Tools needed to pull an AAZ? - page 1 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Tools needed to pull an AAZ? by RunninWild on 27 Jul, 2015 23:17
• I just found an AAZ Locally from a 97 jetta I'm going to be pulling next weekend. Is there anything special I'd need to pull it, or any procedure I'd have to fallow? I'm assuming I can just disconnect the fuel lines disconnect any wiring then just unbolt the tranny then the motor mounts and out it comes? Is there anything else from the car worth grabbing? Its going in my samurai so I cant really think of anything else I should grab other then the glow plug relay and fuel filter and some of the exhaust...
  
  
• #1 by libbydiesel on 27 Jul, 2015 23:43
• Other than the typical tools, I'd want an engine hoist.  You might want some backup plan for dealing with rounded out rusted off exhaust fasteners.  A hose clamp tool helps. 
• #2 by RunninWild on 28 Jul, 2015 00:19
• I got a cordless grinder so rusted bolts souldnt be a problem. The seller is arranging an engine hoist.  Are there any special hex or torx bolts I might run into or would a standard metric socket set cover me? I'm assuming there'll be 4-8 bolts on the bell housing, then 4-8 bolts for the mounts and it should more or less come right out after the cooling, electrical and fuel have been disconnected? Shouldn't take much longer then an hour if I rush it eh?
• #3 by theman53 on 28 Jul, 2015 00:54
• The main thing I hate dealing with are the CV axles. Even if you plan pulling the engine only they still need to come out to give you room. I don't think you will have enough room to pull the engine with the trans still sitting there, is what I am saying.
  
  It should take longer than that even if you could pull it right out, unless the car is going to scrap.
• #4 by RunninWild on 28 Jul, 2015 01:01
• Car is going to scrap so no need to be "clean" with the uninstall. If I need to pull the tranny are the CV's a huge pain? There are just secured by snap rings and should pull out with a decent amount of force eh? Would I be able to unbolt the tranny from its mounts and just lift and wiggle the engine free? Its been a while since I've pulled an engine from a front wheel drive vehicle, I forgot how little room there is in the engine bays to move everything apart.
• #5 by vanbcguy on 28 Jul, 2015 02:10
• Yank the engine and trans together. The trans is worth a little. The CV bolts on mine came out surprisingly easy compared to all the stories I've heard on here. A grinder to pop the heads off if they fight you wouldn't be a bad thing.
  
  The battery and power steering reservoir will be slightly in your way and both take about 90 seconds to remove, well worth doing.
  
  The front grille / headlight / radiator support assembly takes about 20 minutes to remove (remember all the small bolts holding the inner fenders on) and can make life a lot easier. Not totally necessary but nice to have out of the way.
• #6 by vanbcguy on 28 Jul, 2015 02:12
• Oh yeah grab the instrument cluster, it's worth about $60 and takes less than 15 minutes to yank.
• #7 by air-cooled or diesel on 28 Jul, 2015 05:51
• Quote from: RunninWild on 27 Jul, 2015 23:17

  I just found an AAZ Locally from a 97 jetta I'm going to be pulling next weekend. Is there anything special I'd need to pull it, and fuel filter
  

  screw his fuel filter, take it, and buy a new 1 from napa
  1 thing, the inlet/clear fuel line, Dont disconnect from fuel pump
• #8 by TylerDurden on 28 Jul, 2015 09:42
• Engine and tranny together is easier, imo. I'd plan for 4 hrs and take my time.
  
  The inner CV flange bolts have the triple-square socket heads (XZN) a small set of those is about 12 bux at the parts store. If they are rounded out, some guys pound a torx into the hole.
• #9 by homerj1 on 02 Aug, 2015 17:11
• This probably doesn't pertain to your situation, but I've had great success with dropping the whole front crossmember with the  engine, trans, and whole front suspension\steering assembly. Although I've had access to a 2 post car hoist doing the above. 
  
  Then I can take my time, with lots of access taking the drivetrain apart. 
• #10 by RunninWild on 02 Aug, 2015 17:53
• Yeah were gonna be in a backyard with a basic engine hoist. Thinking I'm gonna just cut the axles if they dont pop out easy then just cut any wiring or anything in the way out. I dont think its going to take too long hopefully.
• #11 by burn_your_money on 02 Aug, 2015 23:20
• Take your time and do it right when it comes to the axles. You'll probably spend more time monkeying around with them then you would just removing them the proper way. I'd cut the downpipe off by the cat. You'll need 36" of extension to get to the bolts on the CVs easily. Pound the bit into each one and they should all come out easy. I've only had to clean the dirt out of a few in order to get them off. You'll need someone to step on the brakes while you loosen the CV nuts. Remember to remove the 30mm axle nuts while the car is on the ground.
  
  Bring good wire cutters and hose cutters and just cut all the wires/hoses after unscrewing the big round connecter (T124 I think) on the head.
  
  I usually disconnect the power steering pump and leave it in the car.
• #12 by RunninWild on 03 Aug, 2015 00:57
• Are the cv's just bolted on? There not the kind with snap rings that need to be pried out and can be a huge pain? If thats the case it shouldnt be a big deal getting them off, and like i said if it comes down to it I can just cut them.
  
  I'm gonna take the ps pump but I'll just cut the lines off if there giving me any trouble...
• #13 by vanbcguy on 03 Aug, 2015 13:05
• The PS pump lines should be easy to disconnect, one is just a worm clamp while the other is a large banjo bolt. They won't fight you.
  
  Yes, the CV joints are bolted on, it's just a triple square bit. I think sometimes folks mess around with Allen bits or Torx bits and make a mess of things - triple square work really well and are designed to have the least chance of stripping PROVIDED THE BIT IS PROPERLY ENGAGED. Which is why folks keep mentioning cleaning things and tapping the bit in to the bolts with a hammer.
• #14 by RunninWild on 03 Aug, 2015 14:31
• Are those the same type of sockets used on the head bolts? If so I have a basic metric set laying around somewhere. Any idea what size it is so I'll know ahead of time if i have the right one?