do while the pump is out. The head seal is the one where people tend to trash their pumps the most often as there are parts held in place by spring tension from the head being bolted on.

As far as seal kits go, I'd probably stick to Bosch if I were doing it.

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[RustyCaddy]

the Flag kit on ebay from Angelo that comes with an input shaft seal and seem to be pretty good (have installed 2) but if they last 20 years like Bosch?  Have you tried Oregon Fuel injection for the kit, i have bought them at their shop before and with the input seal it runs around $35.00; that is a pretty good shop.  Have also used a Prothe input shaft seal which might have been okay but seemed to seep a little or i didn't install it well.

i have meet Marc, who sells this instruction video on resealing pumps. He is a good guy and the dvd comes with a manual too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Injection-Pump-Rebuild-DVD-CD-Kit-Bosch-VE-/222133174530?hash=item33b82b4102:m:mTsx9gkQC7XyBcb0iGrkXjA&vxp=mtr

Even with said video i have managed to screw up a working injection pump,

[Heron]

Thanks for the follow up fellas.

I was going to send it out to DCP in Memphis but after reading all the bad reviews on their shop I'm not.

I am afraid if the bushings are bad just changing a seal will be a short time fix.

If any of you were going to send your pump out who would you send it to?

My goal was to simply get the a new timing belt, water pump, change all fluids hoses and get her running/driving over the holiday. At this point it is probably not going to happen but I want it right.

[Rabbit79]

If any of you were going to send your pump out who would you send it to?

 

In years past the consensus on this board seems to have been that Giles is the best pump man around. I think he has a listing on the vendors page. From personal experience I've taken mine to a place called Oregon Fuel Injection in Eugene (I did notice you mentioned a place in Oregon... was that it?). I was familiar with them through my work, and we've always had good luck with them. I had them go through the whole pump, it cost me in the 800 dollar range. That was back in 2008 or so, haven't had any problems with it so far.

[Heron]

If any of you were going to send your pump out who would you send it to?

 

In years past the consensus on this board seems to have been that Giles is the best pump man around. I think he has a listing on the vendors page. From personal experience I've taken mine to a place called Oregon Fuel Injection in Eugene (I did notice you mentioned a place in Oregon... was that it?). I was familiar with them through my work, and we've always had good luck with them. I had them go through the whole pump, it cost me in the 800 dollar range. That was back in 2008 or so, haven't had any problems with it so far.

Yes, it is Oregon fuel injection.  They took the time to talk with me about the pump.

I've decided to replace a couple of seals first and see how it does. I know the main shaft seal is the culprit and since it's been sitting so long I'm not surprised it's weeping. As someone else said it could be bushings but even the mechanic at the local  diesel place said it was the old style metal seal and they were updated years ago. He said he'd try that first.

Can anyone educate me on the cold start linkage. As I said earlier, truck started and ran well.

But, after removing the pump I realized the linkage is only traveling from like 12 oclock to 2. Basically when it's "advanced" it's at 12 and then it goes back to 2 where the tab stops it from going further.
It can go back much further to the "stop" tab on the bracket. Looks like about 9:30. I can get it there but it would not be do-able with the cable, would be too tight.
Is this an issue with the pump or some setting that has been done when the pump was calibrated?  I'm not certain if I should try somehow to free it up so it moves back to 9:30 which I assume would give it much more advance when starting.
I did notice with this truck it seemed the cold start knob never moved out very much like I remember from my previous experiences with these.

[burn_your_money]

If you do decide to get it rebuilt, definitely send it to Giles and get a super pump build. Unless he's changed his prices you're looking at $560 US at the current exchange rate plus shipping.

I used to work for Giles and even though a pump is working fine/great/no issues there's a very high chance that it's well out of adjustment and would benefit from a full rebuild and recalibration. These old pumps are mainly controlled by springs that do fatigue over time.

That said, I'm also all for attempting to reseal it yourself. Make sure you do your homework as you can completely ruin your pump if you aren't careful. You do need some special tools but they are pretty cheap on eBay and if you have a welder you can just make them yourself. Make sure you put everything back as it came out and if you have extra pieces left over, take pictures and there's probably enough people on here that can tell you where they go.

Actually, being a 81 the button that presses on the throttle spring assembly thing (connects the governor to the control sleeve) is going to be worn out and out of spec. Later pumps they upgraded to harder materials. If you're happy with how it's running now then it's probably not too big of a deal but you'll likely notice a decent change with a full rebuild.

[Heron]

If you do decide to get it rebuilt, definitely send it to Giles and get a super pump build. Unless he's changed his prices you're looking at $560 US at the current exchange rate plus shipping.

I used to work for Giles and even though a pump is working fine/great/no issues there's a very high chance that it's well out of adjustment and would benefit from a full rebuild and recalibration. These old pumps are mainly controlled by springs that do fatigue over time.

That said, I'm also all for attempting to reseal it yourself. Make sure you do your homework as you can completely ruin your pump if you aren't careful. You do need some special tools but they are pretty cheap on eBay and if you have a welder you can just make them yourself. Make sure you put everything back as it came out and if you have extra pieces left over, take pictures and there's probably enough people on here that can tell you where they go.

Actually, being a 81 the button that presses on the throttle spring assembly thing (connects the governor to the control sleeve) is going to be worn out and out of spec. Later pumps they upgraded to harder materials. If you're happy with how it's running now then it's probably not too big of a deal but you'll likely notice a decent change with a full rebuild.

So far it seems to be solved. I replaced the easy seals, shaft and both cold start seals and no more leaks. But, the truck has yet to be driven. Idling in the backyard is not the same thing so once I get the rest of the issues taken care of and can drive it I won't know for sure.
Thx much for your recommendation!