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82 Diesel Rabbit checking in
by
82EtherBunny
on 06 Oct, 2015 11:49
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Just purchased an 82 diesel Rabbit. Dropped it off to have the brakes gone through before I start to tear into the steering / suspension and put it into service. First diesel, so I imagine I'll have questions. Good thing is that it doesn't smoke, isn't noisy and goes 70 - 75 all day with pedal left.
Cheers
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#1
by
ORCoaster
on 06 Oct, 2015 18:01
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Just remember Keep the Ether in the can, not in the cylinders. Meant for larger cylinders not the bunny size.
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#2
by
Dakotakid
on 07 Oct, 2015 01:33
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And, the reason you elected not to learn to work on your own brakes is......?
Believe me, if you have hopes of driving one of these old cars...you really need to step up. NO ONE can afford to pay someone to work on these. If so, you would certainly buy something better.
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#3
by
82EtherBunny
on 07 Oct, 2015 07:09
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Dakotakid,
I've been doing VW brakes since the 60's. So, when I did the math, it's a matter of time vs. ability. Seriously, the guy I have doing it is good, reasonable and has all the tools. This way I can get to the not so critical stuff myself sooner. Before I put it on the road I go through the front suspension, rear suspension and brakes. Brakes will get done while I'm working this week, then I can futz around this weekend cleaning up the rest.
The body's a bit rusty and crusty, but very solid in the right places.
Suggestions on diesel specific winterizing ?
I have new glo-plugs (if needed), normal stuff has been done, oil change, antifreeze, extra set of snow tires to swap on for heavy snows etc.
Anyway,
Good to be here, looking forward to 50 mpg.
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#4
by
TylerDurden
on 07 Oct, 2015 08:19
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Welcome.
I suggest popping the outboard dash vents out and adding new foam to the vents' damper doors.
IIRC, the Rabbits have unheated air routed to those vents, (regardless of temperature slider setting). In the very cold weather, having that airflow leak into the cabin is beyond annoying, particularly on a long drive away from your shop.
If you are in a cold climate, an electric engine heater (bypass hose or block) is an easy addition.
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#5
by
ORCoaster
on 07 Oct, 2015 15:38
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When Old Man winter come knocking there are a few items I used to look at prior to that knock.
You hit on some, I have new glo-plugs (if needed), normal stuff has been done, oil change, antifreeze, extra set of snow tires to swap on for heavy snows etc
Traction is important to keep insurance claims to a zero. antifreeze and system flush good, oil change check but in some places it is advisable to drop down a weight from what you might be running now to something thinner so it isn't so hard to crank it up in the cold. New Glow plugs, good to have but even better is the modifications that will get more juice to them without running it through the current buss bar system. Do individual wires off a distribution block that is powered by a relay that is activated by the old system. Primary reason for not starting is GP not warming up.
Finally somethings not on your list. The mother of all problems in cold weather, The Battery! It needs to be right size, right cold cranking amps and above all charged up. I like to throw the trickle charger on mine in the winter to be sure all those lights, blower motor, wipers and defroster in the back don't drain me down too badly. It depends on your length of drive after the car starts. I have such a short commute to work that I have gone to one of those solar powered trickle chargers plugged into the cigarette lighter spot to keep the battery up. For me the 25 bucks was worth the time and unknown occurrence of needing a jump. No one will do that anymore have you noticed that? I carry cables but they are buried under the extra fuel tank so a bit of a pain to get at easily.
Wipers are the other thing I would attend to. They don't last around here at all because of the continual rain and maybe some salt effect from the ocean. Either way If you can't see them there is no getting out of the way.
Final thing all the lights, in the dash and around the car. Signal and headlights work right? Brakes and stuff in back, even license plate light are needed to keep from being stopped by the man.
That's my list. Enjoy.
Good luck putting the winter face on.
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#6
by
82EtherBunny
on 08 Oct, 2015 09:52
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Got the "Pimp your Glow Plugs" parts ordered.
Always have a spare battery and cables in the main car, one on trickle in the garage.
I have a couple block heaters laying around, may include one of them in my plans. I'm in Ohio, so winters aren't that bad, just goes from cold to muddy a lot.
Of course there's the carharts, ski mask and boots JIC all my preparations fall short and I have to walk to the nearest house.
Cheers
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#7
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 08 Oct, 2015 10:00
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you ll probably have to adjust the valves, need tool & shims, and feelers. changed fuel filter?& air filter? 1st thing to do,, dont forget fuel treatment, all the time youll need to add fuel 'conditioner', in winter youll need a winterizer/anti-gel, i use the regular stuff you can find at auto stores(forget the brand, ?diesel kleen?), if the temps go below 20f i put some in, for lower temps i add more so the fuel wont gel/freeze. in cold weather i keep at least 1/2 a tank,,depending where you are you may want a thinner oil for cold starts. i feel a conv. 15w40 oil gets cold @about10-15f, so perhaps a synthetic like a 5w30 may be smart.
a rabbit or golf or jetta mk1&2 brakes are fairly simple, take wheels off and a 6mm allen will take front calipers off, you can go from there, for the rears, you just pop the outter wheel bearing out and the drums should just come off with out much problem. you just need a tool for wheel bearing adjustment for nut, outter wheel bearing on these has to be serviced about every 6months, regrease outter and readjust(need a new cotter key/pin). a few other tools are channel locks, needle nose, adjustible pliers, screwdriver(s), &a plastic hammer. some of the basics,, when you get a chance, you say the steering needs work, the rack can be expensive to do and difficult, the other thing is the u-joint in the steering column, can go,,other than that id consider rebuilding whole suspension, in a car this old i do it all, to the rubber bushings that have to be pressed in to a-arms. check tire rack for bilsteins, from them you can get the sport shocks/struts for a good price, i doubt youll have a problem with them,, and they ride nice, and are performancy.
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#8
by
82EtherBunny
on 15 Oct, 2015 13:18
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Took a bit longer than I thought, but the brakes are done. It appears the front pads were put on by the PO upside down & backwards or some such. Anyway, new pads, rotors and bleeding did the trick. Like the old saying "Stops on a dime and gives 9 cents change" Gonna start on the suspension this weekend. Not really after a "sporty" car. Mostly a reliable 50 mpg Rabbit. That said, any suggestions as to where to get cheap OEM quality shocks/struts ? Bilsteins would be nice, but not in the budget.
Thanks for all the replies.
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#9
by
Dakotakid
on 15 Oct, 2015 23:18
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Check Rock Auto for close-outs.
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#10
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 02 Nov, 2015 09:27
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try tire rack, affordable prices on bilsteins last i saw
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#11
by
DouglasLami
on 01 Feb, 2016 05:26
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