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#15
by
mammonista
on 25 Nov, 2015 19:14
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what turbo, new or used, would fit the 1.6td exhaust manifold? and space is limited, I think the compressor inlet is about an inch from the van engine support member!
thanks everybody by the way
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#16
by
RunninWild
on 25 Nov, 2015 19:50
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There are 2 styles of manifolds a 4 bolt and a 3 bolt. Smaller turbo's use the 3 bolt and the bigger stock turbo's use the 4 bolt. A k14 seems to be the best blend of spooling for medium boost levels. K24 or t3 if you want to run a lot of boost.
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#17
by
mammonista
on 25 Nov, 2015 20:12
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memory is a funny thing...it's been soooooo long ago that I did the original quantum td into the diesel van swap that I kinda forgot. Now I seem to remember that I sourced the quantum as donor car because that flavor 1.6td was oriented north/south in the engine bay and the exhaust manifold outlet was at the end instead of the middle which allowed the turbo to clear the van engine support carriers. does that sound right? it's been almost 15 or 16 years since I did the swap.
so maybe I'm better trying to fix the wastegate actuator housing on the t3. Since van-no-mo is on the heavy side (3,600 lbs.) I'm not particularly interested in a fast spool, and I know this thing will fit if I can just fix it.
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#18
by
mammonista
on 27 Nov, 2015 07:10
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Okay, apparently a K14 is the way to go here. Now the challenge is to find one as inexpensively as possible with the trapezoidal exhaust gas inlet flange. They can be had for $450, rebuilt out of Germany but that seems a bit much. Any ideas?
thanks in advance
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#19
by
vanbcguy
on 27 Nov, 2015 11:10
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It was never a super common turbo in North America. AAZ cars in Canada would probably be the best bet. Try contacting CanadaCatalyst (they advertise on here)
Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk
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#20
by
mammonista
on 30 Nov, 2015 20:29
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Bought a used K14 turbo off German Ebay tonight for $120. Will cost $60 to ship to the states. Once it arrives does it make sense to try to rebuild it, or just run it as is and hope for the best? The seller said it came off a running car and was working as it should...
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#21
by
RunninWild
on 01 Dec, 2015 07:22
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If there isnt any excessive shaft play, no signs of oil leaks and the waste gate isnt seized I see no reason to rebuild it.
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#22
by
mammonista
on 01 Dec, 2015 17:19
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okay dumb question here. how to tell if the wastegate is seized?
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#23
by
RunninWild
on 01 Dec, 2015 21:25
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You should be able to push it open by hand and it should snap closed when you let go of it.
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#24
by
mammonista
on 03 Dec, 2015 07:07
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gasket between turbo and exhaust manifold? gasket between turbo and exhaust pipe?
thanks in advance for answers
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#25
by
RunninWild
on 03 Dec, 2015 07:35
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Yes you want gaskets in those places.
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#26
by
libbydiesel
on 03 Dec, 2015 11:15
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I do not use a gasket between turbo and manifold or between the turbo and the downpipe. In both cases I use a light smear of Ultra Copper and have never had an exhaust leak in more than a decade of doing so on quite a few vehicles.
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#27
by
mammonista
on 03 Dec, 2015 12:54
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that's what i needed to know! thanks!!!
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#28
by
mammonista
on 21 Dec, 2015 18:41
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My used K14 from Germany arrived in the mail today. Appears to be in excellent condition and I think the cost was very reasonable. $120 for the turbo on German Ebay and $35 to have it shipped to the U.S.
But I do have a couple of questions...
(pic#1) I assume the long 'pipe' is the pressure (inlet) side of the oil lube for the bearings and the outlet side (to the pan) is on the other side of the bearing housing? The only reason I ask is it was exactly opposite on my old T3 turbo...or maybe I just had it plumbed wrong!
The inlet side is a larger diameter hole than the outlet side which makes sense I guess, but if anyone knows for sure I'd appreciate the input.

(pic#2)And can the housing sides be rotated to accommodate different oil pipe and air compressor orientations by loosening the green or blue arrows and is there any downside to that?
thanks in advance!
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#29
by
theman53
on 22 Dec, 2015 06:18
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Bigger hole is the drain 100% of the time