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Engine rebuilding tips

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myke_w:
bump

Smokey Eddy:
My engine rebuild tip is to never forget any bearings & seals.
As for intermediate shaft seals & ebarings I reccomend checking the clearance for the bearings before changing them. they may still be within specifications BUT they are extremely vital. If they don't look brand new - replace them.

Also, always remember that the rod & main bolts are torque to yield.

Another good rebuild tip is that an oil pan baffle can be had for very cheap and is an extremely easy piece of insurance to install.

Always prime the engine periodically even while rebuilding to prevent errosion with everything exposed. Fresh bores can surface rust very quickly especially in a coastal location.

Compressed air is always a good idea to blast your bottom and top ends with before install and all mating surfaces need to be surgically clean to ensure no leaks on that ever so monumental start up!

lastly, never run new bearings or rings on synthetic oil. The surfaces need to wear to mate fully against each other. Switch to synthetic after a couple thousand Km.

If you've got a lot of money invested in your build another good thing to do (very cheap piece of insurance again) is to change the oil and filter after the engine has ran for only a couple hours to make sure no machining dust or fillings damage the parts.
for the price of 4L of conventional oil and an $8 bosch filter it's never a bad idea.

HarryMann:
Redline Assy Compound (red paste in tub)

Brill stuff...

rs899:

--- Quote ---Also, always remember that the rod & main bolts are torque to yield.
--- End quote ---

Always remember not to use absolutes ;D.  Sorry Smokey Eddy, the older engines ( Mk1) do not have torque to yield rod or main bolts or crank pulley bolts either.  In fact, I don't think there's a torque to yield bolt anywhere on my Mk1 Caddy....  That's not to say that it's not worth replacing 30 year old stressed parts that can blow up your engine, if you have the bread, and can find new stuff that you are sure is better than the old stuff...

fatmobile:
Hey, bumping up an old post.

As some know the main bearing sets come with 4 flat bearings and
6 with an oil hole and groove.

Well there are only 5 mains so that grooved bearing has to fit in one of the caps.
 
 I'm rebuilding an engine and while putting the main bearings in,
there is the old question of where the grooved main cap bearing goes.
 It seems like 2,3,4 and 5 mains supply oil to the rods through a hole in the crank.
 While #1 supplies no oil to a rod.
 
And I remember Jack, the former vwdieselparts.com owner and engine rebuilder,
telling me the grooved one goes on #1.
 
 I looked at the MK2 bentley page 41 picture of the oil passageways
and the idea that the #4 main bearing somehow supplies oil to the head
doesn't seem like any more than a rumor.

 It almost seems like VW intended for the rod to start getting oil pressure halfway down the downstroke
 and halfway back up.
 Before the flat cap bearing acted like a check valve at the top of the stroke
 to keep oil from being pushed back toward the main when it fires.

 I'm pretty sure I'm going to use the 2 grooved main bearings on #1
unless someone can convince me otherwise.
 
 

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