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#30
by
golfmk1tdr
on 24 Jan, 2016 14:48
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204-4706 is the part number for the head studs. Intercooler depends on how much boost you want. To be honest if your not going for a lot of power or high boost save your money and just use your stock head bolts until you have a problem. 2.5" downpipe wouldn't hurt. The t3 is pretty big and will have a lot of lag. As for the oil feed I'd just source an oil filter housing from a turbo diesel that has the nipple built into it.
Is suggest installing an exhaust temp gauge. That will let you know how safe your running your engine and help you tube it for the most power without causing damage.
Your stock pump will work but you'll definitely want to upgrade asap.
Sorry to hijack the thread, but I am just now buying head studs from ARP and I am ordering 251-4701 studs (I have 1.6 hydro/franken TD).
Why are you telling him to use 204-4706
Is this for 11mm bolts? Which ones are the right ones for my engine?
I hope someone replies soon because I planned to order them tomorrow but now I will wait because I am not sure I am ordering right ones anymore
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#31
by
RustyCaddy
on 25 Jan, 2016 03:18
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Why are you telling him to use 204-4706 Is this for 11mm bolts? Which ones are the right ones for my engine?
I hope someone replies soon because I planned to order them tomorrow but now I will wait because I am not sure I am ordering right ones anymore
http://vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,7919.0.html
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#32
by
RabbitJockey
on 25 Jan, 2016 06:56
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that is the older number from before arp made vw diesel specific head studs.
for an 11mm engine you simply use studs made for a vw gas engine.
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#33
by
libbydiesel
on 25 Jan, 2016 07:18
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for an 11mm engine you simply use studs made for a vw gas engine. send the 11mm block to the scrap pile and save yourself a lot of time, money, and aggravation by sourcing a 12mm engine.
FIFY
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#34
by
RabbitJockey
on 25 Jan, 2016 08:12
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for an 11mm engine you simply use studs made for a vw gas engine. send the 11mm block to the scrap pile and save yourself a lot of time, money, and aggravation by sourcing a 12mm engine.
FIFY
completely agree
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#35
by
VWrabbit317
on 26 Jan, 2016 09:25
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As common as bears whizzing in the woods.
You can fit a new valve cover gasket and cam end orange circular seal and actual cam seal. Always tighten down the valve cover gradually/evenly as that helps it to seal a little better. You can use SPARINGLY amounts of like Perma-tex sealer to help with the valve cover gasket AND on the cam gear end at each end of the orange circular seal.
BUT, the key is to NOT overdo it on the sealant and have some squeezed on the inside which will find it's way into your oil pump screen.
The cams tend to form a hairline circular-groove where the circular cam seal runs (over time...normal). If you ever have the cam out, use some 1000 grit or finer sandpaper in the palm of your hand to help remove the little groove.....twist-twist-twist, etc.
You will probably never get the seals to stop weeping. So, car washes can be a friend to you from time to time.
I would suspect you need intermediate shaft seal and crank seal AND oil pan seal as well. The usual stuff.
Ok sounds good. So I'm putting a cart together and it seems that the cam seal, crank seal, and intermediate shaft seal are the same circular 47x32x10 seal. Does that sound right?
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Rabbit/Engine/46/1#GAP4560 Also, I'm not able to find the cam end orange seal? Unless Im just confusing myself.
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#36
by
VWrabbit317
on 05 Feb, 2016 07:32
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just received a new south egt gauge... didn't realize the probe was like 6 inches long! What's everyone using for egt gauges or does anyone know of a shorter probe that'll work with my gauge?
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#37
by
vanbcguy
on 05 Feb, 2016 07:48
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The probe can be bent to fit your installation. The actual thermocouple is in the tip, the rest of the probe is just a stainless steel jacket over the wires. Just set it up so the tip is positioned in the center of your manifold turbo outlet.
Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk
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#38
by
VWrabbit317
on 05 Feb, 2016 07:58
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The probe can be bent to fit your installation. The actual thermocouple is in the tip, the rest of the probe is just a stainless steel jacket over the wires. Just set it up so the tip is positioned in the center of your manifold turbo outlet.
Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk
Ok good to know! New south just emailed me back and he said I could swap it out with a 90degree one they have but I'd have to pay shipping both ways, he didn't even mention it was ok to bend. Thanks for the help
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#39
by
vanbcguy
on 05 Feb, 2016 07:59
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Mine was bent 90 degrees when I got it and I ended up straightening it out to fit my setup. 😀
Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk
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#40
by
fatmobile
on 10 Feb, 2016 12:40
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Sometimes the cam isn't leaking around the seal.
Sometimes it's leaking between the head and journal.
Libby pointed out it's just metal on metal and oil seeps between them and out the front.
He suggests some of the never hardening sealant.
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#41
by
VWrabbit317
on 10 Jun, 2016 14:23
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Ok guys fixed all the rust holes in my floor boards and I'm getting ready to assemble the rest of the stuff on the motor (manifolds, exhaust, etc.) I just came across a 1.6td injection pump that'll be here this week that I'm going to swap in place of mine. My question now is.. Will I need to find td injectors now or will my n/a ones still do the job?
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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#42
by
fatmobile
on 02 Sep, 2016 10:34
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NA injectors will work fine.