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#15
by
One_punchmachinegun
on 09 Oct, 2015 09:41
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Nothing?
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#16
by
jmaddocks
on 10 Oct, 2015 05:42
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Sorry - I have a lot going on right now and probably won't be able to take any pics for a few days. Good news is that the vacuum pump bracket broke on my son's drive home from work last night, so the car won't be going anywhere soon...
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#17
by
One_punchmachinegun
on 10 Oct, 2015 20:53
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I'm sorry to hear that. That's no fun. Please do what you need to do and when you get a chance and think of it, if you could that would be great.
If you need any vacuum pieces let me know. I believe I have a few pieces laying around.
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#18
by
One_punchmachinegun
on 17 Oct, 2015 10:20
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So I was able to make up the wastegate. Went well, what I ended up doing was getting the old actuator arm out of the factory turbo, drilling out the 4 little welds at the top, splitting it there, and welded it over the new actuator arm at the correct angle. Worked great.
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#19
by
One_punchmachinegun
on 17 Oct, 2015 10:21
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#20
by
camboscams
on 25 Oct, 2015 12:07
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So after a bit of research I think i need to rework my oil drain, and maybe my oil pressure too. I was reading a publication from cummins saying that the oil drain cannot return below the oil level. I have heard this forever and somewhat disregarded this as my drain was already welded into the pan. But on this go around I think I will try to right any wrongs to treat this turbo as well as I can. My current set up is like many others around here, a -8an drain fitting welded as high in the pan as possible which I think is still below the level of oil. So my thoughts are, drill and tap the block and drain the oil there like a tdi or to run a second hose going from the pan fitting to either the valve cover or the front crankcase vent and then tee the turbo return into that line above the oil level... I included a horrible sketch to help visualize my thoughts.
Next my pressure issues. I read a report about the he351 turbo saying that max cold oil pressure is 88psi so i assume that the he200 has similar specs. Now my current cold pressure is well above 100 when slightly reved but once warmed it is in the normal range. Will this cause damage over time or shaft seal leakage? I have heard simaller stories about 100+ psi oil pressures in these engines so is my pump relief valve functioning correctly?
https://goo.gl/photos/LdCdUyCtsuV8i1iG8
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#21
by
camboscams
on 29 Oct, 2015 15:36
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Planning on installing next weekend, anyone gave any input on my issues?
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#22
by
theman53
on 29 Oct, 2015 17:33
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I cannot comment on the pressure, but if you run a bigger feed line you might be able to reduce that pressure a fuzz.
I would not run a "vent to the valve cover" the drain to the block will be more than enough. The drain into the pan is about 2" below the gasket surface of the oil pan, the oil level is below that
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#23
by
camboscams
on 30 Oct, 2015 09:36
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So by running a larger feed it would lower cold oil "restriction" thus decreasing oil pressure. I could see that.. I'm at a -4an line now and I have a hunch I won't be able to go much larger on the oil feed adaptor on the turbo as it's only a 10mm fitting to begin with. But I'll see what I can get
So are you saying that the oil level is 2"+ lower then the gasket surface of the pan? I have never checked nor measured but that seems like a lot.
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#24
by
theman53
on 30 Oct, 2015 21:48
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Yeah approx. 2" lower. When you fire the engine it has probably around 2 quarts in the engine while running and then filter you only have probably 2 quarts in the pan. Look at the dipstick and see how far it goes into the pan. You will realize that it is not up to the brim. The crank doesn't like dragging all the oil around if possible.
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#25
by
burn_your_money
on 01 Nov, 2015 23:32
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Running a larger oil feed line may actually increase the oil pressure at the turbo.
Your best bet is probably to switch to synthetic.
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#26
by
camboscams
on 02 Nov, 2015 09:24
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I'm glad to hear that my current drain setup will work fine. Thanks for the input TheMan,
The engine is well past being broken in, if i do switch to synthetic any recommendations on a brand? I already run Rotella, and i have heard that T6 is good but would i still want to run 15w-40?
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#27
by
burn_your_money
on 02 Nov, 2015 22:32
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I'd run a 5w or 0w depending on what is cheapest. I don't think there is anything wrong with Rotella synthetics but I wouldn't hesitate to use any of the other brands either if they popped up on sale.
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#28
by
One_punchmachinegun
on 03 Nov, 2015 03:20
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Is your oil weight choice also based off your location and the lower temperatures or other reasons?
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#29
by
burn_your_money
on 03 Nov, 2015 10:41
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It's mainly for the purpose of keeping cold start oil pressures under 100. You might be able to get away with a 10w or even a 15w with the synthetic but I wouldn't go out of my way to try and keep the cold weight number high.