Aaz pump on 1.6 block

[RunninWild]

Probably should have researched this before I tried to mount it. I've read of people doing it but can't find any details. I have the newer style pump with the 2 piece sprocket that has the larger mounting hole in the bracket. Long story short my aaz bracket has no holes on the block to mount too and I'd rather not use the 1.6 pump. What's the best way to go about mounting this? Should I just enlarge the hole so my pump will mount to the 1.6 bracket? Something tells me the hole is a precise mounting point to hold the pump in place and doing it by hand isn't the best idea?

[RunninWild]

I'm gonna bolt the aaz mount to the 1.6 mount and use the hole from the aaz mount as a template and just drill it out. Anyone see any problems with this?

[libbydiesel]

That will probably actually work if you decent have hand skills.  You want the pump to rotate easily but also a close fit.

[theman53]

I would have probably traded you that one for one of my 1.6 if you covered shipping.

[RunninWild]

I would theman but my parts are coming this week and I've gone far too long without a vehicle to wait another 2 weeks or so to exchange them.

Plan is to bolt them together then drill a series of holes along the perimeter then file the edge down smooth. A dremel would be nice but sadly I don't have one. Hmm I wonder if milwaukee makes a m12 rotary tool. Wouldn't mind getting more power tools 😀

I really think the 3 bolts are plenty strong enough. If can make a circle even close to snug it should be fine.

[RunninWild]

Finished!
Step 1:
 bolt both brackets together then drill a series of holes along the perimeter of the larger hole.

Step 2:
 break the chunks off with some vice grips.
Step 3:
Grab a pizza box to catch the filings, put on a movie and start filing with your old half bastard until you have a perfect fit!

[libbydiesel]

That's fairly ghetto, but it will probably work.  You will need to adjust the belt tracking, so do that before getting too much hooked up.  Sprocket DOWN, plunger/head UP makes it track closer to the block and vice versa.  Sometimes you can get away with moving just one part of the bracket.  Sometimes you need to move both in opposite directions to get it to track correctly.

[RunninWild]

What's ghetto about it? Its identical to how it mounted on the other pump.

[RunninWild]

How do you know if the tracking is set properly without having it all hooked up and running the engine? Or am I just trying to get the sprocket to sit parallel to the crank sprocket?

[libbydiesel]

I meant no offense.  To me 'ghetto' is not necessarily a criticism.  From the picture it is not exactly round, but rather a bit rough and hand-hewn with errant marks.  It looks like you did a decent job, though, and it should work fine.  Hopefully the pump does not have room to wiggle in the bore.  You could upgrade it to 'high-end ghetto' with a little sandpaper and spray paint.

As far as tracking, you can install the pump bracket, pump and belt.  Tension the belt with the belt in the center of cam and pump.  Rotate the crank by hand until it stops wandering.  Adjust the bracket, lather, rinse, repeat, until the belt does stays centered in the pump pulley.  That tracking adjustment is required any time the pump bracket is unbolted from the block. 

 

 

[RunninWild]

I did sand and paint it I just didnt take a finished pic. The circle is almost perfectly round and the pump sits in it snug. It takes a decent amount of force to rotate the bracket on the pump Maybe it's just the pic that makes it look off. The only part that isn't a perfect circle is near the cutout for the original timing lock. Rather then file that round I just cut it with my grinder.

The head gasket should be here during the week. I'll play with the tracking when it arrives. I'm assuming the bracket on the side of the block shouldn't need to be played with and most of the time front bracket adjustment is sufficient.

Any idea why the cam isn't indexed with a keyway? I'm aware of the timing procedure but wouldn't it have made more sense for vw to have marked the sprocket and head to make it easier to find tdc?

[libbydiesel]

From my experience, about 1/2 the time moving the front part of the bracket is all that is necessary and about 1/2 the time the part on the end of the block needs to be adjusted as well.

The cam is not keyed because it needs to be more accurately adjusted than a key would allow.  If it were keyed, variations in timing belt length or head/block/crank alignment could make it as much as 1/2 a crank tooth off which is too much.  They could have gone with a 2-part pulley but this way is simpler.