Silly compound snail smoker

[gear_grinder]

thinking about building something a little silly for a daily driver out of 81 1.6d 4dr.

stock 1.6d fuel pump cranked to the max
merc or merc nozzle'd injectors
big air-air intercooler
t04e w/ anti surge housing and 50mm wheel over t3 .42 comp housing with 42mm wheel.
38mm WG between the t3 and t4
no wastegate on the t4/dump (maybe depending on drive pressure)
obviously basic diesel gauge setup (oil temp, boost, and pyro).
re-torquing/fresh bolts for stock HG, and when that blows studs and 1.9mls

pretty much planning on making a bit of a rat rod rabbit.  going to stick the atm turbo out of the hood and have a ?hood? stack (even though the turbo will be outside/partially sticking out of the hood).  If its smokey and obnoxious, i don't care. 

biggest thing is with the compounds is im not sure if the .42/42mm t3 is small enough.  with this compound setup im trying to make it as responsive as possible (to make it as fun to drive as possible and have a side effect of clearing smoke).  what do the 1.9tds run for stock turbos.  what are the wheel specs and what is the turbine housing volume?

id like it to be a bit smokey, a bit loud, and have enough power to school some "fast" hondas that the flat bill shed-yuppies drive around.

sound a little crazy? good, thats what i do best

[RunninWild]

T3 is the biggest and laggiest turbo that came in these engines. I think your turbo's are too big and would be very laggy. a k04 or k14 over a t3 or k24 would probably be a better idea for a smoother, more responsive power curve. Stock injectors would be fine as they flow plenty. Your going to want a turbo injection pump at the minimum with a Giles pump being ideal. In all honesty a Giles pump and a single holset he200wg would be a much easier install and probably just as fast as a cheaper twin turbo setup.

81 has 11mm head bolts if I remember correctly which are known to fail pretty easily, especially with the amount of boost your probably wanting to run. Swapping in a newer 1.6td would save you a lot of time and effort because your stock engine wouldn't last long with no oil squirters and the smaller head bolts.

[gear_grinder]

T3 is the biggest and laggiest turbo that came in these engines. I think your turbo's are too big and would be very laggy. a k04 or k14 over a t3 or k24 would probably be a better idea for a smoother, more responsive power curve. Stock injectors would be fine as they flow plenty. Your going to want a turbo injection pump at the minimum with a Giles pump being ideal. In all honesty a Giles pump and a single holset he200wg would be a much easier install and probably just as fast as a cheaper twin turbo setup.

81 has 11mm head bolts if I remember correctly which are known to fail pretty easily, especially with the amount of boost your probably wanting to run. Swapping in a newer 1.6td would save you a lot of time and effort because your stock engine wouldn't last long with no oil squirters and the smaller head bolts.

please read my original post more carefully.

t3 is just a platform.  it depends on what t3, many varieties of t3 turbos were made.  from what im seeing the stock TDI turbo has a larger inducer making it look on paper more "laggy" than a 42mm inducer t3, but it also depends on the relationship between the turbine housing volume, wheel specs, and drive pressure. 

the TD and D pump both have the same fueling potential from what ive read (at 9mm units), one just has boost bias fuel addition and takeaway.  this will make the engine more efficient and less smokey vs a standard pump but its max power potential is basically identical.  i'd like it if it was a bit smokey, it adds theater.

a fresh set of tty bolts will help the head issues vs stock 30yo units im sure, or i may just go studs straight away.   i've seen alot of engines with higher specific torque/cylinder output than what this pile would be making running on 10mm fasteners.

Oil temp gauge.  I dont plan on sticking it just in the sump, i'd put it inline with the pressure feed to the oil filter (in a sandwich adapter) so i'd have one of the higher temperature readings around the engine.  if the oil temp can stay safe at that location, then it will be fine pretty much everywhere else.

[RunninWild]

The problem with the 10mm bolts isn't the bolts itself but more to do with the block cracking if I remember correctly. I also don't believe arp makes studs for the 10mm blocks. You seem to be pretty informed on pumps and turbo's. So some reading on the forum and you can figure out the strength and weaknesses of the different blocks. Alcaid has just made a twin turbo setup and it's very nice. I'm sure he could give you some advice. There's also a twin turbo build in the forum on engine swaps into other vehicles on a Toyota Tacoma you should have a look at.

