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Urms mTDI build
by
urmas
on 21 Jul, 2015 08:23
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Parts are slowly piling up, no time to put them on though.
Got also correct manifolds as I am using 1.6td manifolds at this moment. To make matters worse the 1.6 exhaust manifold has both outside runners cooked to a half of the original diameter with oil residue, that probably is one of the reasons current performance is so low. These will go on the engine before the LR pump.
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#1
by
urmas
on 22 Jul, 2015 03:11
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Much needed seat upgrade:
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#2
by
urmas
on 03 Aug, 2015 00:49
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Currently in the process of swapping manifolds.
After a days work new manifolds are on, just need to connect downpipe and intake plumbing.
Manifolds look nice once you give them a lil cleaning:
Pic of the dark side of the moon (i dont have a lift)
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#3
by
urmas
on 05 Aug, 2015 03:55
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Manifold swap is finished, and theres a slight power increase in mid rpms, aswell as turbo spools a litle faster, which is good, but top end stays the same, as is boost pressure (i have to get quite high in rpms to see 6 psi).
Im fearing that im loosing boost pressure somewhere and the most obvious place for an old k24 would be the wastegate.
Still, if a leak would be the case, wouldnt there be lots of smoke?
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#4
by
libbydiesel
on 05 Aug, 2015 10:38
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The K24 wastegate can stick open or the wastegate valve seat very commonly gets quite corroded. You can return it to full function by removing it and using valve lapping paste to hand lap the wastegate valve into the seat. Removing the wastegate can be a real pain. I use a bit and a 6pt box wrench. Heat helps.
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#5
by
urmas
on 10 Aug, 2015 03:38
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So far ive removed the turbo only to find the wastegate securing screws seized to hell. I also have to remove the hot side to gain access to one of the screws. Way more difficult than i thought it will be.
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#6
by
libbydiesel
on 22 Aug, 2015 02:17
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When I said removing the wastegate can be a real pain I meant it. I've done it on quite a few k24 and k14 turbos and know exactly what you are going through.
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#7
by
urmas
on 08 Sep, 2015 04:56
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Well, the long and painstaking process is over.
Everything was seized and cooked in to hell on the turbo - the hot side had to be broken free with a 2 metres long bar, wastgate screws had to be cut off, the valve inside the wastegate was seized and had to be hammered out. Everything has been cleaned and assembled now, and the car is driveable again. No improvement whatsoever though.
The valve seat had some considerable damage, but my diy grinding compounds could not remove any material from the valve or its seat. After grinding both are quite clean though.
Im almost at the point I could slap on the LR pump now, but I cant decide if I should add the intercooler first - stock mk3 td intercooler i got for dirt cheap.
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#8
by
urmas
on 15 Dec, 2015 15:36
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Finally found some time and started switching pumps. Progress so far, after two evenings:
Yesterday i tore everything apart, including a small piece from the cam (wrong thing to use as block off plate, and a small chip from the blocking keyway broke off). Today switched most things from the JR pump to the LR pump and managed to fit it, aswell as the fuel lines and sprocket hub. Tomorrow probably gonna finish whats left, put cambelt on, time it and give it a try.
Any ideas what timing setting to start with? Got the tool, so should it be a breeze.
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#9
by
urmas
on 16 Dec, 2015 14:44
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Could not time the engine tonight...after two hours of trying again and again i quit.
Despite cam position looking alright, the engine locks up.
Need to buy that damn tool.
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#10
by
urmas
on 16 Dec, 2015 15:58
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Cam position locked with a spanner + gap measure bit for keeping down clearances
Crank position
And still no go. What i do see in the picture, is the cam could be turned counter clockwise a few degrees.
I cant see that with my naked eye though.
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#11
by
vanbcguy
on 16 Dec, 2015 16:40
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Your cam and crank timing are close enough that you shouldn't have interference though yeah it certainly is out a bit. Are you sure you aren't just fighting compression?
Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk
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#12
by
410
on 16 Dec, 2015 19:57
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Might be a silly question but are you removing the wrench before you turn it over? I thought it's worth mentioning because I've done it myself so its happened at least once.
Can you take a pic of the crank sprocket? That might not be the right timing mark on the flywheel.
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#13
by
urmas
on 17 Dec, 2015 00:24
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Are you sure you aren't just fighting compression?
Don't think its compression, its as almost it stops with a click - metal to metal contact.
Yes, i am removing the wrench. I have used this mark on the flywheel on several occasions, so its kinda "proven".
If i don't get get any progress with the toll, ill pull the pass side wheel and remove the pulley above it to check it.
Ill see if i there's someone with the tool local and borrow it today.
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#14
by
libbydiesel
on 17 Dec, 2015 00:53
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That cam slot looks terrible. It looks like the part in the right side of the pic is worn and the part on the left is the original machined surface. That original machined surface should be inline with the head/lock and in the pic it is not. If my interpretation is correct it looks like the cam is rotated CW in the pic or opposite the normal running direction as the pic is of the back of the cam. I don't know that it's far enough off to cause the piston and valves to collide, but I wouldn't be happy with that setting.