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#15
by
urmas
on 17 Dec, 2015 04:44
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The right part has been broken off unfortunately. I used a spanner to hold it down while loosening the cam nut and the spanner slid out and loaded up just that corner of the cam slot which broke then off. I fished it out and theres not much of a damage, just the surface that holds a block plate is less now and the cam lock tool is needed to lock it precisely.
Found the culprit:
I am using one non standard screw for securing the pump and it hit the pulley of the pump.
Here are visible metal shavings on the tip of the screw which is too long.
Funny thing is, the pump hub moves in axial direction when its turned. That is why the sprocket turned a bit and then locked up - it moved closer to the screw.
I dont think its supposed to do that? Probably means the pump is worn out.
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#16
by
urmas
on 17 Dec, 2015 15:48
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Got an improvised tool and set the cam in place. The cam was off by a tooth.
Also found out the pulley screws are hitting the pump housing (upper rectangular part), so i shortened those and put washers underneath so they don't protrude much.
Timed the pump at 1.40 mm in a way i understand it should be done, but im not sure i have the pump firing for 1st cylinder when it should.
Cranked it quite for some time but failed to get fuel at the injectors, that tends to happen when the pump has been dry too long, gonna drag it arround tomorrow, that will fill her up for sure
At this point its just timing and the accelerator cable fabing, and i hope it doesn't grenade when it fires up
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#17
by
410
on 17 Dec, 2015 22:11
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Sounds like you're close! You could prime the pump by removing the "out" bolt and filling the pump manually. Reinstall the out bolt and crack a couple hard lines at the injectors and it should light up.
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#18
by
urmas
on 18 Dec, 2015 13:05
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Success!
After dragging it around there was still no sign of life, so i cracked injection lines open and air came hissing out with fuel / tiny bubble mix. A few crank / open lines cycles and the system was bled and the engine came to life. Stable idle, no smoke clouds, just after a few seconds i started noticing bluish tone when looking toward light, thats probably an indication the timing could be advanced a bit, as its at 1.40 before i got it running.
Gonna do another measurement after i fab a throttle cable bracket from the old pump bracket and probably advance a bit more. Would love to have a EGT probe installed by this moment though.
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#19
by
MurielSiny
on 14 Jan, 2016 05:06
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O nice, i love 262s. I have both these variants in the stash, but different kits. I will be looking forward to this build.
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#20
by
urmas
on 20 Jan, 2016 04:07
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Backed down to 1.25 timing, engine sounds a bit smoother, the car runs great, apart from not heating up much, but i figure thats due to the low weight it has to carry arround.
Next to do:
put on a lower engine cover (covering the bottom of engine bay), i have laying arround from a Mk3, and an IC from a G60 Corrado.
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#21
by
urmas
on 04 Feb, 2016 01:34
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Not much has been done to tha car yet, the things i mentioned in the previous post are still waiting for me to free up time. Ignition switch died, so i swapped that and im trying to track down a metallic tick which i suspect the injectors of (after LR pump install noise got louder). I swapped out nr. 2 injector but the noise remains, so probably nr. 3 is the culprit. Im trying to find it by ear (put a screwdriver against the injector), but for most of the time they sound all the same.
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#22
by
urmas
on 05 Feb, 2016 01:37
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Got my hands on a different 3rd injector at the breakers and installed it.
The sound got different and the behaviour of it changed aswell, its also less ocurring. Probably safe to say, the noise comes from worn out 3rd injectors. At this point its very tempting to just replace it with a non electronic injector because i have one good spare now, but im not sure what to do with the fuel line at the moment.
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#23
by
vanbcguy
on 05 Feb, 2016 01:52
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No real reason to take the electronic one out and replace it with a standard one. All it has is an extra coil of wire in the top, doesn't cost anything extra to get them serviced or anything.
I'd highly recommend sending your injectors in to get new nozzles installed and to have them calibrated. Mech TDIs are more sensitive to nozzle imbalances than the electronic ones as there's no compensation without the ECU. If you have a bad nozzle that's streaming at a piston it can do some pretty serious damage and you've already demonstrated that the injectors you have aren't the happiest.
Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk
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#24
by
urmas
on 05 Feb, 2016 03:02
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Youre definately right. I will ask arround for estimates, as the last thing i want to do, is damage an engine which i consider being low mileage.
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#25
by
urmas
on 11 Mar, 2016 07:38
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It wouldnt be me if I would follow a sensible advice
Yesterday i swapped out the injector - i carefully bent the third line in place, but the fourth had to be slightly relocated aswell.
Engine is much smoother, also on startups below +3 C it started on three cylinders and stayed that way for a few seconds. Glad this problem is out of the way now.
At some point i will send the injectors to get tested tho as increasing horsepower without calibrating them would be too silly even for me.
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#26
by
urmas
on 24 Mar, 2016 03:45
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Clutch has started slipping inevitably, so im looking for a CTN or ASD box to replace the 020 4T i have at the moment. That will also cure the 3rd and 4th gear problems i have currently.
I am going to use a flywheel and clutch assembly from a G60 Corrado which i have already.
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#27
by
urmas
on 04 Apr, 2016 08:15
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First weekend results: tore down everything and managed to install the B4 shifter.
This is quite a bigger job than i thought it would be. There's also a problem of torn steering rack boot and stuck clutch cylinders.
Tried to wrestle the replacement B3 pedal cluster in place but the steering column is in the way and its riveted (!) to the chassis for whatever reason. Was too tired yesterday to continue.
Progress so far:
B4 shifter installed
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#28
by
urmas
on 03 May, 2016 00:25
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Most things to do in the engine bay are finished, i even managed to do a test drive, even though theres no carpet and dash in the car. May 4th is Independence day over here so probably ill finish it tomorrow.
Clutch bleed is such a pain!
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#29
by
vanbcguy
on 03 May, 2016 18:50
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Easiest way I've seen to do the clutch is the "oil can method" - basically a pressure bleed from the slave cylinder pushing back to the master.
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