[gear_grinder]

The problem with the 10mm bolts isn't the bolts itself but more to do with the block cracking if I remember correctly. I also don't believe arp makes studs for the 10mm blocks. You seem to be pretty informed on pumps and turbo's. So some reading on the forum and you can figure out the strength and weaknesses of the different blocks. Alcaid has just made a twin turbo setup and it's very nice. I'm sure he could give you some advice. There's also a twin turbo build in the forum on engine swaps into other vehicles on a Toyota Tacoma you should have a look at.

the bolts should be 11mm like you said earlier (i was referencing 10mm to make a point that the diameter is probably not a weak link).

if the bolt shank is a smaller diameter there should be more materials around the lands, assuming all things equal.  cracking probably comes more from garbage in the threads and bolt lands when people are putting them back together.

Compounds, not twins.  the turbos are not even close to the same lol.

[gear_grinder]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-204-4701

these are also listed here on this forum for 11mm bolt blocks

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=21948.0

[RabbitJockey]

if you're going to run ancient turbos you're not far too off on sizing them.  i wouldn't mess with an 11mm block though.  if it's running fine keep it going but i wouldnt turbo it or the head ever needs to come off i'd just get another 12mm engine.

[RabbitJockey]

you would also need a very serious injection pump to get the real use of those turbos

[libbydiesel]

The 11mm blocks crack if you look at them sideways...  Don't waste your time.  You will literally spend considerably more time building it than you will get to drive it before it fails. 

[RabbitJockey]

you're going to need to consider the exhaust sides of this setup up.  but honestly if you used a 42mm(50 trim) t3 with a .48 a/r housing or used a bigger t25 hot side to make a t28 hybrid you will probably be at the limit of what a 1.6 can make power wise anyway, especially with old turbos.

[gear_grinder]

you're going to need to consider the exhaust sides of this setup up.  but honestly if you used a 42mm(50 trim) t3 with a .48 a/r housing or used a bigger t25 hot side to make a t28 hybrid you will probably be at the limit of what a 1.6 can make power wise anyway, especially with old turbos.

the high pressure turbo is not the turbo you use to make the maximum power in a compound turbocharged application.  the t04e with its 50mm wheel is basically the airflow maximum of the setup.  the 42mm .42ar comp housing on the t3 is just to get the engine making enough exhaust energy to spool the t04e with a reasonable response time.

depending on the smoke, response, drive pressure, and EGTs of the setup i may go to a bigger atmospheric turbo like a gt30, gt35, or hy35.

[RabbitJockey]

you're going to need to consider the exhaust sides of this setup up.  but honestly if you used a 42mm(50 trim) t3 with a .48 a/r housing or used a bigger t25 hot side to make a t28 hybrid you will probably be at the limit of what a 1.6 can make power wise anyway, especially with old turbos.

the high pressure turbo is not the turbo you use to make the maximum power in a compound turbocharged application.  the t04e with its 50mm wheel is basically the airflow maximum of the setup.  the 42mm .42ar comp housing on the t3 is just to get the engine making enough exhaust energy to spool the t04e with a reasonable response time.

depending on the smoke, response, drive pressure, and EGTs of the setup i may go to a bigger atmospheric turbo like a gt30, gt35, or hy35.

it's not that simple, even the small turbo has to flow properly and efficiently for your power goals especially on the exhaust side, you can't just put on a k03 with a t4 and make 500hp.  hy35 would be better than the t04e, although they are about the same size.

[gear_grinder]

it's not that simple, even the small turbo has to flow properly and efficiently for your power goals especially on the exhaust side, you can't just put on a k03 with a t4 and make 500hp.  hy35 would be better than the t04e, although they are about the same size.

to preform perfectly no, but to preform well enough sure...

as far as exhaust restrictions are concerned, it will probably have a 38mm gate between the high and low pressure turbo's turbines.  if that isnt enough flow i'll go to a 44mm gate.

the compressor from a 42mm t3 to a ~50mm t4 frame would work fine.  if anything there may not be enough of a split and id be leaving some available boost on the table if i had a smaller high pressure unit. 

[alex17young]

Don't let the 11mm block scare you. Mine is tougher than nails with the Arp's.

[gear_grinder]

Don't let the 11mm block scare you. Mine is tougher than nails with the Arp's.

i'll run it until something lets loose and fix it then