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#30
by
vanbcguy
on 08 Sep, 2015 11:17
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Being I'm going to look for a new head and need a intake anyways would it make sense to find a 1.9 head?
Not really. The 1.9 head lowers the compression ratio a few points which will make cold starts more difficult. It'll tend to be smoky after it does start too. Unless you're planning on building a really high power IDI (like 150+ hp) then the AAZ head's drawbacks will probably outweigh its positives.
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#31
by
libbydiesel
on 08 Sep, 2015 11:48
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A new 1.6TD head will either be a Chinese knock-off or very hard to find and $$$. In your position I would choose to rebuild the head you have.
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#32
by
turboedbug
on 08 Sep, 2015 13:10
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The price for a ks aaz head is around 900$ I ended up going that route as it was hard for me to find a good quality head locally.
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#33
by
libbydiesel
on 08 Sep, 2015 13:25
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With replacing all the valves, lifters, guides, and inserts and having the necessary machine work done on that head it would be half the cost of a new KS AAZ head.
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#34
by
96_yota
on 08 Sep, 2015 17:42
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#35
by
libbydiesel
on 08 Sep, 2015 18:00
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Definitely hydraulic lifters. Replace the two cracked pre-chamber inserts.
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#36
by
theman53
on 08 Sep, 2015 19:18
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???CY was done by 84, hyrdro didn't even think of coming out until the late 85 built stuff??? That is a unicorn I believe.
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#37
by
Dakotakid
on 08 Sep, 2015 19:54
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You know, a Bentley manual would help you as time goes by. If you do rebuild the head, there is info regarding the valve length vs. the process of seat grinding/cutting which you will need to be aware of.
It will be interesting to see ALL of the main bearings laid out side-by-side as it does seem someone renewed the pistons and left the bearings untouched. Would be cool to see them all paired up (face up) on a piece of cardboard with journals numbered. It helps to judge how healthy the crank journals are for all us'n arm-chair mechanics
.
Also, can't wait to see the condition of that front int. shaft bearing.
Autopsies are interesting.
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#38
by
TylerDurden
on 08 Sep, 2015 20:07
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Maybe Audi or offshore...
1.6 R4 TD 44-51kW[edit]
identification
parts code prefix: 068
engine configuration & engine displacement
inline four-cylinder (R4/I4) turbodiesel; 1,588 cubic centimetres (96.9 cu in); bore x stroke: 76.5 by 86.4 millimetres (3.01 in × 3.40 in), stroke ratio: 0.89:1 - undersquare/long-stroke, 391.1 cc per cylinder, compression ratio: 23.0:1
cylinder block & crankcase
grey cast iron; five main bearings
cylinder head & valvetrain
two valves per cylinder, each with two concentric valve springs, 8 valves total, shim-adjustable bucket tappets, timing belt-driven single overhead camshaft (SOHC)
aspiration
Garrett or Kühnle, Kopp & Kausch (KKK) turbocharger, cast aluminium alloy intake manifold, cast iron exhaust manifold
fuel system
timing belt-driven Bosch mechanical distributor injection pump, indirect fuel injection into whirl chamber
EWG-rated motive power & torque outputs, application and ID codes
45 kilowatts (61 PS; 60 bhp) — Volkswagen Industrial Motor (68A: 04/83-08/88), (686: 03/89-12/90)
50 kilowatts (68 PS; 67 bhp) — Volkswagen Industrial Motor (68C: 04/83-03/94)
DIN-rated motive power & torque outputs, ID codes
51 kilowatts (69 PS; 68 bhp) @ 4,500 rpm; 133 newton metres (98 lbf·ft) @ 2,600 rpm — CY, JR
51 kilowatts (69 PS; 68 bhp) @ 4,500 rpm; 138 newton metres (102 lbf·ft) @ 2,500 rpm — JX
applications
Audi 80 (CY: 02/82-03/87), Volkswagen Golf (CY: 8/81-7/84, JR: 08/83-10/91), Volkswagen Jetta (CY: 8/81-7/84, JR: 12/83-10/91), Volkswagen Passat (CY: 8/81-4/88), Volkswagen Type 2 (JX: 8/84-7/91), Volkswagen Type 2 Syncro (JX: 8/85-7/92)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_discontinued_Volkswagen_Group_diesel_engines#Four-cylinder_EA111_dieselswww.clubvw.org.au/vwengines
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#39
by
96_yota
on 08 Sep, 2015 20:59
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You know, a Bentley manual would help you as time goes by. If you do rebuild the head, there is info regarding the valve length vs. the process of seat grinding/cutting which you will need to be aware of.
It will be interesting to see ALL of the main bearings laid out side-by-side as it does seem someone renewed the pistons and left the bearings untouched. Would be cool to see them all paired up (face up) on a piece of cardboard with journals numbered. It helps to judge how healthy the crank journals are for all us'n arm-chair mechanics .
Also, can't wait to see the condition of that front int. shaft bearing.
Autopsies are interesting.
Probably a good idea, are they similar to a chilton's manual? Are they specific to models or engine? Ill pull all the bearings tomorrow and do just that.
Maybe Audi or offshore...
