Advice needed please.

[areabaylove]

 hello! My question starts with is it worth my while to continue tackling my 1.5d, right now it needs the connecting rod bearings replaced (how difficult is this to tackle?) If the 1.5 is pointless should i spend time trying to find a decent 1.6td or just find a 1.6 and remain content? Is the TD more likely to have problems due to turbo and all the special components for it? i really do appreciate all who respond, seriously!

[RunninWild]

How do you know it's just the rod bearings? They arnt that hard to replace its just a matter of keeping everything clean and torquing them down properly. But if the rpds bearings are done the mains are probably worn as well.

Might be cheaper and easier to just find a new engine in decent shape. A turbo engine won't necessarily wear faster than a non turbo it's all about maintenance.

[Rattlebox]

Correct me if I'm wrong guys, but aren't the 1.5s all 11mm blocks and prone to cracking? If I am not mistaken 1.6's were 11mm up to 84, then 12mm and much sturdier in that aspect. Finding a 1.6d or TD should not be too hard. If you are going to do engine work- do it on a 12mm block.

[Toby]

What cracks the blocks is leaving oil or antifreeze in the bolt holes when you put the head back on. The hydraulic pressure that builds up as the bolt goes in and splits the block from the bolt hole out. The corners are the one most likely to crack in my experience. Run a tap up and down the bolt hole until the bolt can be screwed all the way in and out with 2 fingers. Then take a long thin blow nozzle and blow the crap out of the bottoms of all the head bolt holes just before you put the head on. LIGHTLY oil the bolts. You will be fine if someone else hasn't already split the block. Look for cracks as soon as the head comes off. Juts a tiny line radiating out from the bolt hole.

[RabbitJockey]

Correct me if I'm wrong guys, but aren't the 1.5s all 11mm blocks and prone to cracking? If I am not mistaken 1.6's were 11mm up to 84, then 12mm and much sturdier in that aspect. Finding a 1.6d or TD should not be too hard. If you are going to do engine work- do it on a 12mm block.

1981 was the change over year for 11mm blocks, some were 12mm, and some were 11mm, after 81 they were all 12mm

in my opinion, you're best off doing a tdi-m swap at this point unless if you can find a good running 1.6 or 1.6td for a good price.

[thomas m]

There are good Youtube videos (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2asvYkvnWyc) on how to change the rod bearings and main bearings with the engine in the car.

The rods are the easier of the two, because there may be clearance issues between the main bearing cap hex and the aluminum seal carrier on #1 bearing cap. (Who designs these things?) One guy grinds a little off of the aluminum seal carrier to give more clearance for a socket.

The fellow talks about this in the above video. Many more on this topic.

[Jetmugg]

What has led you to believe that the rod bearings are bad in your 1.5?  Does the engine currently run?

Steve.

[areabaylove]

im almost positive its the bearings due to the infamous sound coming from deep within the motor and lack of oil.... the thing that confuses me is before this occurred the valve cap blow open and im curious if this is something due in part from me installing an oil catch can causing some adverse pressure build up; along side the lack of oil. motor has compression upon handcranking

[Toby]

If it is making bottom end noises its too late for bearings to fix it. The lack of oil is the problem, not a symptom. That is "Taps" you here playing in the background....

[areabaylove]

taps?