Swap to larger injectors

[rodpaslow]

I've just had time to swap in a cheap SDI intake and larger injectors (hflox .25 for original 1Z).  This car has a 2052 turbo in it - it was pretty fast at pump maxed out the the original injectors. 

The one thing I'm not 100% sure about re-stetting the pump for these injectors (not worried about smoke amount) is how much to turn the fuel up to?  Basically turn it up so when the turbo is doing it's thing it's mostly cleared up the smoke out of the exhaust?

Any tips anyone might have?
Thanks

[rodpaslow]

I seem to have a problem now since the swap - I'd like to confirm what the problem might be.

I have a low idle - about  750 rpm, I can fix that as I think the idle spring just needs an adjustment / change as I have other from AAZ I might try a different spring if adjusting spring doesn't help.

Main problem is anything above 2800 rpms it's starts to do something, almost seems like it's missing or shuddering, not sure what the right term is but it seems like its starting to miss.  I had backed the fulling off full - about 2 turns and it was doing something like that even a bit at idle, so I turned the fueling up about 1/2 turn from full and idle seems good, but hasn't helped above 2800. (seems louder knock than with old injectors, but much, much smoother running).

I get very little boost - only about 10 psi when I try to get on it-some smoke, but not like it should be, and shuddering starts.

I have the pump advanced at max - it's got land rover internals in a AAZ housing, land rover cover with boost unit - I checked and it's set at about 1.400.

Would retarding the pump from this help - new injectors would/should have proper breaking pressure (1Z/AHU) from the old injectors (had them done by Giles)? 

[vanbcguy]

Are you sure you're not getting fuel starvation? 

[rodpaslow]

It shouldn't be, i have the original pump (was a gasser) in the tank and a regulator in the engine bay to bring fuel pressure down to a useable pressure.  It supplies a steady stream to the injector pump.  I did some changes to the placement of it when I replaced the intake manifold.  I guess that will be something to check and make sure I'm getting sufficient supply yet.

My other car has the same setup with a 1.6TD, last fall I had fuel supply problems with it, but it would start loosing power I slow down it would idle and then die.  And would be very hard to start.  The fuel pump had given up the ghost and had to change that on that car.  This Mtdi doesn't act like that. Starts immediately.  But I will check fuel supply anyway.

[vanbcguy]

Bingo. Lots of folks have had issues with the stock feed pump restricting fuel flow. It's a high pressure pump but it doesn't provide enough volume to supply a VE pump I'd bet. At high revs there is a LOT of fuel passing through the injection pump and back down the bypass.  While it is nice to have you shouldn't actually need a lift pump.

[ORCoaster]

Perhaps removing it from its place in line as a test might be in order?  Volume is key here not pressure. 
 

[libbydiesel]

You could temporarily run from a can to see if it is a supply issue.

[rodpaslow]

It only seems to do it  badly when cold now.  I hate to have to remove the pump as it's nice to have when priming it.  With larger injectors, these are .25, how much volume is needed - just wondering if the stock fuel line is sufficient? 

Car seems much louder now,  I backed off the timing a bit and seems to have helped slightly - have you, other members that have gone to bigger injectors noticed the same?
(not so much louder inside driving, with spring I drive sometimes with the window down a bit, just seems really loud).

I also have boost issues that may be related to fuel, above.  Max pressure seem to be 13-14 psi.  It's a brand new gt2050 wastegate turbo, may have remove boost line from wastegate and see if that changes anything.  Pump fuel screw is maxed out.  I don't see a lot of excess smoke. 

How can I test to see if the pressure pump isn't supplying enough - it only happens at about 3/4 pedal above 2500 rpm or so?  Dis-connect it from the tank?

[libbydiesel]

Larger injectors shorten the injection event for a similar amount of fuel.  The shorter injection event results in more noise/clack.

[rodpaslow]

I think this weekend i will pull the top off and fix idle speed, that will help idle klack/noise.

Would a permanent extra holder like a can of somekind makeup for shortfalls with the pump volume.  When it was short it would pull from the can otherwise be happy with the pressure and volume from the pump.  I hate the idea of screwing with the fuel tank as I did that with my 1.6TD and ended up going back to the pump that was already there.

How much extra volume would be necessary.  The only times I floor it would be accelerating on to speed and where I live, lets just say its flat.

[rodpaslow]

I checked the volume of fuel from the pump, flow is fine.  I used a yellow diesel can, best I could tied to the front of the car (put a hole in the cap to feed pump of a diesel can) and I couldn't detect a noticeable difference.

I took off the top of the pump a couple times as I wanted to increase idle from the ~750 rpms it was at (by my in car tach - double checked with an electronic tach).  I had it at about 1100 rpm the first time - the rpms would vary because I think the intermediate spring was fighting against the idle springs.   Second time is about 950 - which is still a bit high.

Could the shortage of fuel/boost be the aneroid?

[rodpaslow]

[rodpaslow]

Lever that centers on M1

[rodpaslow]

Is there a way to test it - pull the grooved pin and (engine off) and move to full throttle should test if the pin is stuck, of if it comes out should tell me if it's working okay?

[410]

Is there a way to test it - pull the grooved pin and (engine off) and move to full throttle should test if the pin is stuck, of if it comes out should tell me if it's working okay?

That's exactly what I do.  Pull the LDA pin out and move the throttle lever to full fuel and measure how far the pin inside the LDA pushes out.  I use the shank side of drill bits to see how far the pin has moved out into the bore.  Then I pull the top off the pump and manually move the lever that pivots on M1 and measure again with drill bits to see how far the pin is pushed into the bore.  If the pin can move into the bore farther manually than that's not the problem.