1.6 R4 TD 44-51kW[edit]
identification
parts code prefix: 068
engine configuration & engine displacement
inline four-cylinder (R4/I4) turbodiesel; 1,588 cubic centimetres (96.9 cu in); bore x stroke: 76.5 by 86.4 millimetres (3.01 in × 3.40 in), stroke ratio: 0.89:1 - undersquare/long-stroke, 391.1 cc per cylinder, compression ratio: 23.0:1
cylinder block & crankcase
grey cast iron; five main bearings
cylinder head & valvetrain
two valves per cylinder, each with two concentric valve springs, 8 valves total, shim-adjustable bucket tappets, timing belt-driven single overhead camshaft (SOHC)
aspiration
Garrett or Kühnle, Kopp & Kausch (KKK) turbocharger, cast aluminium alloy intake manifold, cast iron exhaust manifold
fuel system
timing belt-driven Bosch mechanical distributor injection pump, indirect fuel injection into whirl chamber
EWG-rated motive power & torque outputs, application and ID codes
45 kilowatts (61 PS; 60 bhp) — Volkswagen Industrial Motor (68A: 04/83-08/88), (686: 03/89-12/90)
50 kilowatts (68 PS; 67 bhp) — Volkswagen Industrial Motor (68C: 04/83-03/94)
DIN-rated motive power & torque outputs, ID codes
51 kilowatts (69 PS; 68 bhp) @ 4,500 rpm; 133 newton metres (98 lbf·ft) @ 2,600 rpm — CY, JR
51 kilowatts (69 PS; 68 bhp) @ 4,500 rpm; 138 newton metres (102 lbf·ft) @ 2,500 rpm — JX
applications
Audi 80 (CY: 02/82-03/87), Volkswagen Golf (CY: 8/81-7/84, JR: 08/83-10/91), Volkswagen Jetta (CY: 8/81-7/84, JR: 12/83-10/91), Volkswagen Passat (CY: 8/81-4/88), Volkswagen Type 2 (JX: 8/84-7/91), Volkswagen Type 2 Syncro (JX: 8/85-7/92)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_discontinued_Volkswagen_Group_diesel_engines#Four-cylinder_EA111_diesels
www.clubvw.org.au/vwengines
I was told from the guy I got it from that it was out of a 1985 Passat but the date on the rod bearings say its an 1987? Thanks for all that info!
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#40
by
96_yota
on 09 Sep, 2015 18:19
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#41
by
Dakotakid
on 09 Sep, 2015 21:47
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Say.....this looks pretty darned good coming apart. I was so curious about all this.
That front int. shaft bearing being in that good of shape should yield even wear on the crank bearings as well.
Someone did not over-tighten that cam belt (front int. bearing not destroyed) and someone also tended to change oil! cool. When you said this was a Craigslist or whatever engine, I was expecting the worst. Glad to see something far better than carnage. Congrats, dude.
As far as the Bentley I suggested, it would give you torque specs and discussion on required clearance at the top of the valve stems (after cutting the seats and fitting new valves) to ensure adequate room for the hydro lifters to work properly. BUT, as I look at those valves in the head, they appear to be the oem valves based on the little dot on the intakes and smooth on the exhausts. My guess, is that the seats have never been cut after leaving the factory. THAT is good news as fitment of new valves and adequate clearance above the valve should be no prob.
A Bentley which covers hydro engines would help, BUT, you can probably get by without by conversing with someone who is familiar with these. I think there is Bentley stuff on the internet somewhere. If you need scans of some pages for info, feel free to pm me....my scanner works.
You're a new guy here. But, you are an attentive and seemingly bright guy and THAT is refreshing. Very refreshing.
Lastly, years of buying parts has taught me that autohausaz.com is generally where you get the best prices on most of the parts you will need. Unless you have some sort of in-house connection. The Phoenix seller (listed) does not always have everything...but, they do pretty well. For some reason, their int. med. shaft bearings are not easy to find....but, they do have them. You just need the original VW part number to get them.
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#42
by
96_yota
on 10 Sep, 2015 07:22
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It looked pretty clean coming apart. No deep scratches on the crank/no discolored caps. I'm going to take the crank to my machine shop when I talk with them and make sure it doesn't need to be turned, then I'll start collecting parts. Probably just going to punch it out to 1mm and order new pistons (any recommendations on a piston set?).
Plan on shot peeing/polishing the rods, ARP main and head studs, new oem rod/main bearings, 1mm over pistons, balance the rotating assembly, port the head, replace to two pre chambers that are cracked, valve job, check the springs and replace if needed, new valve seals and guides.
That should get me back to a good longblock that should last me years. Are there any places to send off the injectors and have them rebuilt? Any upgraded nozzles out there that could be done while getting rebuilt? The injection pump looks very clean and may even be newish, anyway to check this?
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#43
by
libbydiesel
on 10 Sep, 2015 08:44
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IMO you should not have the crank turned. If you do, you lose the factory hardening. Most crankshafts are totally within spec and if it is not, then find a replacement that is. Usually the only thing needed aside from polish is a sleeve on each seal surface.
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#44
by
Dakotakid
on 10 Sep, 2015 11:23
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He's exactly correct on the crank info ^. These cranks are very nice.
Earlier, I pointed you in the direction of big pistons. But, here is the link:
http://qualitygermanautoparts.com/Look under diesel components to find them. He has other pieces/parts as well. Generally, you can get the other components for less money at Arizona. However, you will be paying for freight on the pistons anyway....so, he might be able to include other parts for not much freight.
This place is one of the few places to sell 4th over and they just happen to be the best price you will find, too. Kolbenschmidt rings are very hard rings (moly?) compared to Goetze rings. But, the KS rings last a l-o-n-g time under most conditions. KS rings also tend to use some oil.....but, what the hey?
If that block does not need "punching," I would NOT be in a big hurry to go that route. But, your measurements will tell that tale. It is just that a block which gets to 4th over is....well, toward the end of it's life and there is no turning back. Plus, as I stated earlier, 4th over rings are hard to find.
